Tag Archives: Laguna Bacalar

Aqua-Terra Firma-Cuisine

20 Mar

Visitors think that three to five days is about right for a trip to Laguna Bacalar Mexico. Of course USers never have adequate vacation, so they exhaust themselves trying to relax and do it all. There is a British couple and their three children renting next door for two months. Now that’s a vacation!

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AQUA
Topping a to-do list is all things water. Swimming is obvious, but kayaking, boating (motor and sail), stand-up paddle and wind surfing are readily available. There is also a must visit to Cenote Azul, a unique swimming experience.

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Cenote Azul also provides a cuisine destination.

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Sunrise Kayaking

TERRA FIRMA

If water sports are not your favorite, maybe land activities such as climbing pyramids (with monkey viewing) bird watching, visiting a museum in a genuine pirate fort or a walking tour of small town Mexico will interest you.

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Howler monkeys rocked the jungle when we visited Dzibanche

CUISINE

Let us not forget activities of the culinary sort.

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Chema, owner extraordinaire of La Playita, eat-drink-swim, best of Bacalar

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Eating at Hotel Laguna, best view in town.

The most important activity by far is not an activity at all, it’s spending serious time DOING NOTHING. Whether it’s kicking back on our roof, sunning on the dock or taking a nap in the hammock, a trip to Bacalar must include time to listen to the quiet and enjoy the breeze.

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Luna knows the fine art of siesta

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Up on the roof

So you see, a visit to Bacalar can not possibly fit into 3-5 days. And this isn’t ALL of it. Please share the blog with friends on Facebook and as always, your comments are appreciated. DOS TORTAS

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Reader Updates

6 Mar

For the last few months we have blogged about the standoff with neighbors, the house construction, and my fall. So what the heck’s going on? Time to spill the beans. 

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Roof Porch

Our lovely roof porch is ready for furniture, plants, comfy cushions, a ceiling fan and lighting. I try not to be in a hurry and allow a space to speak to me. The accessories will show up, along with my kitchen stools, all in good time.

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Kitchen Cabinets

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Bedroom Artwork

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New Dresser Drawers

All woodwork is custom made from locally harvested hardwood cedar.  We have bathroom, living room and studio shelves left. The carpintero is a master. He moves at his own pace and complains weekly about the difficulty of the work. The bathroom shelves will be curved. This week he scratched his head while taking measurements and said, “pero sí se puede“, but yes, it can be done. He then preens when I tell him that he is just the man for the challenge.

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“Goat”Fence

Ah, the neighbors…we put up what is known as a goat fence on the lower level of the property to allow Luna to be outside off leash and unable to escape. Apparently the neighbors thought is was some sort of claim to their property and tore it down. The municipality will not override the federal marker in the laguna without going through channels, even though we have tons of supporting evidence that it is in the wrong place. Channels take time. I went over to explain to the workers next door that the fence is for the dog only. We’ll see what happens.

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The Goddess Kwan Yin

My hip is vastly improved since my fall six weeks ago. I am without pain and I’ve returned to my usual exercise routine of stretching, going to the gym and daily swimming. Lisa’s mom has moved into her own house and things are quiet. Time to finish unpacking and settle in. Life is good. DOS TORTAS

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The Best Day Ever

28 Feb

This week included the fun celebration of my birthday. I love turning 64 and all the learning opportunities that come with it. We had guests visiting from Austin and it was delightful to see their eyes sparkle as they took in our home and our laguna. Photos can’t compare with direct experience.

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Alex and Isa taking selfies at Restaurant La Playita

The fall I took a month ago limited the activities available to us for the day. I decided against visiting the prison in Chetumal where prisoners make and sell hammocks and other artesanias. Too much walking. I’ve also wanted to take my mother-in-law to Mahahual on the Caribbean. There’s a lovely malecón/boardwalk, and we pass an organic farm on the way home. Again, too much walking. So with our friend David driving, we went to visit the Mennonite community west of Bacalar.

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David took us to visit a family that he had worked with previously. The dad is an ace mechanic. We got to take some pictures with the family. They gave us homemade cheese and rolls. The Mennonites speak high German and enough Spanish to bring their wares to market.

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Cow’s milk cheese and homemade rolls made a tasty lunch.

Life is simple and that includes transportation.

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Horse-pulled buggies with blond, blue eyed children checking us out.

The afternoon wrapped up back at home with a birthday cake among friends.

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Mocha tres leches mmmmm.

It was such a sweet day. And truth be told. Everyday is the best day of my life.

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Falling For Life in Mexico – Literally

24 Jan

Multitasking actually means not fully paying attention to ANYTHING. So this week when I simultaneously stepped over a two foot high curb while looking for oncoming traffic, it’s not surprising that I caught my toe and went down on hip and elbow. 

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All sunrise shots taken from the porch this week.

I have fallen three times since moving to Mexico two and a half years ago. Leading an active, adventurous life involves risk.

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The first time I fell was a perfect storm of bald bicycle tires, gravel, a hill and a curve. The doctor diagnosed a fracture of the femur and put me in a soft cast for six weeks. We never saw evidence on an x-ray so who knows.

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The second fall was during a hike in San Miguel de Allende while visiting my friend Nancy last summer. While crossing a muddy creek, I slipped and went down hard on my knee. Again we had a trip to the ER, x-rays, swelling and additions to our collection of ace bandages.

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These hikers were way better prepared than I with boots and walking poles.

Thank God for the loving support of my wife, MIL and friends in Bacalar. The loan of a walker helps me to stay off the ankle and our stairs will keep me housebound for a week or so.

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This sweet little ride has seen better days.

I am also grateful for the extensive exercise we do, yoga, calisthenics and recently added strength training. It could have been so much worse. Living an adventurous life is worth preparing for.

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Living in Mexico – Settling In

17 Jan

It is the dream of many to retire to a tropical climate in Mexico. After years of saving, research, and selling off our home and possessions in Austin, Texas, Dos Tortas came to be. Our blog tells the story of living on lovely Laguna Bacalar, the second largest lake in Mexico, for two and a half years in preparation for construction. Welcome/bienvenidos to our home….

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Stages of construction.

We purchased the lakefront property in 2012. It was a rough sloping lot with potential, close enough to the town o Bacalar to ride our bikes to the mercado.

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25 meters x 100 meters (.62 acres)

There were many hoops to jump through in order to build in an environmentally sensitive area. An impact study was not in our thoughts as we signed a purchase contract.

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We’re hanging pictures!

Dreams of our crystal blue lake, swimming “out back”, kayaking, and boating danced in our heads. We could see the end result but did not explore adequately the process to get there. But that is behind us as we settle into our new home. In Mexico!

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Our new “couch” was installed on Friday.

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The fountain near the outdoor bathroom is trickling down the rock face.

There are interior details that have yet to be completed. A rooftop patio is on the drawing board. We have enough projects and gardening to keep us busy for a long time. Stay tuned.

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Mass Shootings or Farmer’s Markets

6 Dec

Bloggers living in Mexico notice with increased interest when scarey stuff happens in the USA. By comparison, Mexico is looking good. 

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Myself, I try to avoid the news. It’s hard to do I admit. Whether online or on TV there’s such a pull to understand the non-understandable. I refuse to be afraid.

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So instead, I will present another aspect of California that hasn’t made the news lately. The Tortas visited two really nice farmer’s markets on our recent trip to California. I always head to the ethnic food vendors. Mediterranean was especially good at both Windsor and Bakersfield markets.

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Olives, dates, tabouli, hummus and pitta bread are all impossible to find in our little corner of Mexico.

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Of course, every Mexican village has the most wonderful mercado. They are filled with hundreds of items you don’t get in the US, fresh coconut water, tree ripened bananas, and plants and pottery that are really, really cheap.

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US-style farmer’s markets are catching on in Mexico where there are large foreign populations. I attended one in Merida and they were selling bread! Mmmmmm. Fortunately or unfortunately one will never appear in Bacalar. We live in a part of Mexico with a very small foreign community. Which is just the way we planned it.

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Green juice vendor in Bacalar.

So if you’re looking to move to Mexico, don’t come because you’re afraid of the US. You’ll bring your fear with you and be equally unhappy here. Just my opinion.

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One Handed Blogging

29 Nov

Holding our new grandson is the sweetest experience.  Our grandmotherly duty starts around 7:30 am with the handoff of Max, allowing the new parents some much needed sleep. 

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Grandma Lisa starting off her day.

Ask any retiree in Mexico what the hardest part about being away from the U.S. is and missing the grands is at the top of the list.

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The Texas grands Sophia and Hunter.

The Tortas will be braving the chill of Northern California for another week before heading south.

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The best places to take a nap, in Grandma’s arms.

The next best thing to being in two places at once is Skype or FaceTime. I remember being a kid and hearing that someday we’d be able to see who we were talking to on the phone. “Yeah right!” You don’t have to be living on beautiful Laguna Bacalar in southern Mexico to be watching your grandkids grow up electronically. What a miraculous time we live in.

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Eleven month old Sophia with Uncle Cullen.

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Starting A Whole New Chapter

20 Sep

Arriving at the doctors office, I found the place packed. Doctors in Mexico have evening and Saturday hours as a norm. My doctor’s wife is also a doctor and they have alternating schedules to share care of their young children. I think that’s pretty cool.

It didn’t take me long to realize that the crowd was due to the fact that no one goes to the doctor alone in Mexico. The office next to Dr Rosaldo is that of an OB/GYN. A young woman and her husband came out and half the room stood up. Grandparents, et. al. were there for the news, “it’s a girl”. The family also seemed to know everyone in the room. Heads nodded and congratulations were expressed. The woman sitting next to me quietly leaned over and shared that the couple had an eleven year old daughter and were hoping for a boy. I thought I detected a less than enthusiastic response.

Our daughter moved into her third trimester. She is expecting a boy. Myself I never wanted to know ahead of time. It felt like spoiling Christmas morning to me.

From a few months ago. Aren't they lovely?

From a few months ago. Aren’t they lovely?

This week we head to Merida for Lisa’s back surgery. It’s a long story going back to a military airborne accident. There’s a time when life turns into pain management and you know you’re ready for more extreme measures. Now is that time.

After my swim across the Laguna. My cheerleader.

After my swim across the Laguna. My cheerleader of twenty-one years, Lisa.

When we return to Bacalar for physical therapy and recovery, it will be to our new home. Yesterday, with the help of our project manager, David, we moved the trailer that accompanied us on our sojourn two years ago.

Anyone need to buy a trailer?

Anyone need to buy a trailer?

Within minutes our workers had offloaded our couch, artwork and many other things we hadn’t seen since Texas. ¡Qué emoción! to see the empty trailer.

Thank you David!

Thank you David!

David and I spent the afternoon unpacking. Part of Lisa’s therapy will be to organize and create order, a task she excels at and loves.

The pantry fills.

The pantry fills.

We have the promise of several weeks of meal delivery which will help immensely. I haven’t seen my “kitchen” in two years (dishes, pots and pans).

The stairway to heaven finished.

The stairway to heaven finished.

Send your prayers and good thoughts. I will do my best to post on FACEBOOK. We are starting a whole new chapter in a new home. DOS TORTAS

Please like, comment, share.
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The Swim Across Laguna Bacalar

21 Jun

Lisa and I came to live on beautiful Laguna Bacalar for quite different reasons, she for a boat, and I, to SWIM. Yesterday was the tenth annual open-water swim across the Laguna. With over eleven-hundred participants competing in two days of events, Bacalar is overflowing with energy and people from all over Mexico, Belize and the U.S. The weather was perfect with water temperature in the low 80’s.

#637

Getting marked #637

I have been training for weeks building up to the three-quarter mile event. My friend Polly and I did a practice swim last week and I felt relaxed and confident.

Colorful vendors plying their wares.

Colorful vendors plying their wares.

Of course we had cheerleaders.

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Fellow expats Pat and Rick make up the Bacalar cheering section.

Boats ferried participants across the Laguna to swim, on mass back to waiting family and friends. It’s not my first open water swim. All those churning bodies and kicking feet can be a bit disconcerting.

Making my way out of the water and through the crowd.

Making my way out of the water and through the crowd.

34:25 not bad

My time 34:25.

My biggest supporter.

My biggest supporter.

Later in the evening there was an awards ceremony. I was hoping for a trophy, but the competition in my age category was stiff and I did not place. First place winner finished in 22:37. Wow! Lovely to see so many older participants.

My competition.

My competition.

Local children put on a dance performance to much appreciation from the crowd.

 

The show stopper of the evening was my friend and fellow bacalareña Polly who won in the female over seventy category. Beside her was the first place winner in the Paralympic group AND oldest man. He’s eighty years old and a double amputee from Mexico City. image It was a great day and I’m not even half dead today! I promise an update on house construction next week. With walls going up and the roof just weeks away, it’s time to go shopping for tile, lighting fixtures and everything else that goes into a new house. As always, your comments are appreciated. DOS TORTAS

The Adventures of Dos Tortas

The Adventures of Dos Tortas

Exploring Bacalar On Foot

29 Mar

My favorite way to explore any place is by walking. It’s a chance to savor the sights, sounds and smells. Bacalar is quite compact, so it is an easy distance to meander, allowing whim to lead. Last night’s tormenta left streets washed away and electrical wires down. The trees and flowers weren’t complaining however and everything looked green and bright, the way it does after a good drenching.

Bogavilla of all colors are blooming year round.

Bogavilla of all colors are blooming year round.

It’s also banana season in southern Mexico with large bunches hanging in every yard.

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This bunch came down in the heavy downpour.

This bunch fell down in the heavy downpour.

Along my walk, I admired this beautiful stone wall that was recently completed. It is amazing to me that a wall is built on property where there is no house! In some instances, I’ve seen narrow doors in a thick wall in front of an empty lot that will make future construction almost impossible. I’ve yet to figure it out.

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Onward toward the mercado. There is a large Mennonite community around Bacalar. They are known for their cheese production and handmade furniture. These lovely chairs were for sale at about $25US each. This robust gentleman had to show me how well the chairs were made by wiggling his behind in the seat, which made everyone laugh. The Mennonite man even smiled, I think.

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The mercado was busy. There are a lot of out-of-state vehicles in town as we lead up to Semana Santa, Holy Week and Easter, which swells Bacalar to capacity and then some. All hotels and hostels will be full to overflowing.

The Mayan women have their patio eggs and backyard veggies.

The Mayan women have their patio eggs and backyard veggies.

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My next stop is the juice bar. It’s new and they offer a mean green drink, a bit sweet put perfect refreshment after a walk.

$1.50 for a half liter.

$1.50 for a half liter.

I was pleased to see early corn available. The guy said it was grown local, a peso an ear (.07). I bought five and he threw in a freebie. The corn turned out to be quite sweet. Mexico banned GMO corn, so the ears are small. Together with the black beans left from dinner and the tomatoes and cilantro from the mercado, I made a great fresh corn and black bean salad for lunch. Yum.

I couldn’t resist a shot of these lovely watermelons. It would have been a bit difficult to carry and besides I had one home on the counter.

Another Mennonite family.

Another Mennonite family.

I had a conversation with a Mennonite woman selling tomatoes and peppers. She spoke English having lived in Belize and complained that she found Spanish difficult to learn. She told me that she has eleven children and her mother had sixteen, all still living. She was fascinated that I only had three children. I wished that I had more time to stay and talk to her. Hopefully I’ll see her again.

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I learned that going for a walk with no destination or plan can turn a grumpy morning into an awesome day. The ingredients for lunch were a bonus. It’s easy here with a smile and a hug to connect. I bet it would work where you live too. Let us know. DOS TORTAS

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Emilie Vardaman

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