Tag Archives: Laguna Bacalar

One Handed Blogging

29 Nov

Holding our new grandson is the sweetest experience.  Our grandmotherly duty starts around 7:30 am with the handoff of Max, allowing the new parents some much needed sleep. 

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Grandma Lisa starting off her day.

Ask any retiree in Mexico what the hardest part about being away from the U.S. is and missing the grands is at the top of the list.

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The Texas grands Sophia and Hunter.

The Tortas will be braving the chill of Northern California for another week before heading south.

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The best places to take a nap, in Grandma’s arms.

The next best thing to being in two places at once is Skype or FaceTime. I remember being a kid and hearing that someday we’d be able to see who we were talking to on the phone. “Yeah right!” You don’t have to be living on beautiful Laguna Bacalar in southern Mexico to be watching your grandkids grow up electronically. What a miraculous time we live in.

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Eleven month old Sophia with Uncle Cullen.

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Starting A Whole New Chapter

20 Sep

Arriving at the doctors office, I found the place packed. Doctors in Mexico have evening and Saturday hours as a norm. My doctor’s wife is also a doctor and they have alternating schedules to share care of their young children. I think that’s pretty cool.

It didn’t take me long to realize that the crowd was due to the fact that no one goes to the doctor alone in Mexico. The office next to Dr Rosaldo is that of an OB/GYN. A young woman and her husband came out and half the room stood up. Grandparents, et. al. were there for the news, “it’s a girl”. The family also seemed to know everyone in the room. Heads nodded and congratulations were expressed. The woman sitting next to me quietly leaned over and shared that the couple had an eleven year old daughter and were hoping for a boy. I thought I detected a less than enthusiastic response.

Our daughter moved into her third trimester. She is expecting a boy. Myself I never wanted to know ahead of time. It felt like spoiling Christmas morning to me.

From a few months ago. Aren't they lovely?

From a few months ago. Aren’t they lovely?

This week we head to Merida for Lisa’s back surgery. It’s a long story going back to a military airborne accident. There’s a time when life turns into pain management and you know you’re ready for more extreme measures. Now is that time.

After my swim across the Laguna. My cheerleader.

After my swim across the Laguna. My cheerleader of twenty-one years, Lisa.

When we return to Bacalar for physical therapy and recovery, it will be to our new home. Yesterday, with the help of our project manager, David, we moved the trailer that accompanied us on our sojourn two years ago.

Anyone need to buy a trailer?

Anyone need to buy a trailer?

Within minutes our workers had offloaded our couch, artwork and many other things we hadn’t seen since Texas. ¡Qué emoción! to see the empty trailer.

Thank you David!

Thank you David!

David and I spent the afternoon unpacking. Part of Lisa’s therapy will be to organize and create order, a task she excels at and loves.

The pantry fills.

The pantry fills.

We have the promise of several weeks of meal delivery which will help immensely. I haven’t seen my “kitchen” in two years (dishes, pots and pans).

The stairway to heaven finished.

The stairway to heaven finished.

Send your prayers and good thoughts. I will do my best to post on FACEBOOK. We are starting a whole new chapter in a new home. DOS TORTAS

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The Swim Across Laguna Bacalar

21 Jun

Lisa and I came to live on beautiful Laguna Bacalar for quite different reasons, she for a boat, and I, to SWIM. Yesterday was the tenth annual open-water swim across the Laguna. With over eleven-hundred participants competing in two days of events, Bacalar is overflowing with energy and people from all over Mexico, Belize and the U.S. The weather was perfect with water temperature in the low 80’s.

#637

Getting marked #637

I have been training for weeks building up to the three-quarter mile event. My friend Polly and I did a practice swim last week and I felt relaxed and confident.

Colorful vendors plying their wares.

Colorful vendors plying their wares.

Of course we had cheerleaders.

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Fellow expats Pat and Rick make up the Bacalar cheering section.

Boats ferried participants across the Laguna to swim, on mass back to waiting family and friends. It’s not my first open water swim. All those churning bodies and kicking feet can be a bit disconcerting.

Making my way out of the water and through the crowd.

Making my way out of the water and through the crowd.

34:25 not bad

My time 34:25.

My biggest supporter.

My biggest supporter.

Later in the evening there was an awards ceremony. I was hoping for a trophy, but the competition in my age category was stiff and I did not place. First place winner finished in 22:37. Wow! Lovely to see so many older participants.

My competition.

My competition.

Local children put on a dance performance to much appreciation from the crowd.

 

The show stopper of the evening was my friend and fellow bacalareña Polly who won in the female over seventy category. Beside her was the first place winner in the Paralympic group AND oldest man. He’s eighty years old and a double amputee from Mexico City. image It was a great day and I’m not even half dead today! I promise an update on house construction next week. With walls going up and the roof just weeks away, it’s time to go shopping for tile, lighting fixtures and everything else that goes into a new house. As always, your comments are appreciated. DOS TORTAS

The Adventures of Dos Tortas

The Adventures of Dos Tortas

Exploring Bacalar On Foot

29 Mar

My favorite way to explore any place is by walking. It’s a chance to savor the sights, sounds and smells. Bacalar is quite compact, so it is an easy distance to meander, allowing whim to lead. Last night’s tormenta left streets washed away and electrical wires down. The trees and flowers weren’t complaining however and everything looked green and bright, the way it does after a good drenching.

Bogavilla of all colors are blooming year round.

Bogavilla of all colors are blooming year round.

It’s also banana season in southern Mexico with large bunches hanging in every yard.

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This bunch came down in the heavy downpour.

This bunch fell down in the heavy downpour.

Along my walk, I admired this beautiful stone wall that was recently completed. It is amazing to me that a wall is built on property where there is no house! In some instances, I’ve seen narrow doors in a thick wall in front of an empty lot that will make future construction almost impossible. I’ve yet to figure it out.

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Onward toward the mercado. There is a large Mennonite community around Bacalar. They are known for their cheese production and handmade furniture. These lovely chairs were for sale at about $25US each. This robust gentleman had to show me how well the chairs were made by wiggling his behind in the seat, which made everyone laugh. The Mennonite man even smiled, I think.

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The mercado was busy. There are a lot of out-of-state vehicles in town as we lead up to Semana Santa, Holy Week and Easter, which swells Bacalar to capacity and then some. All hotels and hostels will be full to overflowing.

The Mayan women have their patio eggs and backyard veggies.

The Mayan women have their patio eggs and backyard veggies.

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My next stop is the juice bar. It’s new and they offer a mean green drink, a bit sweet put perfect refreshment after a walk.

$1.50 for a half liter.

$1.50 for a half liter.

I was pleased to see early corn available. The guy said it was grown local, a peso an ear (.07). I bought five and he threw in a freebie. The corn turned out to be quite sweet. Mexico banned GMO corn, so the ears are small. Together with the black beans left from dinner and the tomatoes and cilantro from the mercado, I made a great fresh corn and black bean salad for lunch. Yum.

I couldn’t resist a shot of these lovely watermelons. It would have been a bit difficult to carry and besides I had one home on the counter.

Another Mennonite family.

Another Mennonite family.

I had a conversation with a Mennonite woman selling tomatoes and peppers. She spoke English having lived in Belize and complained that she found Spanish difficult to learn. She told me that she has eleven children and her mother had sixteen, all still living. She was fascinated that I only had three children. I wished that I had more time to stay and talk to her. Hopefully I’ll see her again.

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I learned that going for a walk with no destination or plan can turn a grumpy morning into an awesome day. The ingredients for lunch were a bonus. It’s easy here with a smile and a hug to connect. I bet it would work where you live too. Let us know. DOS TORTAS

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Life Returning to Normal – Whatever That Means

8 Mar

The Tortas have returned to Bacalar after two weeks in cold, drizzle and fog. We loved visiting with friends and family, but we didn’t get the usual lovely Austin early spring. The day after we left, the city was shut down with freezing temperatures and ice. Whew!

Travel is tiring no matter how well the trip goes. Even the young adults sitting behind us on the plane chanting “Cancun, Cancun!” didn’t put a damper on our mood. Earplugs helped.

The sunset leaving Tulum heading home to Bacalar.

The sunset leaving Tulum heading home to Bacalar.

Returning to our paradise means kicking our house construction into high gear. We have met with our architect and a three week deadline is ticking to complete the structural plans. It was fun to talk sky lights, niches and ceiling fan placement. We will walk the property on Tuesday with our builder to discuss house placement tweaks to optimize the view and air flow. While it seems that it has taken an inordinately long time to build this house, blessings can come in disguise. We are finally clear on what we want and the universe is getting onboard.

A built-in cabinet that we will incorporate into the house design.

A built-in cabinet that we will incorporate into the house design.

A huge blessing is the current dollar to peso exchange rate. As we prepare to transfer money to our Mexican bank account, the dollar is the strongest it’s been in 22 years. It means  that our cost to build will be less than when we arrived in 2013. Another blessing being showered on The Tortas.

Sunday morning sunrise over Laguna Bacalar.

Sunday morning sunrise over Laguna Bacalar.

We are happy to be settling back into our routine of exercise, meditation and our daily to-do list…make a dentist appointment, schedule maintenance on the truck, clean out the refrigerator, etc. It’s a simple life and extremely satisfying.
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The Artist Next Door

1 Feb

“Art has so many sides, so many possibilities.” These wise words posted by one of our blog followers inspired me to continue sharing the artistry that is Bacalar. Christmas Eve we met our neighbors Abraham and Isabel. Abraham is a stone and wood sculptor with his work currently on display at a local resort. We spent a fun day recently oooing and ahhhing and generally being inspired by Abraham’s work.

Abraham Illescas

Abraham Illescas

The pieces are viewed best by walking round to experience all sides. Clearly this is not the perfect venue. The stone makes you want to caress the coolness, smooth and rough. Abraham “finds” stones, or maybe they find him and works to release the beauty within.
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Abraham is working on an installation for the Modern Art Museum in Mexico City in a few months. At the same time, all pieces are for sale, a common struggle of all full-time artists.

Wouldn't this piece look wonderful in your garden?

Wouldn’t this beauty look wonderful in your garden?

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This is my favorite piece, carved from a stone found holding open a door in a small Yucatan hotel. Maybe its forever home is my yet-to-be built house, displayed with the perfect lighting in my living room .
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Abraham and Isabel sat with us at dinner last weekend. They wave when they see me out on my bike. It has been really fun getting to know them and continuing to open my eyes to the artistry in Bacalar.

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A Literary Suggestion for the Mexico Bound

11 Jan

Bacalareños had a quiet Saturday night. The long holiday vacation is over with adults back to work and the children in school. The cool weather and rain had the perros curled up and quiet until the rooster alarm clock went off this morning. We cherish these mornings.

Rainy Sunday morning.

Rainy Sunday morning.

I’ve been hearing from readers about adventurous plans to travel or retire to Mexico. I thought you might enjoy a reading suggestion to pass the time until your trip.

On my night table is The Lacuna by Barbara Kinsolver.

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The main character tells of life growing up with his Mexican mother and his relationship with Frieda Kalo and Diego Rivera.

Artists of Mexico.

Artists of Mexico.

As a young adult he returns to seek out his US father and ends up living in Asheville, NC. of all places. My brother lives in Asheville and I’ve visited many times, however familiarity with the city is not a requirement to enjoy the book.

I found The Lacuna slow to engage but persisted after I saw it included among the coffee table collection at La Casa de los Venados in Valladolid. If the owners of this amazing art collection thought enough to place it front and center in a room where there are no accidents, I decided to give it a second go.

All things Mexico.

All things Mexico.

The largest private collection of Mexican folk art.

The largest private collection of Mexican folk art in the world.

Our reclusive protagonist develops into a writer of Mexican ancient history and weaver of stories that capture the hearts of post WW I, communist fearing Americans. I cannot tell you the ending, as I am within pages of finishing myself. It feels much like the story of Dos Tortas, off to a slow start, but now within days of receiving our permission to build our retirement home. How perfect a life reflection. DOS TORTAS
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En Bacalar It’s El Parque (The Park)

28 Dec

In the colonial cities throughout much of Mexico, the town square is called the zócalo. The zócalo is located in the old center of the city and is a multi-purpose destination. On one side is usually the cathedral. Government buildings such as the governor’s palace or a museum flank another quadrant. Many are resplendent with portales, arched walkways with outdoor cafes to nosh and people watch. They are the place to see and be seen. I remember sitting on the zocalo in Oaxaca watching the teens circle, boys in one direction, girls in the other. The aunties on benches served as chaperones. Lord are those days gone forever! Welcome to our humble park.

The gazebo houses dance classes, tai chi, health fairs and games of tag.

The wonderful gazebo, in the center of the park houses dance classes, tai chi, health fairs and games of tag .

Bacalar’s town square is called el parque. On Friday night it is hopping. Families come to let the kids play, buy a treat and mingle with the tourists.
imageThe parque is also where children put on school presentations and holidays are celebrated.
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A walk around the outside of the park starts on the north where several small restaurants attract mostly tourists with regional cuisine and hamburgers.

Notice the bilingual sign.

Notice the bilingual sign. Bicycles provide transportation.

In the northeast corner is an office building devoted to tourism. It is newly painted with colorful murals.

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To the east is the pirate fort overlooking the Laguna. Young Guatemalan girls sell their wares in its shadow. These two wanted “three dollars” to take their picture. With lots of giggling, they got five pesos each.

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View from the fort and museum 

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On the southwest corner, local artists sell wonderful jewelry and wind chimes made from shells found in the laguna. I love to visit to see their latest creations. Shop here to take home that special keepsake.
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Continuing around the park you pass the ATMs and on to the municiple offices. It’s time to pay 2015 property taxes. If paid by the end of December there’s a 25% discount!
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I hope you enjoyed our little walk in the park. It’s our favorite place to hang out. Did I mention it has wifi? Love our little town.
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Holiday Minimalism

11 Dec

In the 1980s I was at home with three young children and a big house. My mother wasn’t the best housekeeper and to say my skills were lacking is an understatement. As I struggled to stay on top of “things” I came across the book, Clutter’s Last Stand by Don Aslett. Don had worked his way through college cleaning houses and upon graduation discovered a far more lucrative business than his original degree provided.  His ideas about having less to clean and organize resonated strongly. I also belonged to a Unity Church which taught the principle of flow. If you own something that you don’t need, let it go and what you DO need will come to you. Between the two, I started on the road to a minimalist lifestyle, or so I thought.

Sunrise of the week.

Sunrise of the week.

Moving to Mexico provided an opportunity to downsize in a big way. We sold our house and reduced everything into a 6×10 trailer pulled by an over stuffed truck. Two bicycles, two kayaks and a living room rug were strapped on top. They were all things we thought we needed to begin life anew.

Pulling out of the drive in Austin Texas to live our dream in Mexico.

Pulling out of the drive in Austin Texas to live our dream in Mexico 2013.

We had multiple garage sales and shipped “family heirlooms” to adult children, took loads to thrift stores and learned to let go, let go, let go. And still we hauled away more possessions than we needed. For the past year most of them are still stored in the trailer. We don’t even remember what we own any more.

The house we are building is about 900 square feet, larger than I originally envisioned, huge by some standards, impossible by others. We are still challenged by acquiring “stuff”. It’s the American way and deeply ingrained. And so easy to do.

The clouds enchant.

The clouds enchant.

I recently came across a website that encourages minimalism and was reminded of the original book that started the “less is more” way of thinking for me. So whether an international move is in your cards or a desire to free up your life, time and money, I suggest turning off the TV ads advertising the latest deal and try buying less, or NOTHING this holiday season. Trust me, it can be done.

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On a recent trip to Cancun we met Mercedes and Ramon, owners of Bed and Breakfast Poblenou in Barcelona Spain. They sat at our table in a crowded dining room and were visiting Mexico for a little vacation. Who’s up for a trip to Barcelona? Me, me, ME!

Our new friends from Barcelona.

Our new friends from Barcelona.

Jardín (Garden) De Venus

7 Dec

This week Lisa and I are settling into our new place. Yesterday I took off for an afternoon kayak. The laguna was calm. The sky was blue. Big white clouds had gray under bellies with two rainbows splitting the sunshine from the impending shower. As soon as I hit the dock to tie up, the sky opened with big raindrops pummeling everything. So much beauty to be grateful for.

Sky after a brief shower.

Sky after a brief shower.

As a blogger in paradise, I have been receiving inquiries as to places to stay in Bacalar. What a great excuse to explore some of the many hostels and hotelitos available. Visitors to Bacalar range from European back packers to weekenders from Mexico City.

Garden of Venus

Garden of Venus

The Garden of Venus is a delightful little get-away for the economically minded traveler. It is within walking distance of central Bacaler. Meet Olga, owner and operator extraordinaire.

Meet the Goddess herself - Olga.

Meet the Goddess herself – Olga.

Small rooms, a camper and tents are available for about $25us per night. There is a communal kitchen, bathroom and shower.

The kitchen is a place to make friends and tell travel stories.

The outdoor kitchen is a place to make friends and tell travel stories.

There are kayaks and boat tours and a lovely little beach for swimming.

Beach

Beach

You also can’t beat the ever changing view from the dock.

One of the many changing faces of the laguna.

One of the many changing faces of the laguna.

Bacalar has new hotels popping up every day. What fun to explore and take my followers along for the ride. The Garden of Venus is a small word-of-mouth operation that can be found on Facebook.

Sunrise of the week.

Sunrise of the week.

 

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Emilie Vardaman

travel and random thoughts

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