the adventures of dos tortas

When a place is officially designated magical, it’s hard to pass up an opportunity to visit. We heard about Izamal at the artisan museum in Valladolid. I admired a painting and was told that it was the convent in Izamal, where the second largest church devoted to the Virgin Mary in Mexico is located. Pope John Paul II visited in 1993, drawing much attention to this little town. Being a fan, we added it to our itinerary (of the virgin, not necessarily the pope).

This painting is of the convent  in Izamal, the yellow city. All buildings in the central town are golden yellow.

Mexico has thirty-six magical pueblos. Once a town receives this coveted designation, they get federal funds for publicity and improvements. Izamal is a day trip from Merida and well worth the drive.

The golden cathedral .

Izamal was once a great Mayan city. In order to convert the population to Catholicism, as in all of Mexico, the  Franciscan priests built a cathedral on top of a pyramid and in a prominent location. The colonial town grew around it.

We found a hotel with a great garden and adequate room.

I loved this grotto and want to build one on our property.

There was a great little artisan museum. Bringing our bicycles was the greatest move we made on this trip.

The Mayan women wear similar dresses as their everyday attire. Young girls don’t want to learn the handwork and the art is being lost.

It’s always about laughing at death or selling bread, take your pick.

There are a dozen talleres or workshops where artists craft from wood, tin, paper mâché, and sisal.

Working in your own home keeps down the overhead and allows artists to make a living.

Cotton, nylon, or sisal in varying weaves, patterns  and prices.

Yucatan traditionally produced sisal or henequen as it is called here. For this reason I bought baskets.

A tortilla basket purchased from the nuns in the church gift shop. They drove a hard bargain but who can argue with nuns? The colors were amazing. I couldn’t pass it up.

Another addition to my budding art collection.

We will definitely make a point of visiting other magical towns in Mexico. Having the ability to take our bicycles made all the difference.

An update on our house construction – the foundation will be poured this week for Lisa’s workshop. It will also provide space to begin shopping for items for the house, ceiling fans, toilets, and appliances. Our builder asked this week to begun thinking about where we want the TV! We may get a house yet.

Having visited most of the major archeological sites of Mexico, Teotihuacán in Mexico City, the Great Pyramid in Cholula, Monte Albán in Oaxaca, Palenque, Tulum, Cobá, Chichén Itzá, Tikal in Guatemala and many minor amazing ruins in our area, I was so surprised by Ek Balám. The site is north of Valladolid with the vast majority unexcavated. It almost looks fake, like a Disney replica. But it isn’t.

The mouth of the jaguar. Undoubtedly designed to scare off enemies. Very impressive.

Ek Balám is noted for its images of “angels”.

Winged humans?

The detail is amazing. I imagine it was a pretty sweet place to live if you were high enough on the food chain.

Mayan hut with the angel top left.

Lisa points the way.

We couldn’t pass on this photo op.

I wish I got the picture of one of these guys heading out on his motorcycle, loin cloth flapping.

One thing Ek Bálam had that was unusual was a large cenote, sink hole. Lisa took the opportunity to zip-line across and repel down.

One way to get her in the cold water.

We felt very privileged to be able to take our time and really enjoy this sacred place. What was it like back in its day? It’s hard to imagine.

Next stop the magical city of Izamal. DOS TORTAS