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Living in Mexico – Settling In

17 Jan

It is the dream of many to retire to a tropical climate in Mexico. After years of saving, research, and selling off our home and possessions in Austin, Texas, Dos Tortas came to be. Our blog tells the story of living on lovely Laguna Bacalar, the second largest lake in Mexico, for two and a half years in preparation for construction. Welcome/bienvenidos to our home….

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Stages of construction.

We purchased the lakefront property in 2012. It was a rough sloping lot with potential, close enough to the town o Bacalar to ride our bikes to the mercado.

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25 meters x 100 meters (.62 acres)

There were many hoops to jump through in order to build in an environmentally sensitive area. An impact study was not in our thoughts as we signed a purchase contract.

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We’re hanging pictures!

Dreams of our crystal blue lake, swimming “out back”, kayaking, and boating danced in our heads. We could see the end result but did not explore adequately the process to get there. But that is behind us as we settle into our new home. In Mexico!

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Our new “couch” was installed on Friday.

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The fountain near the outdoor bathroom is trickling down the rock face.

There are interior details that have yet to be completed. A rooftop patio is on the drawing board. We have enough projects and gardening to keep us busy for a long time. Stay tuned.

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The Adventures of Princesa Luna

10 Jan

It was scary taking our beloved pup Luna to get spayed in a clinic near our home in Mexico. Clearly her body was getting ready to go into heat, so time was of the essence.  Attracting machos for miles in all directions is not our idea of a good time. 

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Cost $300 pesos ($17US)

Our contractor’s wife Nini helps to organize sterilization clinics in Chetumal, thirty minutes from our home. All the work is done by volunteers. The vet drives five hours from Cancun to work for the weekend.

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A little black kitty on the table.

After we arrived and met Dr. Fernando, our fears vanished. Everyone was so kind and gentle with the frightened, hungry animals. The clinics was set up in a private carport. They had clearly done this before.

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Volunteers keep puppies calm.

There were six dogs and a slew of cats waiting their turn. We got the call to come get Luna after two and a half hours. She was groggy but ready to come home.

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Dr. Fernando and his lovely assistant Pili.

Also  for a few dollars, vets tattoo a number in a dog’s ear and create an identification record. Chips don’t work here, as no one can afford the equipment to read them.

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Luna is #47. We now have papers to prove she is ours.

Luna is home and resting with her new pal Mona. Luna’s been asking for a kitty, but for now she gets to play with the neighbor’s cat and her new little stuffed friend. Her eyes are clearer and she is resting comfortably, as are her two mommas.

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Princesa Luna and Mona.

If you wish to read more on sterilization clinics and the street dogs of Bacalar, check out the Perros of Bacalar. We also will take donations for food and support of future clinics if you care to donate, contact me. Have a great week. As always, your comments are appreciated. We also have Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest pages if you care to see more of our lovely Laguna. Search theadventuresofdostortas. DOS TORTAS

 

OMG Driving In Mexico

3 Jan

There wasn’t time to grab the camera as a doble remolque (18-wheeled cab pulling two trailers) passed us on a double yellow line as we both crested a hill! Much like in Japan where buses have the right of way and pull out from the curb without warning…a big ass truck in Mexico can do almost anything.

Most articles about driving in Mexico start with, don’t drive at night. Given the conditions of the roads, we heartily agree. Here are additional considerations.

  • Signage may be nonexistent and if you’re watching for a turn, SLOW down. There is little warning that your turn is coming up.
  • The same goes with road construction (and it is everywhere). The guy waving a flag may give you ten feet of warning to avoid a ten foot drop.
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Luckily it is fairly easy to turn around.

  • Speed limits are a suggestion which makes for a relaxed trip. In three years we’ve seen one cop with radar.
  • It’s always best to drive with a partner if possible. A second pair of eyes notices the man gathering wood along a road with absolutely no shoulder.
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It took us awhile to understand that using rocks to slow traffic is common. This sign says not to leave them in the road. Good idea.

  • A wide shoulder on a two lane road is used to facilitate passing. Pull to the right to let a vehicle pass you OR to allow a car coming at you to pass oncoming traffic. Flashing headlights may provide some warning. Do however watch for pedestrians, bicycles, motos or goats ambling on the shoulder.
  • A vehicle with its left turn signal on is telling you it’s clear to pass. If you want to make a left hand turn, pull to the right shoulder and wait for all lanes to clear. At the same time, if you see a car using turning signals for anything, they’re probably a foreigner.
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A peloton with motorcycle support. A rare sight.

  • Stick to the toll roads if you can afford them. At the same time, they may be as torn up as the libramiento. It’s a flip of the coin.

We are blessed in Bacalar. The road from Cancun to Chetumal may be the best maintained road in Mexico AND it’s free. Hoping your holidays were tranquilo and your new year is full of love. DOS TORTAS

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Standoff With The Neighbors – How It’s Done In Mexico

27 Dec

The politics of land acquisition has a long and bloody history in Mexico. At least no blood was shed yesterday at the property line between us and our neighbors to the south. The policia were called and lots of IPhone video taken. We had our own telenovela (soap opera) going on.

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Local police who’s job it is to keep the peace and prevent bloodshed.

The property line along the Laguna has been drawn and redrawn many times over the years. There are landmarks (stone walls, buildings and fence posts) that have been in place for a long time and provide demarcation where records are sketchy. We have a clear title to our property. When getting permission to build on our lot, a topographer came out with a satellite gizmo and marked our coordinates.  Technology meets history.

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The neighbors take matter into their own hands.

We had met with the property owners more than once and had a handshake agreement as to where the property lines were. When the adult children got involved all communication ceased. Phone calls went unreturned. It was on our plate to resolve the boundaries upon return from NOTB (north of the border). They are claiming another few feet of lake front property. Seriously?!!

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Bringing in some muscle, the palaperos (palapa builders) provide “support”.

We called our builder David who’s command of Spanish is much better than ours, and who had been meeting with government officials to try and get clear markers. He showed up for a showdown. When more talks failed, he called in his gumbas to see that the fence building ceased. But it was Lisa pulling up posts that had both sides laughing. Don’t mess with the Tortas!

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David (right) police (left) neighbors in the middle.

The policia commanded cease and desist on the fence and set an appointment for 11 am Monday morning. I sure hope we can settle things peacefully and move on. The last thing we want is problems with our neighbors.

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Home, la Gripa and Electrical Outage

20 Dec

La gripa is a catch-all phrase used in Mexico for colds and flu. It may or may not include fever and/or the usual symptoms. Mine isn’t serious, no fever, but enough to not feel much like blogging. Also we had a big rain storm last night which took out the electricity until minutes ago. Say no more. 

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The beautiful sky and plains of Chihuahua.

Ours was a whirlwind trip from southern Mexico to Northern California and back. Extenuating circumstances prevented visiting friends and sightseeing. Mostly it was gas, pee, eat, sleep, drive, repeat and not necessarily in that order.

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An early start from Puebla into the mountain pass of the volcano Orizaba.

Once through the mountains of central Mexico, the temperature changed quickly and we were pulling out the shorts. Almost there.

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Rain shower heading out way.

Home sweet home Bacalar. We are recovering from a strenuous trip and bouts of gripa. Lots of fluids, garlic soup and rest. We’re glad to see our puppy who doubled in size while we were gone.

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Sitting on the dock. Lots of cuddles and fish watching with Luna.

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The reason for the trip, Max is one month old.

Happy holidays to you and yours from DOS TORTAS

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Traveling Tortas

13 Dec

Crossing the border at Agua Prieta, across from Douglas, Arizona was the easiest crossing into Mexico from the U.S. we have made yet. The Tortas have been on an epic journey to California to attend the birth of our grandson and bringing Lisa’s mom Alice to live with us in Bacalar. The guards took one look at my white hair and packed truck and said, move along. Gracias a Dios. The ability to speak Spanish always helps. 

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Sunset south of Phoenix, AZ.

Immigration did not make us offload our truck which would have been a major inconvenience.

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Packed to overflowing with “just one more thing”

There have been long days driving and we are so ready to be home in Bacalar. The odometer noted  five thousand miles driven, a few days ago. We’ve been gone almost six weeks.

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Looking south near Bisbee AZ

The mountains of Chihuahua have been beautiful. We have seen lots of Mexican terrain, but none of the culture, museums or people. Lisa and her mom have head colds. We have been pedal to the metal, hotel to hotel and getting lost following outdated maps. We’ll be home to our little house on Laguna Bacalar in a few days. Until next week, stay warm. Peace from DOS TORTAS.

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Mass Shootings or Farmer’s Markets

6 Dec

Bloggers living in Mexico notice with increased interest when scarey stuff happens in the USA. By comparison, Mexico is looking good. 

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Myself, I try to avoid the news. It’s hard to do I admit. Whether online or on TV there’s such a pull to understand the non-understandable. I refuse to be afraid.

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So instead, I will present another aspect of California that hasn’t made the news lately. The Tortas visited two really nice farmer’s markets on our recent trip to California. I always head to the ethnic food vendors. Mediterranean was especially good at both Windsor and Bakersfield markets.

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Olives, dates, tabouli, hummus and pitta bread are all impossible to find in our little corner of Mexico.

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Of course, every Mexican village has the most wonderful mercado. They are filled with hundreds of items you don’t get in the US, fresh coconut water, tree ripened bananas, and plants and pottery that are really, really cheap.

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US-style farmer’s markets are catching on in Mexico where there are large foreign populations. I attended one in Merida and they were selling bread! Mmmmmm. Fortunately or unfortunately one will never appear in Bacalar. We live in a part of Mexico with a very small foreign community. Which is just the way we planned it.

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Green juice vendor in Bacalar.

So if you’re looking to move to Mexico, don’t come because you’re afraid of the US. You’ll bring your fear with you and be equally unhappy here. Just my opinion.

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One Handed Blogging

29 Nov

Holding our new grandson is the sweetest experience.  Our grandmotherly duty starts around 7:30 am with the handoff of Max, allowing the new parents some much needed sleep. 

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Grandma Lisa starting off her day.

Ask any retiree in Mexico what the hardest part about being away from the U.S. is and missing the grands is at the top of the list.

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The Texas grands Sophia and Hunter.

The Tortas will be braving the chill of Northern California for another week before heading south.

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The best places to take a nap, in Grandma’s arms.

The next best thing to being in two places at once is Skype or FaceTime. I remember being a kid and hearing that someday we’d be able to see who we were talking to on the phone. “Yeah right!” You don’t have to be living on beautiful Laguna Bacalar in southern Mexico to be watching your grandkids grow up electronically. What a miraculous time we live in.

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Eleven month old Sophia with Uncle Cullen.

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California Dreamin

22 Nov

After driving three thousand miles across Mexico and up the Baja to Northern California for the birth of our grandson, the Tortas say, “never again” that is of course until the return trip.

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First phase of our trip.

The ferry from Mazatlan to La Paz was not the seventeen hour trip advertised on the website. It was more like twenty-four hours. Geesh.

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Arriving in La Paz on the Sea of Cortez

The ferry ride was an adventure to say the least and the drive up the Baja was as breath taking as any I’ve seen, purple mountains, winding cavernous roads, forests of cactus, huge boulders and ocean vistas.

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Stopping for a little walk and to admire the view.

We arrived in Bakersfield to pack up Lisa’s mom (Everyday Courage). Our grandson, Maxwell Michael Toth was born November 19th, clocking in at 7 lb. 8 oz. and 24″. We are two happy grandmas.

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Grandma Lisa and a less than 24 hour old Max.

We’ll hang out here for awhile before heading south. The goal is to be home by Christmas. We miss our puppy who is growing like a weed, but there’s nothing like grandchildren.

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Everyday Courage

15 Nov

At seventy-two, leaving your home of fifty years to move to Mexico. Making the decision to grab the brass ring and being terrified. “What if….”

Courage, that’s my mother-in-law. Meet Alice, the newest Torta.

Exploring the pyramids of Palenque, January 2014.

Exploring the pyramids of Palenque, January 2014.

Alice visited Bacalar almost two years ago for a month and made the decision that yes, she would move to live with us in Mexico. None of us expected a two year wait for the green light.

Putting a life in storage.

Putting a life in storage.

We are here to pack her things, and hold her hand through a scary, emotional process.

A house full of

A house full of “collections”.

Alice is downsizing considerably. The rule is, if it fits in the truck you can take it. She has ten plastic bins. When they’re full, we’re done.
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Could YOU do it? I’m not sure I could. She can always move back of course. This next year will be a trial period for all of us. An exciting year for sure.

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