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The Amazing Meander

19 Apr

Years ago Lisa and I applied to the Amazing Race. After all, we love to travel AND we are very entertaining, at least to us! As our Yucatan adventure continues we can’t help but see ourselves on another kind of Amazing Race. We call it the Amazing Meander. We left Holbox, Yucatan heading south. Feeling a bit peckish we turned left at a sign for a cafe. We were curious at what could be down a little road off a little road. We found Vera’s Cafe.

A world traveler living in a tiny village, Vera made us a delicious lunch.

A world traveler living in a tiny village, Vera made us a delicious lunch. Mexico never ceases to amaze.

Nearby were ancient Mayan trees and an orchid preserve.

These trees were enormous.

These trees were enormous.

The Mayans believe that these trees are holy and are compensated by the government to protect them.

The Mayans believe that certain trees are holy and are compensated by the government to protect them.

Many types of orchids grow on our property in Bacalar.

Many types of orchids grow on our property in Bacalar. These and many others were for sale.

We headed toward Rio Lagartos, a sleepy little fishing village home to flamingos and hundreds of species of birds. We got quite lost along the way, but that’s part of the adventure. At least that’s what we tell ourselves. image We scheduled a six a.m. birding boat tour.

A green heron. Santiago had great eyes and slowed to make sur we didn't miss anything.

A green heron. Our guide  had great eyes and slowed to make sure we didn’t miss anything.

I tried to photograph the flamingos but an iPad just doesn’t work for some things. Besides I was too overcome with emotion to focus very well. Another bucket list must see.

We witnessed a parade of flamingos walking on spindly legs across the mud flats.

We witnessed a parade of flamingos walking on spindly legs across the mud flats. Just awesome.

Of course no visit to Rio Lagartos is complete without a Mayan spa treatment. After soaking in a sulphur warm spring, we covered ourselves in clay. The boat ride to the next stop allowed the clay to dry.

Our skin was baby soft.

Our skin was baby soft afterward . lol

A working lighthouse adds to the charm.

A working lighthouse adds to the village charm.

Another night in Rio Lagartos then off toward Valladolid. image My challenge to you this week is to go on your own meander. Even if it’s on your lunch hour. Take a different path, open your eyes, report back, preferably with pictures DOS TORTAS image

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So You’d Like To Buy Some Furniture?

5 Apr

Semana Santa in Bacalar reminds me of spring break on South Padre Island, only on a much smaller scale. Hotels are overflowing, music is loud, there are long waits in restaurants that opened just last week to take advantage of the occasion. After today we will revert back to a sleepy little town, much like Brigadoon disappearing into the mist.

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On Wednesday, our builder David took us to the little town of Limones to visit the workshop of Luis, furniture maker extraordinaire.

Luis shows us a window frame that he has made for a school. The wood is so beautiful.

Luis shows us a window frame that he has made for a school. The wood is so beautiful.

We looked at different types of wood, mahogany, hard cedar and others who’s names don’t translate into English. The grains were amazing showing a variety of color hidden in a log.

A rich red-purple vein that ould be polished and stained for a table or bench.

A rich red-purple vein that could be polished and stained for a table or bench.

This local cedar had wonderful hues of pink and purple.

This local cedar had wonderful hues of pink and purple.

Next we visited the sawmill to see the source of this lovely wood. Logging is rigorously monitored in Mexico. I was not willing to purchase wood that had been stripped from the jungle to provide us a front door.

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Logs are sliced into boards that dry in the sun.

Using a huge bandsaw boards are cut and stacked to dry.

Using a huge bandsaw boards are cut and stacked to dry.

Having worked in the furniture making industry, Lisa was in heaven, even having a conversation with Luis that neither of them really understood.

Beautiful boards shipped all over the world.

Beautiful boards shipped all over the world.

Anyone want a table shaped like Texas?

I bet they could sell this for a fortune.

I bet they could sell this for a fortune.

For every tree cut, a hundred are planted.

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Back in Limones we stopped at a furniture store. It’s good to know our options. No decisions to make yet but soon.

Look at the different wood in this table.

Look at the different wood in this table.

For the patio perhaps with olorful cushions.

For the patio perhaps with colorful cushions.

We are off this week for a road trip around the Yucatan looking for old doors to repurpose. We hope to visit a few churches, cenotes and maybe an island or two. Until next week. DOS TORTAS

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Exploring Bacalar On Foot

29 Mar

My favorite way to explore any place is by walking. It’s a chance to savor the sights, sounds and smells. Bacalar is quite compact, so it is an easy distance to meander, allowing whim to lead. Last night’s tormenta left streets washed away and electrical wires down. The trees and flowers weren’t complaining however and everything looked green and bright, the way it does after a good drenching.

Bogavilla of all colors are blooming year round.

Bogavilla of all colors are blooming year round.

It’s also banana season in southern Mexico with large bunches hanging in every yard.

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This bunch came down in the heavy downpour.

This bunch fell down in the heavy downpour.

Along my walk, I admired this beautiful stone wall that was recently completed. It is amazing to me that a wall is built on property where there is no house! In some instances, I’ve seen narrow doors in a thick wall in front of an empty lot that will make future construction almost impossible. I’ve yet to figure it out.

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Onward toward the mercado. There is a large Mennonite community around Bacalar. They are known for their cheese production and handmade furniture. These lovely chairs were for sale at about $25US each. This robust gentleman had to show me how well the chairs were made by wiggling his behind in the seat, which made everyone laugh. The Mennonite man even smiled, I think.

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The mercado was busy. There are a lot of out-of-state vehicles in town as we lead up to Semana Santa, Holy Week and Easter, which swells Bacalar to capacity and then some. All hotels and hostels will be full to overflowing.

The Mayan women have their patio eggs and backyard veggies.

The Mayan women have their patio eggs and backyard veggies.

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My next stop is the juice bar. It’s new and they offer a mean green drink, a bit sweet put perfect refreshment after a walk.

$1.50 for a half liter.

$1.50 for a half liter.

I was pleased to see early corn available. The guy said it was grown local, a peso an ear (.07). I bought five and he threw in a freebie. The corn turned out to be quite sweet. Mexico banned GMO corn, so the ears are small. Together with the black beans left from dinner and the tomatoes and cilantro from the mercado, I made a great fresh corn and black bean salad for lunch. Yum.

I couldn’t resist a shot of these lovely watermelons. It would have been a bit difficult to carry and besides I had one home on the counter.

Another Mennonite family.

Another Mennonite family.

I had a conversation with a Mennonite woman selling tomatoes and peppers. She spoke English having lived in Belize and complained that she found Spanish difficult to learn. She told me that she has eleven children and her mother had sixteen, all still living. She was fascinated that I only had three children. I wished that I had more time to stay and talk to her. Hopefully I’ll see her again.

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I learned that going for a walk with no destination or plan can turn a grumpy morning into an awesome day. The ingredients for lunch were a bonus. It’s easy here with a smile and a hug to connect. I bet it would work where you live too. Let us know. DOS TORTAS

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Permission to Build – Let the Games Begin

22 Mar

“Everything will be all right in the end… if it’s not all right then it’s not yet the end.”

I guess you can tell that we re-watched the Best Exotic Marigold Hotel this week. I just love that movie. It makes me laugh. We saw it first on the big screen the summer before we pulled out of the driveway hauling our worldly possessions to retire in Mexico. Life sure has been an adventure since then, although not always the one we expected.

This week, after five months of waiting, we got the approval for our home construction project from the state of Quitana Roo. Cue music – happy dance!

David, our builder and Lisa out checking out the placement of the house.

David, our builder and Lisa out checking out the placement of the house.

We put a contract on a half acre of lake-front property when we first visited Bacalar, Quitana Roo, a half hour from the Belize-Mexico border, in December 2013. It was a bold move and we returned to Austin to sell our house, retire from our jobs, sell everything and return the following September to begin life in small-town southern Mexico. We never expected to be renting for two years before moving into our own home. We had a lot to learn about how things are done in Mexico.

Our wobbly dock will be replaced eventually. This will be the view from our porch.

Our wobbly dock will be replaced eventually. This will be the view from our porch.

We hired a biologist a year ago to submit a three-ring, three-inch environmental impact study to the state oversight agency. Building in an environmentally sensitive area required jumping through many more hoops than we were aware. We turned in the report in October 2014 and got our permission to move forward on Thursday of this week.

The view south from our rickety dock.

The view south from our rickety dock.

Our next steps will be to submit structural plans to the Municipio de Bacalar. Municipalities have oversight over all new construction. We will continue transferring funds to our Mexican bank, open an account with a local construction materials company, who will make weekly deliveries to the property, and work on the interior design. We meet next week with a woodworker to begin making the doors.

A built-in cabinet that we will have incorporated into the house design.

A built-in cabinet that we have incorporated into the house design.

I love the idea of niches and built-in cabinets. In a small house it is especially important to optimize the use of all available space. We’ve extended the size of the porch and my studio to allow room for a bed and guests.

We want a similar roof-top patio for star gazing, curling up with a book or entertaining friends.

We want a similar roof-top patio for star gazing, curling up with a book or entertaining friends.

We’re finally starting to feel excited. Today we go to the property to check out progress on the well and septic system. It’s been one big lesson on how to be happy while life unfolds in its own way.

I love this stonework that is in the home of a neighbor.

I love this stonework that is in the home of a neighbor.

This is the time we get to fulfill an unspoken dream, a beautiful home. I’ve never been one to focus on beauty. Our home has always been basic, functional and comfortable. Now is the time to create beauty, something until this time, I’d never really considered. Stay with us, this is when it gets fun. I hope.

DOS TORTA

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A Car Chase in Bacalar Taxista #29

15 Mar

Taxis are an essential to life in Bacalar and Mexico in general. You can travel from one end of Bacalar to the other for about two dollars. When considering the cost of insurance, gas and maintenance on a car, you can’t beat it. That is why, when our friends from Austin, Roberta and her sister Mary where visiting a few weeks ago, we thought nothing of hailing a cab to head to breakfast and the best view in town, Hotel Laguna Bacalar.

The food is good and the view is no extra charge.

The food is good and the view is no extra charge.

Looking south toward Chetumal.

Looking south toward Chetumal.

Upon our return to town and exiting the taxi, I knew within minutes that my cell phone was missing. I returned immediately to the taxi stand and told my woe to the taxistas. Note to self and all of you – always note the number of the taxi you ride in.

Roberta and Mary visit Bacalar.

Roberta and Mary visit Bacalar.

The remainder of the day was spent backtracking, getting the phone turned off and trying not to spoil our guests’ final day in Bacalar. We made no further progress on finding the phone and left two days later ourselves, for our trip to Austin.

Teaching Grandma Lisa how it's done (target shooting)

Teaching Grandma Lisa how it’s done (target shooting)

Halfway through our vacation, we got a message from our good friend and neighbor that his velador Carlos (property manager) knew who had our phone! Carlos used to drive a taxi. And as stories go in a small town, his wife’s cousin saw a taxista with a phone that wasn’t his. Given an opportunity, the cousin looked in the phone and saw Carlos’s phone number and that of our friend.

Now before you get all hopeful, as we did, this story doesn’t have a happy ending. Upon our return, we went to the central office to report taxista #29. The manager said that he would look into it. The fun started when two days later, we spied #29 and Lisa decided to give chase . Now you cannot really have much of a car chase in Bacalar and when the taxi pulled over, we blocked his exit and got out of the truck. He had stopped for the manager who was also looking for him. And then another supervisor showed up. There were neighbors standing in their doorways craning their necks to see what was going on with the crazy gringas. I wish I had thought to take pictures.

A car chase in Bacalar would require avoiding hitting the goats.

A car chase in Bacalar would require avoiding hitting the goats.

It came down to “he said – she said” and #29 vehemently denied everything. Without someone willing to testify, we had no proof. Upon further conversation with Carlos, we decided to drop the issue. #29 is a known bully and he knew who had accused him. We were not concerned for ourselves, but the young cousin who would be asked to testify. Our only hope is that the management knows and #29 will be more careful in the future.

This morning's sunrise.

This morning’s sunrise.

So we’re off this week to buy another phone. As many great stories as we’ve heard about people going out of their way to return lost items, I suppose there will always be a #29 who will show up, an unfortunate fact of life anywhere.
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Life Returning to Normal – Whatever That Means

8 Mar

The Tortas have returned to Bacalar after two weeks in cold, drizzle and fog. We loved visiting with friends and family, but we didn’t get the usual lovely Austin early spring. The day after we left, the city was shut down with freezing temperatures and ice. Whew!

Travel is tiring no matter how well the trip goes. Even the young adults sitting behind us on the plane chanting “Cancun, Cancun!” didn’t put a damper on our mood. Earplugs helped.

The sunset leaving Tulum heading home to Bacalar.

The sunset leaving Tulum heading home to Bacalar.

Returning to our paradise means kicking our house construction into high gear. We have met with our architect and a three week deadline is ticking to complete the structural plans. It was fun to talk sky lights, niches and ceiling fan placement. We will walk the property on Tuesday with our builder to discuss house placement tweaks to optimize the view and air flow. While it seems that it has taken an inordinately long time to build this house, blessings can come in disguise. We are finally clear on what we want and the universe is getting onboard.

A built-in cabinet that we will incorporate into the house design.

A built-in cabinet that we will incorporate into the house design.

A huge blessing is the current dollar to peso exchange rate. As we prepare to transfer money to our Mexican bank account, the dollar is the strongest it’s been in 22 years. It means  that our cost to build will be less than when we arrived in 2013. Another blessing being showered on The Tortas.

Sunday morning sunrise over Laguna Bacalar.

Sunday morning sunrise over Laguna Bacalar.

We are happy to be settling back into our routine of exercise, meditation and our daily to-do list…make a dentist appointment, schedule maintenance on the truck, clean out the refrigerator, etc. It’s a simple life and extremely satisfying.
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The Artist Next Door

1 Feb

“Art has so many sides, so many possibilities.” These wise words posted by one of our blog followers inspired me to continue sharing the artistry that is Bacalar. Christmas Eve we met our neighbors Abraham and Isabel. Abraham is a stone and wood sculptor with his work currently on display at a local resort. We spent a fun day recently oooing and ahhhing and generally being inspired by Abraham’s work.

Abraham Illescas

Abraham Illescas

The pieces are viewed best by walking round to experience all sides. Clearly this is not the perfect venue. The stone makes you want to caress the coolness, smooth and rough. Abraham “finds” stones, or maybe they find him and works to release the beauty within.
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Abraham is working on an installation for the Modern Art Museum in Mexico City in a few months. At the same time, all pieces are for sale, a common struggle of all full-time artists.

Wouldn't this piece look wonderful in your garden?

Wouldn’t this beauty look wonderful in your garden?

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This is my favorite piece, carved from a stone found holding open a door in a small Yucatan hotel. Maybe its forever home is my yet-to-be built house, displayed with the perfect lighting in my living room .
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Abraham and Isabel sat with us at dinner last weekend. They wave when they see me out on my bike. It has been really fun getting to know them and continuing to open my eyes to the artistry in Bacalar.

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The Artistry of Bacalar

25 Jan

San Miguel de Allende in northern Mexico is an artists’ haven. We stopped last year on our drive back to Bacalar from visiting family in Texas. There are artisan markets, galleries, beautifully landscaped architecture and well, sigh…I returned to our little town of Bacalar feeling depressed and longing for a more stimulating creative environment.

The street in San Miguel.

The street in San Miguel.

In the year since, I have discovered the amazing arts community that is Bacalar. It began when I opened my eyes.

Colibri

Colibri

This beautiful hummingbird and the blue deer that follows grace the wall of a house that is under construction. The colors are vibrant and my bicycle excursion up a new street uncovered them, much to my delight.

Venado Azul

Venado Azul

Down the street from our house, the newly named Frida Kahlo school for differently-abled children received a new mural outside its gate over the recent holiday vacation.

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My favorite mural is on a main street leading off the town square.

The sky begins on Laguna Bacalar.

The sky begins on Laguna Bacalar.

Even a little house that looks like it’s about to fall down provides the canvas for an artist’s expression.

The work covers part of the front door in its beautiful expression.

The work covers part of the front door in its beautiful display.

There are amateur murals, perhaps from a community project of years ago.

Note the crocodile in the foreground.

Note the crocodile in the foreground.

A recent state-wide celebration included the commission of this mural on the wall of the Bacalar Tourist Center.

Flying fish than can be seen when I'm out in my kayak.

Flying fish that can be seen while kayaking on the laguna.

Next week starts the annual Art Rendezvous at Casita Carolina. Local and visiting artists gather for five days and capture the sights – mercado, pyramids, palm trees and colorful residents. On Saturday next there is a community party and art sale. Everyone is invited to participate. I’ve decided to paint even though I haven’t picked up a brush since high school.

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With exceedingly low expectations of my artistic abilities I will join in and chronicle the fun. Clearly our community is far more artistic and creative than I previously saw. With such a beautiful environment, how could it not be.

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Follow up to last week’s blog  Los Perros of Bacalar –

I did not expect that blog followers would be willing to open their hearts and resources to the dogs and cats of Bacalar, silly me. This weekend there was a sterilization clinic with additional pictures on the Dos Tortas Facebook page. It is a public page that you can access without a FB account. If you wish to contribute please contact me for further information. A large bag of dog food costs $25US and the average cost to sterilize an animal is about $20. We have the offer of a permanent location and would like to have monthly clinics. There are start up equipment costs, but money goes far in Mexico.

Our visiting veterinarian and expat nurse extraordinaire Patty.

Our visiting veterinarian and expat nurse extraordinaire Patty.

DOS TORTAS

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Los Perros of Bacalar

18 Jan

The dogs of Bacalar have been on my list of blog topics for awhile. They lounge in the streets barely aware of speeding taxis and zipping motos. When walking or riding our bikes, it is useful to carry a stick or pocket of stones. Bacalareños and expats alike either own dogs, are afraid of them or both, for good reason.

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In the defense of the perros is our friend Rojo. He takes collections of dog food, arranges sterilization clinics and maintains the bellies of a small herd of street dogs. With the support of many gringos he has taken the fight to the município and raised awareness. His facebook page, Perros Olvidados de Bacalar, the forgotten dogs of Bacalar, was created to provide a central message board.

Rojo the dog rescuer.

Rojo the dog whisperer.

While riding this week I was bum rushed by two dogs that hang out blocks from our house. I got scared, hit the brakes and went down. I got up bruised but determined to do something about this particular duo as I have seen them in action before.

They certainly think they live here and someone is feeding them.

They certainly think they live here and someone is feeding them.

I canvassed the neighborhood but was told that the dogs have no owner. No one wants to take responsibility for this pair, for good reason. A friend paid $11,000 pesos this week, about $750us when a passing man called the police threatening to sue, claiming our friend’s weimaraner Lucy had bitten him (names have been changed to protect the presumed innocent). As anywhere, the case for settling “out of court” was made and a deal was struck.

The take away came from the old man who came by on his tricycle while I was knocking on doors. I see him frequently in the hood and noticed that the corner dogs mostly ignore him. My curiosity was peaked and I struck up a conversation. I told him that the dogs had attacked me and I was looking for their owner. He casually glanced at my leg looking for evidence of the crime. Finding none, he proceeded to gesture about the mythical dogs who live “over there” and attack and kill people. Seemingly there are always people, “over there” who have it worse, like the starving children in Africa, invoked by my parents to pressure me to eat my peas and carrots.

The lesson and our new mantra is, if you’re not dead, you have nothing to complain about. Try it this week; it sort of has a nice ring to it don’t you think?

DOS TORTAS

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A Literary Suggestion for the Mexico Bound

11 Jan

Bacalareños had a quiet Saturday night. The long holiday vacation is over with adults back to work and the children in school. The cool weather and rain had the perros curled up and quiet until the rooster alarm clock went off this morning. We cherish these mornings.

Rainy Sunday morning.

Rainy Sunday morning.

I’ve been hearing from readers about adventurous plans to travel or retire to Mexico. I thought you might enjoy a reading suggestion to pass the time until your trip.

On my night table is The Lacuna by Barbara Kinsolver.

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The main character tells of life growing up with his Mexican mother and his relationship with Frieda Kalo and Diego Rivera.

Artists of Mexico.

Artists of Mexico.

As a young adult he returns to seek out his US father and ends up living in Asheville, NC. of all places. My brother lives in Asheville and I’ve visited many times, however familiarity with the city is not a requirement to enjoy the book.

I found The Lacuna slow to engage but persisted after I saw it included among the coffee table collection at La Casa de los Venados in Valladolid. If the owners of this amazing art collection thought enough to place it front and center in a room where there are no accidents, I decided to give it a second go.

All things Mexico.

All things Mexico.

The largest private collection of Mexican folk art.

The largest private collection of Mexican folk art in the world.

Our reclusive protagonist develops into a writer of Mexican ancient history and weaver of stories that capture the hearts of post WW I, communist fearing Americans. I cannot tell you the ending, as I am within pages of finishing myself. It feels much like the story of Dos Tortas, off to a slow start, but now within days of receiving our permission to build our retirement home. How perfect a life reflection. DOS TORTAS
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Emilie Vardaman

travel and random thoughts

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