Tag Archives: Laguna Bacalar

Saving The Planet

20 Jan

Part of the reason for moving to Mexico from the US in 2013 was to live a simple life and shrink our environmental footprint. I wanted to be completely off grid, but Lisa wanted electricity and wouldn’t hear of it. She rarely puts her foot down so we installed electricity.

However we do do our part in many other ways.

We compost. In the US 35 million tons of food waste ends up in landfills annually.

A major contributor to greenhouse gases.

Our little compost pile doesn’t take up much space. It is situated directly outside the side door for easy access. We had to put a cover on it to keep a certain “always starving”pug out but what we didn’t expect was the lizards. Any sunny afternoon there are several sunbathers sitting on the lid. I think the gnats that are attracted to the food waste provide a yummy smorgasbord for our little friends. There’s at least one regular. We call her Lizzy.

When we have dinner leftovers, they go into dogfood. Absolutely nothing goes into the trash.

No food waste at our house. Stela and Luna do their part.

When the house was designed, we included a rain collection system. It made no sense to me to live in the tropics with a large roof and not collect rainwater. The softer water is better for the house and garden. We angled the roof slightly to collect runoff during the rainy season. We just had the pump rebuilt and it works like a champ.

Cisterns help when there’s no rain. We also have a well.

We also are not consumers. We maybe have 2-3 pairs of shoes and a very simple wardrobe. After all, Mexico is the chancla capital of the world.

Few people even wear shoes.

Last Fall we bought a new car. I really thought we could use public transportation and survive with one vehicle. As with most of the world it’s difficult to live without cars. We did however buy a hybrid. In Mexico in the seventies I travelled all over the country by bus and train. Boy have times changed.

We want to vacation around Mexico without flying. Nissan Kicks E-Power

There is little recycling in Bacalar. We all know that recycling is a ruse by the producers of plastic anyway. We shop locally for produce and eat little meat. We carry our cloth shopping bags and tell shop owners, “no queremos plástico” when they try to give us bags. We do the best we can to be aware.

Don’t get me wrong, I don’t believe my compost pile will save the planet. That’s the job of government and industry. I will however do my part.

DOS TORTAS

Harvesting our own bananas.

Medical Care Mexico

13 Jan

In 2018 my mother-in-law fell coming down our stairs and broke her right wrist. This week she broke her left.

2018 fall required pins and surgery.

Alice lives near us and when she called this week in obvious distress, Lisa was at her door in less than a minute. As near as we can figure, she stood up quickly and blacked out. She hit her arm against the couch and dislocated her wrist and broke a bone.

Alice’s little house on our property.

The hospital is about a forty minute drive. We called our doctor Oscar to give him a heads up and Lisa and Alice left for the emergency room about nine pm. The amazing thing is that they were home and Alice was in her bed by two o’clock! Yes, you heard me right, five hours including the drive.

Oscar notified the emergency room staff and they were waiting. A team wheeled her into x-ray, they then knocked her out, and set the bone. She has a cast and an appointment to return. The nurses, technicians and traumatologist were loving, gentle and efficient. My friend in Texas pays steeply for “concierge” medicine. Here in Mexico it’s business as usual.

Bet you wish he were your doctor? Smart and gorgeous.

Let me make one thing clear, our doctor and care is at a private hospital. Lisa, Alice and I have excellent health insurance in the states that we rarely use. We pay totally out of pocket in Mexico. The bill you ask?

About $1200 US, which includes medication and follow up visits.

A bit drugged but behaving herself.

We feel very blessed. Now if we can just get all three of us well at the same time.

DOS TORTAS

A Simple Life In The Tropics? Mmmm

6 Jan

It’s been relatively quiet in the jungles of southern Mexico this week. Lisa and her mom were both sick, cough, sore throat and other symptoms I won’t share. I don’t know if it’s my genes or what, but I seldom get sick. On the whole we do pretty well. We try to take turns with our maladies.

Alice , me and Lisa Costa Rica 2019

While walking the dogs one day this week I discovered an enormous pile of garbage dumped on the highway near the turnoff to our property. I learned that a double tractor trailer flipped in the early morning hours leaving its load behind. What an eyesore! I will talk to our neighbors and see what if anything can be done. The pile is mostly bottles and concrete. Mexico is large enough to hide its trash. How inconsiderate to leave it out in the open! Perhaps they can incorporate it into the Mayan Train somehow.

The sign in the corner belongs to the new hotel across from us. I can’t imagine they’ll allow this mess to stay here.

Next there was water leaking on the floor of our garage. Finding a reliable plumber has been a challenge. The Mayan Train and resulting hotel construction has sucked up skilled laborers. I spent days getting no responses or asking “do you know anyone else?” I’ve found that who you know and who THEY know can sometimes get you the help you need.

Pump from our rain collection system was hauled off for maintenance.

We continue to learn things about living in a tropical environment, even after ten years. For example, any system that we have installed must have regular maintenance duh!, ie electrical, septic, cistern, and basically anything with a pump. Water is hard and calcium clogs the lines. Everything rusts and molds. We plan on installing a water softening system this year which will also require maintenance. Solar is somewhere down the road.

Our house is not airtight. No air conditioning. We wake to birdsong and the rustling of palm trees and the laguna lapping the shore. It’s a trade off but we love our “glamping” lifestyle.

I suppose that’s it for another week in the jungle. Y’all come back now ya hear.

DOS TORTAS

No New Year Resolutions Here

30 Dec

There was a time when I attempted to make New Year’s resolutions. What could be more inviting than a clean slate, and a chance to start new? I’m pretty disciplined and used the wall calendar to note progress. But let’s face it, if it were something that I really wanted to do, I’d already be doing it!

I then found something that worked much better for me. The process not only encouraged gratitude but pride and confidence. And it’s easy!

2023 was a colorful year to say the least.

In a journal or on a simple piece of paper, write 2023. Now over the next few days write down all that you accomplished this past year. Nothing is too small or seemingly inconsequential. Just write it down.

When that is completed, Write on another sheet, 2024. Now note all the things you’d like to accomplish in the upcoming year. Nothing is too fanciful. You can write personal or work accomplishments, trips, or any task you’d like to tackle. Put them all down with little thought or mental argument.

Put the journal away someplace where you’ll find it next year. It could be in with your Christmas decorations or at the back of your daily calendar. There is no need to come up with a game plan, strategy or any additional tactics, of course unless you want to. While it may sound a bit woo-woo, you have planted seeds and set an intention with absolutely no pressure. Voila!

Dreams, desires, goals.

My personal experience has always amazed me. When I review the previous year, I am amazed to find how many of the things on the list I have accomplished. I rarely remember what I even wrote down!

I find it helpful to take stock of my life in a positive no-pressure way. The lists also become a walk down memory lane and are a fun history. Let me know if you give it a try and we’ll check back next year to see how it went.

Wait for it.

DOS TORTAS

Staying Present

23 Dec

I grew up with four brothers. We were not a “touchy feely” family and scattered to the four winds as soon as we reached adulthood. My oldest brother, almost nine years my senior, left home at seventeen to join the military. We spent very little time together after that.

My first Christmas, held by my big brother. 1952

Ken was the black sheep. He was often the brunt of family jokes. During his recent visit to Bacalar I learned quite a lot about him. I’ve always known that he was extremely intelligent. He is painfully smart, we’re talking a human walking encyclopedia smart. And I got a glimpse of how difficult that sort of brain has made his life.

Before our youngest brother was born. Circa 1956

Lisa and I took turns hanging out with him. She had far more patience. I did my best to practice being present and not letting our familial relationship get in the way.

My youngest brother’s wedding.

It was clear that Ken was very glad to be spending time with me. It felt nice to have him see my life. We showed him around our little corner of the globe, ate good food (made by us and at local eateries) and went through photos and movies. We talked family history and shared memories. It was good.

Thanksgiving 2022 Florida USA

I admit that I was nervous about him coming to visit. Not all my childhood memories of growing up with four brothers are good ones. None of us had a perfect childhood and adult sibling relationships can be complicated. He is eighty years old and I’m sorry it’s taken us this long.

Bacalar 2023

DOS TORTAS

Be Careful What You Ask For

17 Dec

Bacalar is beautiful. Our house is a work of art. For ten years we have invited friends and family and shown pictures to entice them to visit. Our motivation has been as much to share this place as it is to see people. Very few have taken us up on the invitation. Maybe one visitor per year for the last ten years. We have been the ones to do the traveling, to Texas, California and Florida.

Laguna Bacalar from our dock.

In October Lisa’s aunt came for two months. Aunt Linda stays with Alice and is no trouble. She is however another person for dinner and the shopping is non stop. The sisters are a duo, heads together, talking old times. They’re like a pair of magpies.

Sisters Linda and Alice and Lisa at the beach in Mahahual.

I dropped Linda at the airport for her return to California and picked up our friends Dan and Lisa. We had a fun-filled two weeks. We dropped them back at the airport and picked up my brother. In the middle of my brother’s visit was Lisa’s 60th birthday.

A small gathering of good friends was a delight.

We have been tour guides, chefs, chauffeurs and entertainers. Nothing makes you appreciate routine like non-stop activity.

So grateful to have my brother visit.
At the Mayan Cultural Museum.

Don’t get me wrong, we have enjoyed every minute. No complaints. Next time however I think we will work on the timing. You’re all welcome to visit, just not at the same time.

DOS TORTAS

We Have Guests!

3 Dec

The year was 2019. You remember 2019, back before the word Covid ever crossed our lips or took up real estate in our brains. Lisa and I went on an epic trip, Miami to Los Angeles through the Panama Canal. While breakfasting on the back deck of the Azamara cruise ship we met Dan and Lisa. Breakfast turned into friendship and we’ve kept in touch ever since.

Panama City off in the distance.

On the cruise, Dan and Lisa looked at pictures of Bacalar and oood and aaahd appropriately and declared that they would come visit. Given our past experience with guests, we gave each other “the look” and wink, wink and said, sure, we’d love to have you.

Staying in Playa del Carmen on our way to Bacalar.

Four years later, they’re here and I can’t believe it. We have a week of show and tell planned. There’s a boat tour of the laguna tomorrow, pyramids, the pirate fort and of course mercados and downtown. For now they’re content with sitting on the roof and taking in the view.

A jungle welcome for guests.

Can you tell we’re excited!

DOS TORTAS

Magical Valladolid MX

25 Nov

We first visited Valladolid in 2014. Time sure does fly. This week I wanted a little getaway and made the four hour drive. Valladolid is in the heart of the Yucatán and was the center of Mayan resistance during the mid 1800’s. These wirey small people fought off the federal government, Spanish, US and pirates with machetes. I gotta give them props.

I love Villadolid’s zocalo (town square), regal cathedral and stately convent. There is a busy mercado, several cenotes (natural pools) and world class pyramids of Ek Balam and Chichen Itza.

Franciscan Convent of San Bernardino, a favorite place for locals.
1545 San Servacio Cathedral

Having been to Valladolid several times, I wasn’t there to join the throngs of tourists but to wander the streets, eat good food and sketch.

Maybe the best veggie burger ever! #yerbabuena
French toast, vegan tacos, capuchino and waffles. All yummy.
While waiting for my breakfast.

I also visited the Casa de Los Venados, House of the Deer. The private 18,000 square foot home/museum of the US art collectors and philanthropists John and Dorianne Venator. This was my third visit. There aren’t sufficient words to describe the gift that the Venators have given to Mexico and the world. There are over 3,000 folk art pieces owned by private citizens.

My first attempt at a slide show!

After three days I was ready to come home to Bacalar. As we head into the holidays, take time to appreciate the beauty that surrounds and the people you love. I appreciate the comments left by readers. Thank you for hanging with me and sharing this bumpy ride called life.

DOS TORTAS

Do I Really Want Friends?

19 Nov

Last week we celebrated the Hindu festival of Diwali around a communal table with people we had just met. I tell myself and whoever will listen that I want more people in my life ie friends. Most of the legacy people that we met in Bacalar when we arrived ten years ago, have aged out, sold their homes and moved on. The community that we thought we were moving into, disintegrated like crumbling Mayan pyramids.

Mayan mask.

I sat at dinner last Saturday between two men. They each sat with their body turned away from me talking to the person on the opposite side. This behavior is something that I’m used to. I find that I am invisible to most men. As an old woman (71), men rarely give me the time of day. As a lesbian too, I do not flirt or dress to please. I’ve given up that game a long time ago.

My attempt at a costume for Diwali.

And then something surprising happened. Terry, to my left, began to engage with me. The man HE had been talking to was flirting with the women at the other end of the table. That left me. We talked, Mayan Train, health, family and diet. He did some mansplaining about things that I was quite knowledgeable about, so I listened.

Jey our chef extraordinaire. Me second on the right.

The evening was enjoyable, although I learned something about myself. I really don’t do well in crowds, even small ones. I disengage or talk to one person at a time. In the past, I’ve made the decision to get to know someone by really going after them, a brunch date or an invitation to our house. And like anything else, sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn’t. I’m about 25% success rate.

Covid allowed me to be a hermit and my friendship muscles have atrophied. I have a gym acquaintance who owns a restaurant in Bacalar and who is willing to host a monthly expat gathering. I’m going to get the word out on social media. We will start in the new year. For me the personal stretch of those underutilized friendship muscles will be to show up and engage. And just maybe I will find a new friend.

DOS TORTAS

The Celebration Of Light

11 Nov

Thanks to Bacalar local and chef extraordinaire Jey Mazumder, Lisa and I had an opportunity to celebrate the Hindu festival of Diwali and partake of an Indian feast among new friends.

A fun time was had by all.

“What is Diwali, the Festival of Lights, and how is it celebrated in India and the diaspora? Diwali is the most important festival of the year in India — and for Hindus in particular. It is celebrated across faiths by more than a billion people in the world’s most populous nation and the diaspora.” Google

Diwali is celebrated differently around the world. It usually lasts a few days and involves house cleaning, lighting candles, and the Goddess of wealth, Lakshmi. In Bacalar we celebrated by eating.

We did not win the costume contest.
The vista for our evening.

It had been raining all day and we appreciated the break to feast and dodge mosquitoes. Happy Diwali to all.

DOS TORTAS

Emilie Vardaman

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