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Cobá Center of the Mayan Universe

26 Oct

Since moving to Mexico, Lisa and I have wanted to visit the pyramides of Cobá. It is north, turn left at Tulum and follow the signs. There was a tropical storm predicted but we were unfazed. The weather in Mexico is much like Texas, wait an hour and it changes.

Entrance

Entrance

We arrived early to beat the crowds. Tour buses can empty out and make even a spacious site such as Cobá (almost 50 sq miles which housed 50,000 people at its peak population) feel crowded.

Walking through the jungle.

Walking through the jungle.

We spent $20US for a tour guide. Ixmael, a local guy who taught himself English. He made our trip fun and answered our endless questions.

A great guide shows us around.

Lisa with Karen Flowers, our friend  from Tulum.

Pedicabs made the trekking easier after climbing the highest pyramid in the Yucatan peninsula.

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Nohoch Mul is 138 feet tall. It will be closed to climbing in 2015.

130 steps to the top.

130 steps to the top.

View from the top with rain cloud.

View from the top with rain cloud.

Cobá has wonderful carvings, columns and early Mayan ball courts.

Put a leather ball through the ring without using hands or feet.

Put a leather ball through the ring without using hands or feet.

Stone columns.

Stone columns.

Carving of a Mayan king.

Carving of a Mayan king.

Watching over a grisley ritual.

Watching over a grisley ritual.

They jungle itself was also amazing.

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Shopping opportunity outside the gate.

Shopping opportunity outside the gate.

Driving home, the sky amazed as always.

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The pyramids of Mexico give us added respect for a country with an ancient history. You’re welcome to ride shotgun with the Tortas as we work our way around the Yucatan. See you next week.

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Sunrise of the week.

Sunrise of the week Laguna Bacalar.

The Many Faces of Laguna Bacalar

19 Oct

The fall brings the rainy season to Bacalar. The wind picks up and the palm-frond palapas begin to rustle. The room gets dark as the clouds block the sun. Time to close the persianas (slatted windows).

The Laguna transforms minute-to-minute with the changing weather.

Monday Morning

Monday Morning

Just as the sun pops above the horizon.

Just as the sun pops above the horizon Tuesday.

Some mornings a pink hue lights up the bedroom and sends me running with camera in hand, to capture another amazing sunrise.

Big sky.

Big sky.

Other days the lake is gray and hauntingly beautiful.

Thick fog.

Thick fog.

Sun sparkling through the clouds.

Sun sparkling through the clouds.

Last night we were able to witness one of those evenings that continue to mesmerize with each passing minute. Cameras were clicking all around us as children threw rocks in the water and were oblivious to the changing beauty of the sky.

 

Perfect for panoramic shots.

Perfect for panoramic shots.

I don’t think I will ever tire of watching and recording the Bacalar sky. You can now follow us on Instagram at dos_tortas. This week we get our first visitors from Austin. We’re excited to be able to show off our town and beautiful Laguna Bacalar.

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Healing Treatment Mayan Style

12 Oct

Moving to Bacalar, Mexico has meant that I haven’t had the resources of the healing community found in my hometown of Austin, Texas, or so I thought.

Let me back up. I have had a series of health challenges that have snowballed due to the use of antibiotics to treat a recurrent urinary track infection. From there, I began having red raised welts all over my body that came and went. Next was the abdominal pain that kept me awake at night. There is nothing more maddening than symptoms that come and go and can’t be pinned down. I have been to four doctors and had numerous tests, blood, urinalysis, CAT scan, ultrasound, even a colonoscopy. Nada, nothing, zilch, nary a polop was discovered. I’ve also had lots of prescriptions, more antibiotics, steroids, creams, and intestinal drugs. We won’t even talk about the expense.

It’s so easy to blame health problems on living in Mexico. After all I was never sick in the US. Ha, I was too busy to be sick and I refuse to fall into that rabbit hole.

This week Lisa made an appointment with our friend and health practitioner Irlein. She and her husband Marcos moved to Laguna Bacalar about this time last year. Irlein has trained for years with a Mayan healer to learn traditional herbs, massage and ancient healing treatments. The experience was amazing.

Soaking in a hot herbal bath.

Soaking in a hot herbal bath.

The day-long process began with lots of preguntas about my symptoms, my self-assessment, what I’ve tried etc. We moved on to a limpia, cleansing with herbs, smoke and chanting. I soaked for hours in a hot herbal bath and periodically jumped in the laguna. Irlein scrubbed my body with course sea salt. The time was spent listening to my inner wisdom, to the messages on the wind and from the laguna. The sense of peace I experienced was deep and profound.

Massage room with a view.

Massage room with a view.

When I was finished soaking Irlein gave me a relaxing massage. The day was filled with love and connection, silence and prayer. A voice told me that I try too hard. It’s time to let life unfold and not push it. Hmmmm.

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So how am I feeling three days later? Natural healing is not like taking a pill. The body takes time to right itself. The rash has disappeared ninety-five percent. My stomach is lots better. I am also on my second week of a juice fast, but that’s another blog. I am happy to find a natural healer in Bacalar. Sometimes it takes a village to think outside the medical box. Thank you Irlein for moving to Bacalar.

Sunrise of the week.

Sunrise of the week on Laguna Bacalar.

Off On A Torta Adventure

21 Sep

On Friday we took a bus for our Torta adventure to Merida. After five and a half hour ride through pineapple fields and small towns we arrived for our stay. If you look at a map of Mexico, Merida is the capital of the state of Yucatan. It’s situated at the tip of the peninsula.

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We were offered the use of a lovely home that is within walking distance of the zocalo, central square. We’ve been exploring churches, the artisan market and a lovely museum.

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On Sunday the roads around the center are closed to motor vehicles. The bicycles are out on mass.

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There is a large artists market and walkers in their Sunday best.

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We will definitely be back. What a lovely colonial town. We’re off in a few days to explore more of the Yucatan on our way back to Bacalar.

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You Can Never Have Too Much Inspiration

7 Sep

After the bulb went off over my head about two years ago and I began researching places to retire, I wasn’t 100% sold on México. Lisa and I had made travel an important part of our life. Every trip, Thailand, Turkey, Belize, even the lesbian capital of the world, Provincetown, MA evoked the question, “could we live here?” I guess it was clear that Texas wasn’t our final destination.

Saying adiós to family before leaving Austin.

Saying adiós to family before leaving Austin.

During the research period, a movie came out, with Judi Dench, Maggie Smith, and Dev Patel called, The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel (for the elderly and beautiful). It isn’t often that a movie has almost all it’s main characters in their sixties and seventies. It also made me laugh out loud.

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A group of aging Brits moves to India to seek an affordable retirement. They discover, that the hotel they are moving into has been photo shopped on the internet by its young and optimistic owner,  played by Dev Patel (Slum Dog Millionaire). His enthusiasm for the future invokes trust (also the fact that they all bought one-way tickets); drama and mayhem ensues.

The south end of Laguna Bacalar.

The south end of Laguna Bacalar.

Besides the joy I experienced watching these characters make choices that transform their lives, there are wonderful inspirational dichos, sayings, that are really the take-away message.

The measure of success is how we cope with disappointment. Disappointment is all about living in the past and wishing things had been different. It took me a long time to figure out that it’s a distraction which keeps me from learning and making different choices now.

There's always a storm somewhere.

There’s always a storm somewhere.

The person who risks nothing, does nothing, has nothing. I have learned along the way the pitfalls of choosing a life based on safety. It is costly and tastes like cardboard. I love to read inspirational stories of people who step out and grow wings.

Harvesting from our property

Harvesting from our property

All we know about the future is that it will be different. But perhaps what we fear is that it will be the same. So we must celebrate the changes. I can never be reminded too often to celebrate the change in this aging body. I am more relaxed and peaceful and that’s big for me. I still exercise but it’s by choice and because it makes me healthier and happier.

Lisa, her mom and me visiting the pyramids of Palenque.

Lisa, her mom and me visiting the pyramids of Palenque.

I am a big believer in filling my life with inspiration. At the same time, I strive to find inspiration in all things. If you haven’t seen The Amazing Marigold Hotel, add it to your list of things that inspire, no matter how old you are.

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And my favorite quote…Everything will be all right in the end and if it’s not, then trust me, it’s not yet the end. 

It’s All About Communication and Therein Lies The Problem

31 Aug

I have always thought I was a good communicator, which of course is the problem. Anytime we’re good at something, it makes it harder to learn.

I have made presentations and conducted training in a room filled with hundreds of people, once with standing room only. My expertise was men and family planning, the needs of young fathers, and the role of routine HIV testing in a reproductive health setting. Maybe if I had a PowerPoint presentation I could communicate better, LOL.

Sunrise near our property.

Sunrise near our property.

The trouble is, I don’t usually know there’s a problem until it hits me upside the head. Have you ever had a conversation with someone, a co-worker, spouse or one of your kids and felt like you were each speaking a different language? It’s like that here, because we ARE! Even someone who has a reasonable command of English, doesn’t really. It’s the same with my Spanish. It’s about so much more than words.

We’re trying to build a house. We are unfamiliar with the procedures in Mexico. As foreigners, the bank holds title to our property, even though it’s paid for. We must give the bank power of attorney to sign all kinds of documents to get permission to build. It’s the way things are done. This week I felt like I was living in that old Abbott and Costello routine, “Who’s On First”. It helps to have a sense of humor, but frustrating when the house we thought we’d be living in by now, hasn’t started construction. Not by a long shot.

While I realize this sounds like complaining and breaking the “no complaining in paradise” rule, I hope it isn’t. I love where I live. The process may be moving along at a snail’s pace but it’s moving. This week I sat on our soon to be neighbor’s patio and looked at where our house will stand. I looked at the lake and listened to the birds and could visualize living right here. I could FEEL it.

The view from our dock.

The view from our dock.

Folks ask often how the house is coming along and I have avoided discussing it. The answer is slowly, very slowly, often due to a failure to communicate.

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No Regrets – A Year Later

24 Aug

This week marks one year since we backed out of our driveway in Austin, Texas for a new life in southern Mexico. We pulled a cargo trailer loaded with all our worldly possessions. There were two kayaks, two bicycles, a rug, couch and lots of tools and yarn that we couldn’t live without, or knew we couldn’t replace.

Off we go!

Off we go!

We had gathered information, visited Bacalar, retired from our jobs, burned our bridges, and took a flying leap. For you who have been following us from the beginning, you know that we were so excited. We were off on Lisa and Alex’s big adventure.

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Looking back over the last year, I would say unequivocally that I wouldn’t change a thing. We have had so much fun. For you who are considering your own adventure of any sort, I have a thought.

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Has it been perfect? Not by a long shot. Have we had doubts, fears and disappointments? You betcha. Have we made mistakes? Tons of them.

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A friend who I hadn’t seen in awhile and who knows me well commented on how peaceful and calm I have become. It’s true. We have a word here – tranquilo. (tran key low). It’s the only way to live.

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It’s Kind Of Like Camping Only Better – My Dad Would Have Been So Proud

17 Aug

Five children, a dog, occasionally my grandmother and a cousin or two joined our childhood camping vacations. It was partly economical but also for the love of being outdoors. My father grew up as a Boy Scout and loved all things merit badge. I learned to build and cook on a campfire, make a sling for a broken arm and identify constellations.  His rule was to leave the campsite cleaner than you found it. My father’s admonitions live in my heart to this day.

Being my father’s daughter has served me well for living in Bacalar in the southern Yucatan. It’s a lot like camping, only better. The windows to our home are persianas which do not seal out the world.

Our alarm clock.

Our alarm clock.

We hear birds squawking, dogs barking, the roosters greeting the sunrise and an occasional goat braying. It’s not all at the same time, usually.

We choose not to use air conditioning even in the heat and humidity of the summer. We cope as do most people here by keeping activity to a minimum during the heat of the day, jumping in the lake in the afternoon and if necessary, taking a shower before bed. The night seems to cool down just enough and we are up with the sunrise.

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 With the windows always open, you can feel the shift in the wind which indicates a possible shower rolling in.

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 My dad would have loved Bacalar. This past week was twenty-eight years since his death. I still see his gait in my son, and his stewardship of the earth in myself and my children. I hope my children and grandchildren will someday share stories of their crazy grandmothers who lived in the jungle in Mexico with their windows open.

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The Benefits of Struggling to Learn Spanish

10 Aug

The New York Times recently posted an op-ed called The Benefits of Failing at French. I can relate.

In 1973, with the already aging brain (linguistically speaking) of twenty-one, I began the lifelong journey of learning a second language. I came to Mexico in the fulfillment of a childhood dream to experience my junior year abroad. I lived with a Mexican family who spoke no English. I had classes four hours a day, four days a week and drank mucho cerveza to loosen the tongue. Over the long weekends and breaks, I traveled as much as possible and fell in love with a culture and people that were difficult to explain when I returned to New Jersey.

Sunset in Cozumel.

Sunset in Cozumel.

In the more than forty years that have passed, I have both clung to and completely forgotten my desire to return to Mexico. As I began entertaining thoughts of retirement, memories of living here ignited fireworks and the rest is, shall we say, her-story.

Crossing the border almost a year ago woke the Spanish synapses that were more than a bit rusty. Those old feelings of my brain aching and not being able to remember words in either language came roaring back. I am happy to report that my Spanish has greatly improved in a year. I have resisted studying and have chosen to learn by practicing. I have conversations in Spanish as often as I can and find that my brain hurts less these days. Yesterday I even had a conversation on the phone, which I usually avoid, as there is no opportunity to read lips. I must admit that when friends comment on my improvement, I want to preen my feathers and crow.

Hotel La Semilla in Playa del Carmen from our recent visit.

Hotel La Semilla in Playa del Carmen from our recent visit.

Lisa had no ability to speak Spanish, other than the curse words picked up on a job site, when we arrived last September. Her first vocabulary words were highway signs on the drive down. Her learning approach has been different from mine. She uses a popular set of educational CDs and a workbook that I bought her. She now converses with locals and orders easily in a restaurant. The reason for her skill is that she doesn’t give up and she isn’t afraid to make mistakes. Our friend’s parents call her the parrot because she uses her thirty or so words, hugs them and leaves. They see her progress and love her effort. More than one of us has something to crow about.

Sunrise this week on Laguna Bacalar.

Sunrise this week on Laguna Bacalar.

So I recommend that you read the New York Times article and don’t miss the comments. Our brains need the challenge. Our changing world needs us to understand one another. What better way than to learn another’s language. And I’ve heard that the third language even gets easier, no matter what age you are.

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Bicycle Bacalar – Número Dos

20 Jul

When we arrived in Bacalar, Mexico for the first time almost two years ago, we had our rose-colored glasses on. We saw what we wanted to see, a small eclectic village situated on the most beautiful lake in Mexico. Yes, the streets were bumpy, the houses run down, and there was lots of trash. But that’s Mexico, no? The people were warm and welcoming. We fell in love from the get-go and decided that we could be happy living here.

As we round the corner on our one-year anniversary as full time Bacalareñas, we’ve noticed many changes in our little town. The streets are cleaner. Roads are being repaired and beautification is everywhere.

The number one improvement for me is that there is now a place to recycle plastic. We see people picking up discarded bottles from the roadway. It will take time for recycling to catch on, but I have hopes.

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Lisa is appreciating the new tables and benches recently constructed near Fort San Felipe in the center of town. They are perfect for an afternoon picnic in the shade while enjoying lake breezes.

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These wonderful Mayan carvings have been erected at every intersection for a half mile along the southern road into Bacalar. They are lit at night and each one is unique and beautiful. The stelae pay homage to a rich heritage for visitors and locals alike.

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The road leading out of Bacaler to the north has new street lights, a pedestrian walkway, freshly painted curbs and a modern bus stop. We often see people sitting on the benches watching the world go by.

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Hats off to the new presidente of our municipality, Don Chepe. His heart, vision and hard work have improved the beauty and quality of life for the people of Bacalar. How often can we say that for an elected public official? Bravo.

Emilie Vardaman

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