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Healing a Not Broken Leg – Isn’t Life Amazing?

25 May

Memorial Day weekend 2013, our daughter was getting married. Life was busy with selling our home, getting rid of most of our possessions and winding down our jobs. We went from crazy busy to retirement life in the jungle of southern Yucatan.

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Life here is not for everyone. We did not want a large English speaking community with all the amenities of the US. Our nearest city and the capital of the state of Quintana Roo (Row) is about a 40 minute drive. Chetumal (pop 260,000) sits on the boarder with Belize and the Bay of Chetumal. It is not a tourist destination in spite of efforts to make it so.

Museum of Mayan Culture

Museum of Mayan Culture

Chetumal is where we go for medical care. Friday was three weeks since my fateful bike accident and time to return to the traumatologist. Don’t let appearances fool. While the buildings look right out of the 1950’s, the care is top notch.

Clinica Independencia

Clinica Independencia

My experience thus far with medical care has been that it’s low tech but very hands on. Doctors take time. It’s not that high tech isn’t available, MRIs, etc are reserved for more serious situations. Dr Diez-Torres removed my cast, gently manipulated my knee, assessing pain and range of motion. He explained using a model what was going on. Our conversation was in both English and Spanish. We looked at the X-rays again and agreed that my leg probably wasn’t broken. He told me to return to normal activity as I was able and use light weights to do leg extensions to build muscle strength. I felt like I was talking to an equal.

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My knee continues to heal. I look forward to swimming and no pain. While life in this corner of the globe is not for everyone, the lack of stress and beauty that abounds makes it perfect for us.

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Today’s Spanish Lesson ¿Dónde está el baño?

18 May

When out and about in the US, one rarely thinks twice about bathrooms, unless you’re at an outdoor venue and forced to use a port-o-potty.

In Japan I once stumbled into a unisex bathroom which was a surprise to say the least.

Japanese Unisex bathrooms contain stalls and urinals.

Japanese Unisex bathrooms contain stalls and urinals.

In the airport bathroom in Istabul there was a sign asking people to please not wash their feet in the sink. International bathrooms are full of cultural experiences.

Istanbul, Turkey

Istanbul, Turkey

You can’t miss this sign at a roadside Mexican restaurant.

Outside a roadside restaurant.

Pull over I gotta go.

Living in Mexico in the 70’s gives me a point of reference for baños. It was so much worse then. Public restrooms were hard to come by and toilet paper, as we know it, was not common (newspaper, comic books). A lesson my grandmother taught me, and every woman in Mexico knows, never leave the house without tissues.

In Bacalar.

In Bacalar.

Today, there are clean functional toilets (most of the time) in Pemex stations where you stop for gas. The trouble is, they charge $3-5 pesos, $.25-.40 per use. It is a clear discrimination against women, since men have no trouble peeing on their tires. I’m not sure what’s up with the whole peeing on the tires thing, but you see it everywhere, pull over and pee on your tires!

Then one day I came across this –

They can't refuse you service.

They can’t refuse you service.

Handing a few coins to the bathroom attendant in the bus station, restaurant, government building, grocery store or hotel is the norm. I figure that I can afford it and it’s a way to circulate money to people who’s income it is. It’s the same for the people that pump your gas, sack your groceries or help you park your car (whether you need it or not).

So when looking for the baño in México, remember to bring your tissue and always have a pocket of change, or you too could find yourself peeing on your tires.

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A Favorite Laguna Bacalar Picture

A Favorite Laguna Bacalar Picture

L’chaim To Life – To A Dear Friend Adiós

11 May

While laid up this week mending a broken leg, I have little of our usually active life in Bacalar to share. No photos, but lots of sadness. Life can be very, very unpredictable and I’m not talking about a broken leg.

Last December I posted Familia Nueva About two good old gals from Texas that Lisa and I met here in Bacalar. They were retired and living in San Miguel de Allende taking a six-week Yucatan holiday.

Who would have imagined that we would meet another couple with the same age spread (12 years) and history (20 years) together AND a blast to be with. Not only did we hang out and visit the sights and sounds of Bacalar, on our return trip from Texas in January, we visited them in San Miguel and got the royal treatment. We stayed in their newly remodeled home, saw the sights of SMA and made plans, over morning coffee, for future joint travels and visits to each other’s homes. Lisa and I returned to southern Yucatan looking forward to seeing them again.

Last Saturday, we received something we never ever expected, Judy’s Facebook obituary. She had died in her sleep Thursday night of a brain aneurism, as near as anyone can tell. She was 51 years old.

One thing we enjoyed while visiting SMA was Nancy and Judy’s wedding video. They had traveled to California last September to make their relationship legal. Lisa and I will be following their footsteps in July.

Life is precious and we only have today. Nancy and Judy lived life to the fullest. Nancy has wonderful memories to sustain her and good family and friends to remind her she is loved. All that other stuff of life suddenly seems not so important – Love each other and God bless.

By the lake in Bacalar.

By the lake in Bacalar.

Judy's beloved rooftop view.

Judy’s beloved rooftop view.

You will be so missed.

You will be so missed.

Feliz Cinco Ya’ll – Take Two

4 May

Due to a mishap over the last few days, I’ve decided to repost my Cinco de Mayo blog from last year. We sure have come a long way in our relocation to Mexico.  On Friday I  went down hard on my bike and have a hairline tibial fracture behind the right knee. I will be in a brace for three weeks. This morning I’m on pain medication and not thinking too clearly. A handsome traumatologist got me seen, xrayed, diagnosed in and out in two hours for less than $200 Xays, brace and medication.

 

Immobile for three weeks. Immobile for three weeks.

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A Repost From 2013

Cinco de Mayo is celebrated in Austin by waving green, white and red Mexican flags. So much so that I once heard someone point to a Mexican flag and refer to it as a “Cinco de Mayo” flag. It’s a day for family, friends, eating tacos, listening to conjunto and drinking cerveza. Few know what the holiday is really about. When living in Mexico, I visited the Fort de Puebla where a fight for independence took place in 1864. The French, with their highly trained forces thought they had a cake walk in taking over Mexico. A rag-tag militia of about 500 strategically placed Mexican soldiers proved them wrong. Mexico’s independence took years of battles with French, Spanish, US, and British troops. It’s no wonder everyone celebrates a win by the underdogs.

But Cinco is a celebration of much more than the Battle of Puebla. It’s the celebration of a strong, proud, independent people who love to celebrate just about anything. As a youngster from New Jersey, I was wary of a picnic in a cemetery for Day of the Dead. It was a delightful day that allowed me to experience another culture in a very personal way. There are birthdays, saint days, quinceñeras, religious holidays, Sunday picnics, and many more events that I hope to learn about and participate in.

We continue to pack containers, take books to Half Price, have dinner with friends and plan our escape. There are no “final” goodbyes. Just about everyone is invited to visit. So if you think that southern Yucatan may be a vacation destination in your future, get your passport, practice your Spanish and bring a “celebration state-of-mind”, and remember your hammock.

Alex Enjoying a Sunny Lake Bacalar Day Alex enjoying a sunny Lake Bacalar day
Sunset on the Bay of Chetumal Sunset on the Bay of Chetumal

Roaming, Rambling, Rumbling

27 Apr

We made a quick trip to Austin this past week. Lisa had a command performance with the Veteran’s Administration and we got to visit kids and grandkids.

A Visit With the Sons

A Visit With the Sons

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The culture shock I felt upon re-entry was challenging. It’s not the first time I’ve experienced the disorienting sensation of not belonging when returning “home”. In the 70’s when I returned from living nine months in Mexico, I didn’t have words to describe it. I was 22 and trying to figure out life. In the 80’s, I again returned to the US after two years of living in Japan. The depression I felt confused me. I WANTED to return, had chosen and looked forward to it, so why was I so sad?

Sophia Aria Fisher and Daddy

Sophia Aria Fisher and Daddy

Easter With Hunter

Easter With Hunter

I think this time, I was overwhelmed by the wealth we have in the US. Our grocery shelves are stocked with so much variety. Ten different kinds of soy milk! I spent so much time in traffic, bumper to bumper. We pay a high price for consumerism. I don’t know where I’m going with all this. Maybe it’s an excuse to share pictures of my grandchildren.

Aren't they Cute?

Aren’t they Cute?

One thing is evident to me, we’re all connected. The choices we make in the US have an impact on the rest of the world. Our appetite for cheap goods creates garbage that piles up in poor countries ill equipped to deal with it.

I don’t have any answers. It feels like a runaway train. We need elected officials who get it. Meanwhile, live your life, be happy, Happy Earth Day everyday.

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The End of The World As We Knew It – September 2013

30 Mar

We were going through some of our things in storage this week and came across our trusty 2013 calendar. It was the “month-at-a-glance” tool that we used to coordinate our busy lives in Austin and ultimately our escape to Mexico. Having worked for the government for many years, I am a planner, coordinator and timeline kinda gal. The calendar which held our to-do lists (camper shell for the truck, paint bedroom, make appointment to get new wills written) has now become a journal of sorts. We were so impatient to get the house sold, pack and be on our way. The details of appointments, purchases and goodbyes seemed endless. We sure were busy.

If it were the end of the world and future archiologists were digging through the rubble and came across this calendar, it would be clear that something important happened in September 2013. The record of a very busy life seemed to mysteriously end the first of September. That of course was when we hit the road, Mexico bound.

It’s good to look back to get perspective as our ability to be happy in the present moment continues to be challenged. Granted, as we wait to close on our property and begin construction, we ARE living in paradise. Gratitude, gratitude, gratitude.

So what exactly is the complaint you might ask? It seems silly, but we are kinda bored. When living in limbo it is difficult to start long term projects. Getting to know people has proven more challenging than we thought. Everyone here seems just as busy in paradise as we were in the States. I guess it’s time to pull up our big girl pants and figure this out.

So if you’re considering a trip to visit us. Now would be a good time.

The. End of the World As We Knew It

The. End of the World As We Knew It

Ain't It The Truth

Ain’t It The Truth

Gratitude, gratitude, gratitude.

Gratitude, gratitude, gratitude.

Harvesting from our property

Harvesting from our property

These Flip-flops are Finally Settled – For Now

9 Mar

Since the beginning of September, the Tortas have been homeless. We’ve been traveling, staying with friends, family, and living out of suitcases. Even paradise has it’s challenges.

While visiting Texas in January, we heard of the availability of a house in Bacalar. It is beautifully furnished, spacious, has two bedrooms, a fully equipped kitchen and overlooks the laguna, all for less than $500US.

The downside was no wifi, but that has been remedied. We moved in February and will bring our trailer and unpack some of our belongings this week. Although the house is completely equipped with about everything we need, our personal chachkas will make it feel more like home. The building process is taking longer than we expected and the ability to settle in our own space and relax has greatly improved our frame of mind. What blessings the universe showers.

We have been meeting with our builder and have preliminary drawings for our house. The next step is the “permisos” or permits. There is an environmental study that needs to take place among others. All will take time.

While we wait, we are ramping up our exercise program and improving our eating. Months of traveling and someone else’s kitchen have taken their toll. Once the actual construction begins, there will be lots to do, even if it’s sitting and watching paint dry.

Our New House

Our New House

From the Front Porch

From the Front Porch

Down to the Laguna

Down to the Laguna

From the Mercado

From the Mercado

Roof View

Roof View

Thought For The Day

Thought For The Day

Road Trip Segundo – Continued

16 Feb

Our friends Nancy and Judy actually live outside of San Miguel in a tiny pueblito named Atotonilco. The church there is considered the “Sistine Chapel” of Mexico. We walked down the street from their house to an experience we could never have had on our own.

Judas' kiss with the devil on his shoulder.

Judas’ kiss with the devil on his shoulder.

Native American cousins to the north.

Native American cousins to the north.

The alters painted in gold leaf were spectacular.

The alters painted in gold leaf were spectacular.

Glittering in the light.

Glittering in the light.

Chapel Atontonilco4

This chapel is a jewel that I am so glad I got a chance to see. Outside of the ruins of Palenque we stumbled upon an equally spectacular (but in a different way) site. When I visited Palenque in 1974, I went to a waterfalls. Not knowing the name or location, we went off on a drive of a lifetime and instead found Aqua Azul.

The water color was unbelievable.

The water color was unbelievable.

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Mini-Niagra Falls

Mini-Niagra Falls

We climbed and climbed.

We climbed and climbed.

Water was chilly. Still wish I had time for a swim.

Water was chilly. Still wish I had time for a swim.

What a spectacular trip we had. Each adventure leads to another. This week the Tortas will be moving into our last stop before our new home. It will be good to be settled at least for awhile. Until next week….

Thought for the day.

Thought for the day.

Holding on to Friendships that Span Time and Distance – The Tortas say Adios

2 Feb
Dear Austin Friends

Dear Austin Friends

Thursday we gathered with Austin friends to share hugs and stories of our new life in Mexico. I am always surprised by the sweet affection of women I have known and worked with for twenty years. There were many promises of visits from these avid blog followers.

Friday morning we squeezed in final moments with our grandchildren before getting on the road for south Texas. The plan was to sleep on this side and hit the border early.

Leaving  McQueeney, Texas

Leaving McQueeney, Texas

Lisa's mom and third Torta Alice with our grandson Hunter

Lisa’s mom and third Torta Alice with our grandson Hunter

We crossed easily at Los Indios, a small border crossing where we were waved through. An hour later we stopped at the aduana and received a minimal inspection. I took my first deep breath of the day as we sailed through immigration. Our theory is that showing our green cards looks very official and clearly states that we are Mexican residents. The fact that we are three older women probably supports that age-old myth that we could not be smugglers.

The drive to San Miguel was smooth, with only one back track. Traveling through the mountains made for a beautiful trip and we arrived on schedule at the home of our friends Judy and Nancy. We leave Tuesday for the pyramids of Palenque and on to Bacalar.

Next week we will report on our stay in San Miguel. Happy Superbowl Sunday all.

Mountains outside of San Luis Potosi

Mountains outside of San Luis Potosi

Over and through.
Over and through.

Our mascota el pato.
Our mascota La Tortita.

The Cobblestones of San Miguel de Allende
The Cobblestones Outside San Miguel de Allende

Missing Texas? Really?

19 Jan

Being visitors in our home country and state has been an unusual experience. With a Walmart on every corner, it is difficult to be interested in the passing landscape of highway travel. Driving in traffic is a universal complaint and a very different experience from Mexico which has its own version of congestion. So what exactly do we miss? Now don’t laugh, it’s the Country Western radio station! Yup, you can’t live in Texas without something rubbing off. I listen to the radio in Mexico, but as in the US, there’s way more chatter than music. I love música mexicana, but I cannot follow the DJ dialogue AT ALL and grow bored and turn it off. We both laughed out loud when we found ourselves b-bopping down the road singing along to music that we didn’t know we missed. After all, we met in a CW bar and started our courtship two-stepping.

So yes, there have been surprises during our visit. One that wasn’t unexpected was the birth of our granddaughter Sophia Aria who made her appearance yesterday. She weighted in at 8lb 2oz. The best part for me was seeing my son fall madly in love with his new daughter. As the father of a two year old son who’s life revolves around all things on four wheels, my son has voiced self doubt at his ability to father a daughter. I think we can set that notion to rest.

Please join me in welcoming the newest Torta.

In love with Sophia

In love with Sophia

Loving Sophia

Diaper changin Daddy 

The Newest Torta

Our First Granddaughter

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