Tag Archives: living in mexico

Hallelujah And Amen

30 Nov

In much of the world, a wedding is quite predictable, the dress, the rings, the cake. When we were invited to the wedding of our Mayan housekeeper Lucero, we jumped at the chance. She is from a postage stamp sized village thirty minutes from Bacalar. It was our fourth wedding in twelve years and they have run the gambit from top shelf to backyard.

Lucero’s dress was stunning and she looked very nervous, like most brides.

This wedding was on a whole different level. Ninety-some percent of Mexico is Christian with most of that Catholic. But not in this area. There are a lot of Mennonites, Jehovah’s Witnesses, Seventh Day Adventists and Pentecostals. We had never been to a Pentecostal wedding.

The first of three preachers.

The wedding started at 6pm on a Thursday. We put on our one “fancy” outfit and prayed that the thunder we heard would not spoil the occasion. The festivities started on time which was no small miracle in Mexico. It was all quite unexpected from there.

The children were adorable and looked at the strangers inquisitively.

The wedding involved standing for most of two plus hours, arms raised, and singing, amen-ing, and hallelujah-ing. Three different preachers tag-teamed to inspire, admonish, and harangue in Spanish. It would have been ok except the volume produced by half a dozen large speakers emitted a sound heard by God themself. I stuffed tissue in my ears but it did not help. We left early.

By the time we left, the seats were filled in. I think the whole town was in attendance.

I hated to leave. It meant so much to Luceto that we would come, and four old white women in a sea of about 200 brown faces did not go unnoticed. The family tried to feed us before we left but our tolerance for bleeding ears was spent.

Lots of sleepy little faces.

There are times that I admire the devotion, enthusiasm, and conviction of religion. My personal spiritual beliefs are quieter and more internal. I am grateful that everyone gets to find their own place, even if it’s not quiet or peaceful but right for them.

DOS TORTAS

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Love At First Sight?

21 Sep

It was thirty-one years ago that she walked around the bar and into my life. Our friends nodded and smiled and knew it would never last. She was rough around the edges, not long out of the military. She smoked and drank and I did neither. I was twelve years older with three children. We both were still living with our exes. Not exactly a match made in heaven.

Our first Christmas 1994

And yet here we are, happier than ever, living our dream together. I’m not saying it hasn’t been work. We’ve learned to accept each other as we are, not tolerance but appreciation. There’s also the art of listening without feeling criticized and taking personal responsibility.

First Valentines Day 1995
Wedding photos 1999
Legal 2014

We have supported each other through major health crises, spending nights together in the hospital, even in one case, sleeping on the floor.

Back Surgery

All in all, it’s been a ride. Thirty-one years is worth celebrating. We certainly didn’t have a crystal ball that night in the bar when we laughed and flirted. If you’d have asked me if love at first sight existed I’d probably have scoffed. But ask me today, and I’d say yes, but it also takes a lot of damn work.

DOS TORTAS

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Come In – But I Don’t Have Pants On

31 Aug

We were looking for a house sitter and found a friend. Whenever we leave our home in Mexico, we must find a house sitter, someone to care for the dogs and manage the house. Michelle was recommended after she had visited Bacalar last year. We found a real treasure.

Wannabe influencer.

We have had mixed results with previous house sitters. Walking out the door and handing the keys to the house and car to a virtual stranger is not without anxiety and consequences. We have been lucky and any damage over the last twelve years has been repairable.

Michelle added fun to anything she touched.

On several occasions we have found folks who have continued to be friends and returned to hang out on the lake and play with the dogs. But none like Michelle.

This crazy woman fit right into our quirky lives and we will miss her. We became “sisters” and Lisa’s mom became Mom to another daughter. Even the dogs have a new “Auntie Michelle.” She left on Friday with a promise to return. The house already feels empty.

Lisa’s Aunt Linda is also visiting.

Thank you Michelle for coming into our lives and being someone to talk to, a swimming companion, a dish washer, a sous chef and friend to Lisa’s mom. You have added laughter and companionship that we didn’t know we needed.

DOS TORTAS

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A Good Accent

25 May

I had a teacher in high school, Mrs Fran Durst. A foreign language was required in those days and for some reason, I chose Spanish.

Graduation photo 1970. I was cute.

I liked Mrs Durst. She was young and fun. One day she made a comment to me that has stayed with me and possibly changed the trajectory of my life. “You have a good accent”.

I don’t remember getting many compliments for school performance. I wasn’t a highly motivated student. But a good accent was a natural talent. I could hear nuance and mimic it. And she was right, I DO have a good accent.

https://lingopie.com/blog/a-quick-guide-to-understanding-mexican-spanish-accents/

I have tried to find Mrs Durst numerous times with no success. I’d like to tell her that I now speak very well. I can carry on a conversation, speak on the phone, understand enough to get by at a doctor’s appointment, and get the car repaired. My reading skills are not the best but I constantly look up words and add them to my vocabulary.

My high school.

Thank you Mrs Durst. I’d love to let you know how much your words shaped my life. I live full time in Mexico and yes, I do have a good accent.

DOS TORTAS

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Howlers And Mayan Pyramids

19 May

We are off for the day to explore the extraordinary Mayan pyramids of Kohunlich. My niece is visiting and seeing these masks is required.

Giant masks are unique to this particular site.

Here’s a blog from 2017 when we visited with my dear friend Harper.

https://theadventuresofdostortas.com/?s=Relax+and+hug+a+tree&submit=Search

Howler monkeys at the entrance to Kohunlich.

We have lost count how many times we’ve taken visitors to experience this amazing place among the howler monkeys and towering palms.

Austin friends Milton and Margo 2018

Getting up early is necessary to beat the heat and dodge the mosquitoes and tourists. Lisa is a great tour guide. So kick back and enjoy your Sunday. We will return with our regularly scheduled program next week.

DOS TORTAS

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Mexican Drivers License

5 May

We had our bags pilfered on the bus ride home from our recent vacation. The loss included my Texas driver’s license. It can’t be replaced until I return to the US, thus the need for a Mexican license.

It took me three trips to the Office of Transportation in downtown Bacalar. The first time I was informed that May first was a holiday and I needed to come back on Thursday. I got the list of documents that I needed. One was certification of my health, obtained from a ten minute visit to a local clinic and costing $4.00.

I gathered up the required copies and returned on Thursday. Oops testing starts at ten. After a coffee to take up some time, I returned for a third time to find a full house. The testing space was small and bursting with men all getting a driver’s license for the first time, mostly to drive a motorcycle, and me.

A friend had told me that the process was quite easy and the questions were bordering on the ridiculous. But when the woman handed me three pages in Spanish I became nervous.

As I read through the questions, breathe relax, I trusted my skill, finished fairly quickly and looked up. It was then that I realized that I probably read more Spanish than anyone else in the room. There is not a high literacy rate in Bacalar. No problemo, everyone was relaxed with heads together helping each other! I almost laughed out loud. One young man sitting across from me looking very nervous leaned forward to ask me the answer to the question, “who has the right of way, the driver or the pedestrian?” He had the correct answer. I told him that I had put the same answer. Mind you I was the only woman and a white haired foreigner to boot. He must have been desperate.

When I handed in the test, the clerk scanned the pages quickly then rolled her eyes. I didn’t know the color of various street signs so I just guessed. Oops. To my surprise, she pulled out a bottle of white-out and proceeded to CORRECT MY MISTAKES! Her comment to the other clerk, “She’s a foreigner.”

It’s official.

I am now the proud owner of a shiny new driver’s license and another story to tell that tickles me about living in Mexico.

DOS TORTAS

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Life Goes On

9 Feb

We’ve had a rough month. First my mother-in-law fell and dislocated her wrist, then Lisa and I got Covid and last week my dear niece died after battling brain cancer.

Blooming

I’m mostly recovered from Covid but still experiencing body aches. I’ve been working in the yard and exercising a bit. Getting outside is good for the soul.

We all have ways to cope. One of mine is making art. I’m loving these mandalas.

We are heading to the U.S. for my niece’s memorial the end of the month. There are lots of loose ends to tie up before we travel, warm clothes not withstanding. I’m not sure why we’ve been heading north in cold weather. These tropical girls do not adjust easily.

DOS TORTAS

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Medical Care Mexico

13 Jan

In 2018 my mother-in-law fell coming down our stairs and broke her right wrist. This week she broke her left.

2018 fall required pins and surgery.

Alice lives near us and when she called this week in obvious distress, Lisa was at her door in less than a minute. As near as we can figure, she stood up quickly and blacked out. She hit her arm against the couch and dislocated her wrist and broke a bone.

Alice’s little house on our property.

The hospital is about a forty minute drive. We called our doctor Oscar to give him a heads up and Lisa and Alice left for the emergency room about nine pm. The amazing thing is that they were home and Alice was in her bed by two o’clock! Yes, you heard me right, five hours including the drive.

Oscar notified the emergency room staff and they were waiting. A team wheeled her into x-ray, they then knocked her out, and set the bone. She has a cast and an appointment to return. The nurses, technicians and traumatologist were loving, gentle and efficient. My friend in Texas pays steeply for “concierge” medicine. Here in Mexico it’s business as usual.

Bet you wish he were your doctor? Smart and gorgeous.

Let me make one thing clear, our doctor and care is at a private hospital. Lisa, Alice and I have excellent health insurance in the states that we rarely use. We pay totally out of pocket in Mexico. The bill you ask?

About $1200 US, which includes medication and follow up visits.

A bit drugged but behaving herself.

We feel very blessed. Now if we can just get all three of us well at the same time.

DOS TORTAS

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Sisters Sisters

24 Sep

Our visit to Alaska was special in many ways. Besides the wildlife, snow topped mountains, and glaciers, there was time spent with Lisa’s Great Aunt Edna. I was a fly on the wall to witness their love and connection. It was a beautiful thing.

I only hope to age as gracefully as this dynamo.

Edna is Lisa’s great aunt, her grandmother’s youngest and only remaining sister. As Lisa was the oldest grandchild, she and her aunt share many memories that few in the family possess. Text messages passed between them every few months allowing connection as only our electronic age permits when one lives in Mexico and the other in Alaska. When Lisa declared her desire to visit her almost ninety year old aunt, I thought, “why not?” I did not expect to find the vibrant, capable and engaging woman that I did. BTW she is a big Dos Tortas fan and follower.

Did I mention that Edna was the youngest of eight sisters?

Edna and her sisters were very close. Every year they had Sister Reunion. Sometimes that meant staying in a hotel together, especially as the elders aged.

Sister reunions also included adventures.

The Sister Reunions were sacrosanct and no one was allowed entry. As the favorite granddaughter of Edith, Lisa sometimes wrangled her way in and got to know all her great aunts. Once a group of them traveled to Europe while Lisa was in the military. They toured the museums and sites, generally having the time of their lives.

During our visit, I busied myself preparing meals while Lisa and Edna culled through forty photo albums and packed up her apartment for the move to Portland, USA. Edna is leaving Alaska after sixty years for assisted living. She fell and broke her pelvis a couple of years ago. Alaskan winters are rough, dark and cold. She is ready for a change, bittersweet as it is.

I felt privileged to meet Edna and witness a reunion of a slightly different yet equally poignant kind.

DOS TORTAS

Sisters Sisters by Irving Berlin. Movie classic, White Christmas.

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Vacation Detour

3 Sep

We left Northern California for Seattle, Washington on Monday. We were on to cooler climes and a visit with friends before heading to Vancouver Canada.

My daughter and twin granddaughters.

Unfortunately things took an unexpected detour.

Lisa got sick and ended up in the hospital. A nasty UTI (urinary tract infection) which traveled to her kidneys, has her with an IV pumping antibiotics into her arm until Tuesday. So much for Vancouver. At this point we’re grateful she’s alive and healing. She was one sick puppy.

Near my hotel is an art museum with Chihuly glass.
Native artists and subject matter.
Powerful images from native artists.

It’s been a crazy week. We literally opened google maps and went to the nearest hospital. We lucked out. The doctors and staff have been amazing. We are so very grateful.

DOS TORTAS

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