Even Frida got in the picture on our Free Walking Tour of Bacalar.
In three years since my post, our sleepy village has grown considerably. New hotels and restaurants pop up daily. There were two articles in the international news this week that mentioned Bacalar as a vacation destination. I cringe. Please stay home.
Visitors on yesterday’s walking tour were from Spain, Ireland, Australia, and Canada. Rarely do USers come here. It’s too far from Cancun and people do not have enough vacation time.
Yesterday in the Centro there was a Body Painting Festival. It was put on by a group I sketch with on Thursday evenings.
My friend and full-time resident and artista extraordinaria Yolanda
The phases of the moon over the Laguna.
The body as canvas.
So much detail. Very Mayan.
A great time was had by all. I love hanging out with these folks. We make art together. As Bacalar grows, not all things have to be a drain on the community and the environment. People coming together to express love and art has to be a good thing right? DOS TORTAS
I thought I’d update a few pictures of my mother-in-law’s tiny house. It’s been one of my most popular blog posts.
Entrance
All is well. Just a stumble. 😂 I even predicted it.
Tiny House Plans
Alice has been visiting California and missing her cozy nest. Her kitty is also missing her. I think I know more of what it feels like to be a house sitter as Lisa is away as well. Whatever you do this week, make it an adventure.
I have experienced typhoons in Japan, hurricanes in Texas and lightning in a snow storm in New Jersey, but nothing like the electrical storm we had this week in Bacalar, Mexico. This was a doozy.
The evening started with quiet flashes and increased breezes coming from the north. Only because we had just installed hurricane curtains on our screened-in porch, did we close up the house and head to bed. Might as well give these puppies a go. Lord were we in for a night!
An example of some of the storms that roll across the Laguna.
It wasn’t long before the storm hit. Blinding flashes exploded one after another followed immediately by ear splitting sonic booms which told me that the storm was stalled right over us. My father had taught me to count, one-thousand one, one-thousand two, between lightning and thunder claps to track the storm’s movement. It was right on us and I was glad for the concrete bunker that we live in and our newly installed protection.
Just in time.
I badly wanted to go up on the roof to watch the storm, but frankly I was scared. Mexico leads the world in death from lightning (National Lightning Safety Institute) and I wasn’t about to be stupid. The lack of grounding wire in many homes in Mexico is likely the culprit, not to mention the spaghetti bowl of dangling wire that can be seen all over most cities.
I checked on the dogs who seemed to be doing quite well considering, battened down the hatches some more and climbed into bed. I fell asleep counting one-thousand one, one-thousand two, as the storm slowly moved away.
NOT taken during the storm.
The next morning our yard looked like it had been through a spin cycle. Two banana trees came down with their top-heavy load of green bananas, lots of leaves, and a few big branches was all. We had gotten a much needed drenching and overall faired pretty well. It took a few days but all is back in order. Next time I will take pictures.
About an hour and a half drive from Bacalar is the town of Xpujil. Like many Mexican villages, it is situated on a major highway. Highway 186 connects east (the Bay of Chetumal) and west (the Gulf of Mexico) at the base of the Yucatan Peninsula and in the heart of one of the most advanced ancient civilization on the planet, the Mayan people.
One of numerous sites in the town itself. The similarities to Tikal in Guatemala are evident.
I can’t imagine what it’s like growing up with pyramids down the street. Many children in Bacalar have never been out on the Laguna. Do the children of Xpujil study their ancestors? One can only hope.
Calakmul is a huge site. We drove forty miles down a bumpy road. Tour buses are not allowed.
We spent three days and traveled to four amazing sites in close proximity. There is so much to be learned about the massive civilization that connects Mexico with Guatemala, Belize, and Honduras. We truly live in an area rich in culture and history.
Wild turkeys that looked more like peacocks, air plants and passageways to the underworld. Monkeys were swinging overhead.
These three-dimensional friezes were well protected. I could have spent days studying them.
We would like to return to this area in the future. There was way more to digest than three days allowed. Also scroll down to see the bats! A genuine bat cave where a vortex of bats headed into the jungle at sunset to consume mosquitoes. They gave the Austin bats a run for their money. Truly an awesome experience. DOS TORTAS
I was recently asked to contribute my experience living in México to help benefit women who are newly arrived. There are the retirees who move here by choice and those evicted from their residential country. Both need a period of adjustment.
Where do you live?
Bacalar, QR Mexico
A small band of women gather for solidarity with the US women’s march in January 2017 (I am second from the right and Lisa next to me in orange)
How have you created a life worth living here? What did you do? How long did it take?
We were able to create a retirement life in Mexico by living a simple life in the US. For years we used public transportation, ate out rarely, and saved consciously. We used the book YOUR MONEY OR YOUR LIFE. (Retiring To Mexico – Is It In Your Stars?)
How do you follow your passions?
My passions have changed considerably since retiring. I have become a homebody. I paint in watercolor and acrylic which was unexpected.
A watercolor painting from Rendezvous 2018, Merida, Yucatan
I have two rescue dogs which is a completely new experience. Be open to surprises, life will change. (A Funeral For Myself)
Frida and Luna
Are there safety concerns where you live? What do you do to minimize risk?
I have no fear for my personal safety. There are robberies which will always occur where there are poor people. We have a security camera at the entrance to our property because it is a distance from our door. I refuse to live in fear.
La Virgen de Guadalupe is a main factor in nearly all sections of Mexico. Have you adopted any part of this? Are there other Mexican saints that you have discovered an affinity with?
Guadalupe has a prominent location in our house.
The Virgin of Guadalupe played a role in my life way before moving to Mexico. Last summer we visited the Basilica in Mexico City. It was a very moving experience. My collection of her images has gotten a bit crazy. She is my protector and guide. (My Fixation On Guadalupe) I also like the Catrina skeletons.
She Decorates Our Kitchen
What would you tell a woman who recently arrived in Mexico?
Mexico is a very fun and polite country. Make eye contact, slow down, learn to greet people in Spanish, buenos días, in restaurants, on the bus, in the market. If a Mexican invites you to a party, go! Even if you don’t know a word of Spanish. Expect to be hugged and kissed a lot, even by people you don’t know.
Dance Like Nobody’s Watching
Challenges I’ve overcome to create the life we have.
Probably the biggest challenge has been being away from family, children and grandchildren. Travel is not as easy as it once was and the world political climate is not improving any time soon. Our family is spread out, so living in Mexico or the states, is almost the same, at least that is what we tell ourselves. Sometimes I feel sad and I wish things were different, but most of the time, our children are living their lives and we’re living ours and that’s just fine.
FaceTime with our two year old grandson.
Life is good and we are extremely blessed. Is it hard? Sometimes. Did we realize that traveling meant house sitters for our dogs? Not really. Did we foresee the growth in our little village and the repercussions to our beautiful laguna? Nope. Will we spend the rest of our lives here? Who knows. We WILL be happy today, give thanks and love life. Until next week…DOS TORTAS
My memory of childhood birthday celebrations is family dinners, with my mother’s lasagna always being my meal of choice. One lean year when I was in middle school I received a pair of oxfords as a gift. No penny loafers for me.
Leaving Austin, Tx in September 2013 for our move to Mexico.
The last garage sale before we left. Our sons and their dad and my DIL and grandson. Bittersweet.
To make up for my lack of childhood parties, I guess it wasn’t a thing in the stone age, I planned my own fun adult parties.
Family portrait for my big 6-oh. A lot has changed in six years.
My annual celebrations included a kite-flying picnic in the park and glow-in-the-dark bowling which was a big hit. We had musical performances on the patio in Austin and even a poetry reading. But the absolute best was my sixtieth birthday in a hardware store!
Treehouse Hardware in Westgate Mall, Austin, TX.
Formerly a Boarder’s book store, Treehouse is an upscale, swanky hardware store. In 2012 it had just moved into its current space and wasn’t doing that great. I approached the staff about having my party in their large central workshop area during store hours. I wanted to promote the store because I liked having it within walking distance of my house. Staff looked a bit confused but seemed willing to humor me. My good friends The Therapy Sisters performed and we served a large sheet cake to all comers. It was a blast and the best birthday party ever.
Not your daddy’s hardware store.
Today is my birthday and Lisa and I have slipped off to a jungle B&B for a few days R&R. No electronics allowed. I’ll be back next week with some great pictures.
Merida is the capital of the state of Yucatan, and a colonial city of over two million people. The Spanish influence can be seen everywhere as can the Mayan people who inhabit the city.
Mayan flower vendor in traditional dress.
The tropical climate, endless cultural events, and low cost of living make it attractive to expatriates from all over the world. Within a few hours drive you can visit several magical cities, flamingo nesting sites, and Mayan pyramids.
The ancient Mayan city of Mayapan.
And then there’s the pristine beaches. It is no wonder that Merida is one of the fastest growing cities in Mexico.
Isla Holbox sunset. Not far from Merida.
Renovated Hacienda Santa Cruz, come for dinner or a luxury stay. Painting by Teresa Bland.
There are many wonderful museums.
Elegant Mayan woman.
Campesino-Mayan Farmer
Whether coming for a visit or to renovate and create your own Mexican home away, Merida is a gem.
My friend’s courtyard art.
A busy place with Uber to help you navigate. Do let us know if you’re visiting. Bacalar is a four hour drive in a first class bus. We just might join you.
I love to wander the streets in a delicious city like Merida, taking in the sites and peering into interesting shops.
Today I happened to glance to my right side and into a large courtyard and saw this….
A pedal loom.
Close up of a work in progress.
Not waiting for an invitation, I walked in to gaze at its beauty. As my eyes adjusted to my environment, I noticed large wall hangings, rugs, quilts and tablecloths. It was a store.
No one jumped to wait on me, as is the case in many shops. No one was eager to practice their English, call me “lady” or begin the high pressure sales pitch. I climbed the stairs to find two salesmen helping other gringos, so I wandered around delightfully ignored. A bright turquoise, my favorite color, wall hanging, caught my eye and I asked where it was from. The salesman shrugged his shoulders and said he didn’t know. Some sales technique! He could have made up a good story. I’d have believed him.
Won’t this look great in my house?
This beautiful piece wanted to come home with me ❤️. I rarely give in to impulse buying, but….who could resist? Not me! We struck a deal and off I went feeling rather pleased with myself.
Day Four Hacienda Santa Cruz – SOLD
After a week of watercolor painting, I guess you could call it shop therapy. Saturday night was our show. Sunday morning I am off for Bacalar to my Sweetie and puppies. I am so ready for my own bed. My painting skill grows each year but it’s stressful. Until next week.
Some weeks it’s laze in the hammock, a puppy asleep on my legs and a movie on the pad or book in hand. This has not been one of those weeks.
Sorry Frida, not this week.
Friends from Austin visited and we got to be tour guides.
The magical palms of Kohunlich. Like going to church.
My rendition of the pyramids of Dzibanché. Love the trees.
Friday night we attended the Bailede Carnaval para Damas “Paris 2018” (Women’s Dance) It was put on by the governor’s wife Gabriela de Rejón de Juaquín. Think Las Vegas meets Mardi Gras meets bachelorette party on steroids. We represented the non-profit Lights of Love Lisa is on the board and a project to renovate the Casa de los Abuelos (Grandparents’ House) for the poorest of the poor in Chetumal is in the works.
The costumes were fabulous. The First Lady takes center stage.
Yesterday, Saturday we attended our dear friend Gabriel’s daughter’s wedding.
Congratulations Karla and Jesus. What a fun night!
As you read this blog, I will be on my way to paint in Merida for a week.
If you are in the area, please join us for our show on Saturday, February 10.
We will be painting at wonderful Mayapan pyramids where I captured this shot last year.
Stay tuned for more adventures. You never know what we’ll be up to next!
I remember kindergarten and the teacher presenting a table of musical instruments for a pint sized marching band. For some unknown reason, I chose the baton to lead the band. I remember my teacher reporting later to my mother in a certain voice that I “liked to be in charge”. It is my first memory of having my voice squashed.
We are living in inspired times with women finding their bold, beautiful voices. Whether marching in pink hats, accepting awards, or naming their abuser. I understand the old need for self preservation and its long term consequences to our soul, and the heady power of speaking out.
The orchid in my yard has no trouble finding her voice.
My government job, at times helped me find my voice. I presented at national conferences and brainstormed around tables. I was respected in my field. Then the times changed, the funding dried up and my position disappeared. That’s the way it goes sometimes in a regime change. Also my gray hair made it impossible to find a comparable job. It was time to retire.
Lisa and my last Christmas in Texas (2012). I was still working and planning our escape.
The question I ask myself and pose to you is, “how do you continue to use your voice as you age?” I find it easy to be quiet and let others make decisions, which affords little personal growth and is plain lazy.
Retirement looks good on us.
Looking in the mirror, I realize at least two ways I continue expressing myself, one is this blog and the other my budding art practice. Some weeks I know what I want to say and have my topic well fleshed out by Sunday. Other weeks, like today, it appears as I put fingers to keyboard.
Last night when I couldn’t sleep.
My art is becoming more and more fearless, at least for me. I leave next Sunday for a week of watercolor painting in Merida. We’ll see what shows up. I’m excited. So whether you need to be quiet and listen more, or sing your opinions from the rooftop, please share your thoughts in the comments section. It really is inspiring to hear from you.
the adventures of dos tortas 
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