Tag Archives: expat living in Mexico

World Cup For World Peace

21 Jun

When we moved to Mexico in 2013, we didn’t even know what the World Cup was. That changed quickly as life changed quickly in our adopted country and we became fans. Football is more than the Mexican national pastime, it’s THE national passion.

This week, Mexico’s passion spread to the entire world. The world tournament kicked off in Mexico City where El Tri (short for el Tricolor, three colors of the national flag, red, white, and green) beat South Africa by two points. I had traveled to my friend George’s house to watch in his “media room” in a comfy recliner with the largest television I’d ever had the pleasure of watching.

The Azteca Stadium in Mexico City on George’s monster TV.

Mexico’s win against South Africa and then going on to beat South Korea set off a frenzy of celebration like only Mexico can do.

The following story showed up on my FB feed this morning which pens way better than I, the World Cup effect in the US. I must admit, my heart swells seeing the kindness, love and pride that USers have mustered in our painfully broken country. Thank you, football for bringing the world together in ways that I never could have imagined.

DOS TORTAS

I Was Wrong About the World Cup
How the world showed up, fell in love with ordinary America and reminded us why this country is still worth fighting for
by LADY LIBERTIE (Peter Brouwer)

I did not want this World Cup here.

Let me start there, because Lady Libertie must confess her sins before the congregation. I was angry at FIFA for coming to the United States while our country is in this much turmoil. I thought they should have refused. I thought the whole spectacle would be a five-week humiliation reel: foreigners gawking at us, mocking us, getting fleeced by our prices, bruised by our policing, stranded by our transit, and then flying home with fresh evidence that America had finally lost her marbles.

I imagined the worst version of it.

I imagined the world showing up to a country cracking down the middle and saying, “Good Lord, what happened to you people?”

And I was dead wrong.

Because what has unfolded instead is one of the sweetest, strangest, most culture-affirming things I have seen in a long time.

It has not felt like an invasion. It has felt like a great big international sleepover where everybody brought a flag, learned one another’s songs, got sunburned, ate too much, cried at midfield and discovered that America is not only the place they see in disaster clips, shooting headlines, political horror shows and social media sneer-posts.

America is also a Boston bar full of Scots belting out “Take Me Home, Country Roads” like West Virginia had just annexed Glasgow.

America is a Boston police officer juggling a soccer ball while a crowd of international fans loses its entire mind because, for one minute, nobody is performing a culture war. They are just watching a guy in uniform do keepie-uppies in the street, and the whole crowd becomes eight years old.

America is turning Fenway Park into a Scottish annex after Scotland’s first World Cup win in thirty-six years. It is Haitian fans marching from Copley Square, celebrating their country’s first World Cup appearance in fifty years. It is Scottish and Haitian fans dancing together before their teams play each other, because sometimes the point of the contest is not hatred. Sometimes the point is that everybody got here.

America is a German soccer fan named Freddy becoming a folk hero because he came here for the World Cup and fell passionately, hilariously, completely in love with the most ordinary parts of this country. Not the Grand Canyon. Not the Statue of Liberty. Not the official brochure America.

Waffle House.
Taco Bell.
Wendy’s.
Walmart.
Buc-ee’s.
Chili’s during the NBA Finals.

The man went to Waffle House at one in the morning and praised the food, the prices and the friendly staff like he had found a roadside cathedral. (I’ve never been to Waffle House, but that is not the impression I’ve ever gotten about it from social media posts.) He went to Wendy’s and treated the Coca-Cola Freestyle machine like America had handed him the controls to a spaceship. He looked at Buc-ee’s and had the correct reaction, which is: “This is a gas station?” Yes, sir. Yes, it is. Welcome to the republic.

And people loved it because he loved it. That is the part I did not see coming.

I did not expect how much Americans needed to watch other people enjoy America.

Not the empire. Not the oligarchs. Not the political machine. Not the billionaire rot sitting on top of us like a gilded vulture. I mean America. The actual country. The weird, generous, loud, excessive, funny, sincere, over-salted, underfunded, chaotic, open-hearted country where a hotel receptionist gives strangers a ride in the rain so they do not have to walk an hour to a stadium. The country where visiting fans discover ranch dressing, ballparks, gas-station empires, a gallon of milk and the strange civic sacrament of eating food you do not understand in a place you did not plan to love.

There have been moments that feel almost too on the nose. Japanese fans cleaning up the stands after a match in Dallas. The kind of quiet civic grace that makes everyone else look at the floor and think, “Well, now we all have to be better people.” Frenchmen adoring American pastries. Fans from everywhere filling our cities with song instead of contempt. Even the eagle flyovers and Americans of all race, color, gender and creed proudly singing the National Anthem—hand over heart—in the stands before a game. Not as swagger, or bluster. But with tears in our eyes; love for the promise of our country.

It matters because Americans have been force-fed contempt for ourselves for years. Some of it we earned. Let’s not get precious. We have real violence here, real poverty, real cruelty, real corruption, real democratic danger. Nobody needs to put a doily over the rot and call it patriotism. That is not love.

But the opposite is just as dangerous.

A people cannot fight for a country they have been taught only to hate.

You cannot build a democracy out of disgust alone. You cannot defend public life if you no longer believe there is anything public worth defending. You cannot ask people to sacrifice, organize, vote, march, strike, protect one another and hold the line if all they have been given is a picture of America as a scam, a punchline, a crime scene and a lost cause.

So yes, we need the indictment.
But we also need the reminder.

We need to see the world come here and find joy in us. We need to see strangers fall in love with our ordinary. We need to see our cities become meeting places instead of battlegrounds. We need to hear other people sing our songs badly and beautifully. We need to watch them eat our ridiculous food and call it wonderful. We need to remember that culture is not just museums and monuments. It is diners, ballparks, corner bars, street music, gas stations the size of airports and the particular American madness of giving a person one hundred drink options and calling that convenience.

This World Cup has not fixed America. Good grief, no. FIFA did not roll in with a soccer ball and heal the republic. Let us not lose our heads.

But it has done something I did not expect.
It has let us see America loved from the outside.

And sometimes, when you are tired, furious and half-convinced the whole thing is beyond saving, that matters. Sometimes you need to watch a crowd go still for the national anthem and remember why your throat tightens. Sometimes you need to see visitors cheer for our cities, laugh with our people, eat our food and sing our songs before you can feel, again, that this place is not only what has been done to it.

It is also what is still alive in it.
And that’s why we fight.

—Lady Libertie

What Day Of The Week Is It?

24 May

You may or may not have noticed that there was no blog this morning. Dos Tortas needed a break. From travel to having visitors to doctor’s appointments, back to back, well my head is spinning.

The decision has been made that we’re going to Austin for my leg surgery…wait!…what? Yes, I know, whiplash. We’re rearranging our summer plans and getting this party started.

Brunch with local friends is also a break. Lisa stayed home.

Hopefully we can make a surgical appointment for early August. Fingers crossed. Until then, enjoy your weekend.

DT out.

DOS TORTAS

I Didn’t Used To Be So Scared

22 Feb

There was a time when I was fearless, hitchhiking across Mexico in my 20’s, climbing pyramids, swimming underwater into a cave, or staying out all night dancing.

Danskin Triathalon, Austin TX

Maybe it’s because I am now old (this week marks 74 years) and disabled (walking with a cane) that I find myself anxious about the unknown. Whether the world has become a scarier place or I am having trouble with my limitations, I don’t know. Either way, I am ashamed and embarrassed of my fear.

Big Bend on the TX/MX border.

We have tickets on Tuesday to see the one and only Shakira. It’s my birthday and what a way to celebrate, right? We have someone staying with my mother-in-law and a sweet hotel reservation in Merida. And yet I am ready to cancel it all over an unfamiliar concert venue, fear of not finding a taxi, long bathroom lines and staying out most of the night.

Cave exploration, Belize

I have read that writing is cathartic so here I am baring my soul. I know you won’t try to fix me. You might think I’m a little bonkers, but heck I think I’m a LOT bonkers.

Tikal, Guatemala

Thanks for listening, or reading, or whatever it is we do here. I appreciate your support. Writing it down beats lying in bed with tears in my ears (as my dad used to say) any day.

DOS TORTAS

Released in 1952, the year I was born.

I’ve Got Tears in My Ears https://share.google/hMd6hIh5FY4NDWR9M

Hallelujah And Amen

30 Nov

In much of the world, a wedding is quite predictable, the dress, the rings, the cake. When we were invited to the wedding of our Mayan housekeeper Lucero, we jumped at the chance. She is from a postage stamp sized village thirty minutes from Bacalar. It was our fourth wedding in twelve years and they have run the gambit from top shelf to backyard.

Lucero’s dress was stunning and she looked very nervous, like most brides.

This wedding was on a whole different level. Ninety-some percent of Mexico is Christian with most of that Catholic. But not in this area. There are a lot of Mennonites, Jehovah’s Witnesses, Seventh Day Adventists and Pentecostals. We had never been to a Pentecostal wedding.

The first of three preachers.

The wedding started at 6pm on a Thursday. We put on our one “fancy” outfit and prayed that the thunder we heard would not spoil the occasion. The festivities started on time which was no small miracle in Mexico. It was all quite unexpected from there.

The children were adorable and looked at the strangers inquisitively.

The wedding involved standing for most of two plus hours, arms raised, and singing, amen-ing, and hallelujah-ing. Three different preachers tag-teamed to inspire, admonish, and harangue in Spanish. It would have been ok except the volume produced by half a dozen large speakers emitted a sound heard by God themself. I stuffed tissue in my ears but it did not help. We left early.

By the time we left, the seats were filled in. I think the whole town was in attendance.

I hated to leave. It meant so much to Luceto that we would come, and four old white women in a sea of about 200 brown faces did not go unnoticed. The family tried to feed us before we left but our tolerance for bleeding ears was spent.

Lots of sleepy little faces.

There are times that I admire the devotion, enthusiasm, and conviction of religion. My personal spiritual beliefs are quieter and more internal. I am grateful that everyone gets to find their own place, even if it’s not quiet or peaceful but right for them.

DOS TORTAS

No One Would Believe This Week

1 Nov

A few days ago, I shared on FB a video of the Mexican voladores or ceremonial “flyers.” I reminisced of the first time I saw this mesmerizing performance in the mountains of Puebla in central Mexico (1973). It is traditionally performed to bring the rain or ask the gods for anything the village needs. Today, it is tourist entertainment all over Mexico. Pass the hat.

https://share.google/yUG70EmZ9PveNGVHV

Going to Cuetzala, where the tradition originated, was an adventure in itself. Hours on a chicken bus climbing through high, coffee-producing mountains where the locals drank instant Nescafe.

Coffee drying on the roof circa 1973

University students were invited by the local priest to teach English to children in exchange for a cot and a hot.

Lovely old cemetery.
Traditional garb outside the cathedral. People did NOT like their pictures taken.
The Sunday market with locals mixing with outsiders.

One day our little friend group walked to a nearby waterfall. The instructions were to follow “that” path. 👈

Off on an adventure.
We could hear it before we could see it.
Off came the clothes. If there’s water, I’m in it.

My brother read my FB post after I expressed a long-held desire to return to Cuetzala and commented

“You have the time.
You have the means.
Lisa would be up for it.
Go!”

It is so easy to look at someone else’s life and make assumptions. I admit our life looks pretty sweet. I had to laugh at his cavalier instructions as this week was exceptionally insane.

We got solar hooked up, yeah! (After a week of people tromping about).

A tree fell on electrical wires leaving my MIL without electricity for five days. She hadn’t yet been added to our solar system.

Our son in Austin fell and broke  his collarbone.

He is being cared for by family. Trip to Austin averted.

Stella got into it with a neighbor dog and had to go to the vet.

Poor baby. She likely instigated the encounter.
She refuses to say what happened but there were a lot of bloody pawprints.

We were leaving on Thursday to visit Merida for Day of the Dead (DOTD) when our house sitter was picked up by immigration (another story entirely).

Car insurance – we had to renew for one car and discovered we had lapsed for the other. It was a stressful ordeal of multiple phone calls over several days in Spanish even though they say someone speaks English. 

It is not easy to pick up and go, something we didn’t foresee when moving here. No complaints, it just is what it is.

We will get away from hearth and home and DOGS and hopefully get  some great DOTD photos. Until then.

DOS TORTAS

When In Rome

6 Jul

One thing I like about living in Mexico is that I get to ignore most US holidays. I am not an expat that tries to recreate my origin country in Mexico. No backyard barbecue dressed in the american flag for us.

My MIL loves Christmas for the presents of course, so I don’t get to skate past that one. We do manage to keep the decorations and gift giving to a minimum.

Such was not the case at the Fourth of July bash that we attended with our kids in Northern California. The rocking event put on by their friends is in its twenty-third year. The party spills out from the garage, to the driveway and into the street. Food was catered, a disc jockey blasted and kids had much to entertain them.

My grandson was turning blue before his mom could drag him out of the dunk tank.
USers are so subtle.
One cranky child missing.

All in all a good time was had. The Tortas however were in bed before the fireworks 🎆 went off. Thank God for Uber.

DOS TORTAS

Here We Go Again

15 Jun

In 1973 I came to Mexico to participate in a “junior year abroad” college program. I was twenty-one and knew nothing of Mexican history, culture or US/Mexico relations. So the morning I sat with three fellow students on the zocalo in Puebla, sipping cafe con leche and munching unfamiliar breakfast pastries remains fixed in my memory.

The portales in the center of Puebla.

We were newly arrived and felt very grown up experiencing a new and magical world. Across the street was a large park (zocalo) and on the other side of the square, a cathedral.

It was a beautiful day when suddenly everything changed.

From a distance we heard an unrecognizable sound approaching. It grew louder and turned into a ruckus. What at first appeared to be a parade, in actuality was an angry mob banging pots, chanting and dragging an effigy of Uncle Sam hanging by the neck. To say we were terrified is an understatement. The four of us took off running, zig-zagging down side streets and putting distance between us and the protesters. In retrospect we were not in any danger, but of course we didn’t know that.

I have no knowledge of what the protest was about. The US and Mexico have never been the best of friends. It was the time of Richard Nixon, Watergate and gas shortages in the US. I fully expected to return home to a revolution. We all know how that turned out.

Here I am again in Mexico reading about protests in the US and not able to participate. If we were there, Lisa would probably have to lock me in the bedroom to keep this 73 year old woman from joining in. My days of marching against the Vietnam war and participating in university sit-ins are long gone. I’m glad there are others to take up the gauntlet.

I can’t believe our country is again taking to the streets in protest. Past actions helped put an end to the Viet Nam war. This time it’s not just young people protesting. Hopefully the outcome will have results in the ballot box.

Anti-war protesters 1970s. I’m probably in that crowd somewhere

DOS TORTAS

Mexican Markets Make Me Happy

20 Apr

There’s nothing like a Saturday morning spent exploring a little neighborhood mercado. This particular one is a favorite of ours. There are plants blooming, music that makes you want to dance and many food vendors filling the air with their enticing aromas.

From top left, my MIL, a pineapple, bougainvillea and spicy habanero peppers.

One of my favorite things to do is to strike up a conversation with locals. They are so curious about us foreigners and when they find someone who can speak Spanish, the questions come pouring out, especially about current US politics.

My favorite tropical fruit, guanábana aka soursop. Creamy and delicious.
Sweet tamale with raisins.

Sampling this tamale brought happy tears to my eyes. Tamales in the tropics are made in banana leaves. These tamales were advertised as estilo de DF or made in the style of central Mexico, cooked in corn husks. They tasted exactly like the ones my Mexican mama made for me to celebrate my twenty-first birthday in 1973. It’s funny how a taste or smell can take you back.

No market day would be complete without a frenchie. This stunning brindle was a bruiser named Thor or in Spanish Tor.

An abundance of color. Papayas and limes.

My mobility is still limited but this was a great way to test my limitations, A really fun morning.

DOS TORTAS

Time For An Adventure

30 Mar

With the majority of our outings of late to the doctor, dentist and physical therapist, I needed a bit of adventure. The Free Zone is a 28.5 acre duty-free shopping area between Mexico and our neighbor Belize, about 30 minutes from our door. It is known for cheap clothing, alcohol, perfume and household goods from China, Hong Kong and godknowswhere.

I am not a shopper. My current limited mobility isn’t the only thing that keeps me from walking the streets and perusing the aisles. I did however need a few things that I’ve been unable to find in Bacalar and neighboring Chetumal.

I haven’t been to the Free Zone in years, but the last time I bought a handful of gauzy cotton dresses that are great for tropical weather. They’ve all been worn out of existence and turned into rags. Time for replacements. There is also an international grocery store that carries Indian spices and many uncommon things (uncommon to this part of Mexico). I fulfilled my quest to find miso (Japanese) and black salt (Indian).

Three for $10.

I drove into the Free Zone and immediately found a parking space, which is unheard of. I found my dresses and then used a tuk tuk to get around. It beat me trying to maneuver in unfamiliar territory.

20p or $1.00 minimum

The adventure was complete with lunch at a hole-in-the-wall Indian restaurant and google directions back across the Mexican border. A quick once over by immigration and back on the road to Bacalar and an uneventful ride home.

I’m not sure what I ate, but it took some convincing that I didn’t want meat. The dish was very spicy.

We like uneventful.

DOS DORTAS

Culinary Bacalar

9 Mar

The timing of many of the cultural events that happen in Bacalar don’t work for us. I totally understand scheduling performances for the evening. We live in the tropics, and most of the time, IT’S HOT. Waiting for the sun to go down invites breezes. The trouble is, the announcement says, 7pm and nothing gets started until 9. Being the idiots we are, we still show up at 7.

Caribbean Food Festival Starts at 4? Let’s go!
A unique food truck
Hand woven bags.
How’s this for grilling pineapple?

Besides the crowd and too much walking for me, it was good to get out, try something new, and be home before dark.

Welcome to Bacalar

DOS TORTAS

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