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The Magical City of Izamal

When a place is officially designated magical, it’s hard to pass up an opportunity to visit. We heard about Izamal at the artisan museum in Valladolid. I admired a painting and was told that it was the convent in Izamal, where the second largest church devoted to the Virgin Mary in Mexico is located. Pope John Paul II visited in 1993, drawing much attention to this little town. Being a fan, we added it to our itinerary (of the virgin, not necessarily the pope).

This painting of a church in Izamal, the yellow city put it on our must see list.

This painting is of the convent in Izamal, the yellow city. All buildings in the central town are golden yellow.

Mexico has thirty-six magical pueblos. Once a town receives this coveted designation, they get federal funds for publicity and improvements. Izamal is a day trip from Merida and well worth the drive.

The golden cathedral .

Izamal was once a great Mayan city. In order to convert the population to Catholicism, as in all of Mexico, the Franciscan priests built a cathedral on top of a pyramid and in a prominent location. The colonial town grew around it.

We found a hotel with a great garden and adequate room.

I loved this grotto and want to build one on our property.

There was a great little artisan museum. Bringing our bicycles was the greatest move we made on this trip.

The Mayan women wear similar dresses as their everyday attire. Young girls don’t want to learn the handwork and the art is being lost.

It’s always about laughing at death or selling bread, take your pick.

There are a dozen talleres or workshops where artists craft from wood, tin, paper mâché, and sisal.

Working in your own home keeps down the overhead and allows artists to make a living.

Cotton, nylon, or sisal in varying weaves, patterns and prices.

Yucatan traditionally produced sisal or henequen as it is called here. For this reason I bought baskets.

I bought this tortilla basket fro e nuns in the church gift shop. The colors were amazing. I couldn't pass it up.

A tortilla basket purchased from the nuns in the church gift shop. They drove a hard bargain but who can argue with nuns? The colors were amazing. I couldn’t pass it up.

Another addition to my budding art collection.

We will definitely make a point of visiting other magical towns in Mexico. Having the ability to take our bicycles made all the difference.

An update on our house construction – the foundation will be poured this week for Lisa’s workshop. It will also provide space to begin shopping for items for the house, ceiling fans, toilets, and appliances. Our builder asked this week to begun thinking about where we want the TV! We may get a house yet.

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The Mayan City of Angels – Ek Balám

3 May

Having visited most of the major archeological sites of Mexico, Teotihuacán in Mexico City, the Great Pyramid in Cholula, Monte Albán in Oaxaca, Palenque, Tulum, Cobá, Chichén Itzá, Tikal in Guatemala and many minor amazing ruins in our area, I was so surprised by Ek Balám. The site is north of Valladolid with the vast majority unexcavated. It almost looks fake, like a Disney replica. But it isn’t.

The mouth of the jaguar. Undoubtedly designed to scare off enemies. Very impressive.

Ek Balám is noted for its images of “angels”.

Winged humans?

The detail is amazing. I imagine it was a pretty sweet place to live if you were high enough on the food chain.

Mayan hut with the angel top left.

Lisa points the way.

We couldn’t pass on this photo op.

I wish I got the picture of one of these guys heading out on his motorcycle, loin cloth flapping.

One thing Ek Bálam had that was unusual was a large cenote, sink hole. Lisa took the opportunity to zip-line across and repel down.

One way to get her in the cold water.

We felt very privileged to be able to take our time and really enjoy this sacred place. What was it like back in its day? It’s hard to imagine.

Next stop the magical city of Izamal. DOS TORTAS

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The Yucatan Meander Continues

26 Apr

While meandering may mean – to wander aimlessly taking a roundabout course, our Torta vacation wasn’t entirely aimless. We left the coastal town of Rio Lagartos and passed one of many old monasteries sprinkled throughout the Yucatan. This one had a small museum inside and a gatekeeper. I think it was more of an opportunity to ask for donations.

Give Lisa an old building to explore and she’s in heaven.

Colonial ruins may not be as old as ancient pyramids but they’re pretty cool.

The bell still is used to call locals to mass.

The old bell is still used to call the faithful to mass.

Next stop, to explore a taller or workshop we came to along the highway and talk to the women who make and sell hammocks for a government cooperative. This is when speaking Spanish really comes in handy. The materials are sent from Merida. The women do the work and make almost nothing for their many hours sitting at a loom (by U.S. standards). There are no minimum wage laws in Mexico. We bought some baskets that will be featured in the Show and Tell blog at the end of the trip.

I would have loved spending the day learning the process.

We arrived in Valladolid and immediately headed out on bicycles to visit a cenote (natural sink hole) that’s situated in the center of town. We were hungry and had been told that the restaurant nearby was a good choice.

There are different kind of cenotes, pronounced sen O tay. Some are above ground, like Cenote Azul in Bacalar. Others have the roof partially caved in and some are completely underground. While in Valladolid, we saw them all, one more breathtaking than the next.

Air conditioned on a hot day.

Roots from the trees above reaching for the water.

We love Valladolid and spent four days visiting the mercado, artisan museum, and cenotes.

Paper mâché.

This painting of a church in Izama, the yellow city put it on our must see list.

This painting of a church in IzamaL, the yellow city, put it on our must see list.

The thing that has surprised the most about adventure is having our minds stretched as to what is beautiful, amazing and possible. Around every corner our eyes grow big and we are in awe. The fun had just begun.

Tags: Adventure in Mexico, colonial mexico, Life in the Yucatan

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The Amazing Meander

19 Apr

Years ago Lisa and I applied to the Amazing Race. After all, we love to travel AND we are very entertaining, at least to us! As our Yucatan adventure continues we can’t help but see ourselves on another kind of Amazing Race. We call it the Amazing Meander. We left Holbox, Yucatan heading south. Feeling a bit peckish we turned left at a sign for a cafe. We were curious at what could be down a little road off a little road. We found Vera’s Cafe.

A world traveler living in a tiny village, Vera made us a delicious lunch. Mexico never ceases to amaze.

Nearby were ancient Mayan trees and an orchid preserve.

These trees were enormous.

The Mayans believe that these trees are holy and are compensated by the government to protect them.

The Mayans believe that certain trees are holy and are compensated by the government to protect them.

Many types of orchids grow on our property in Bacalar. These and many others were for sale.

We headed toward Rio Lagartos, a sleepy little fishing village home to flamingos and hundreds of species of birds. We got quite lost along the way, but that’s part of the adventure. At least that’s what we tell ourselves. We scheduled a six a.m. birding boat tour.

A green heron. Santiago had great eyes and slowed to make sur we didn't miss anything.

A green heron. Our guide had great eyes and slowed to make sure we didn’t miss anything.

I tried to photograph the flamingos but an iPad just doesn’t work for some things. Besides I was too overcome with emotion to focus very well. Another bucket list must see.

We witnessed a parade of flamingos walking on spindly legs across the mud flats. Just awesome.

Of course no visit to Rio Lagartos is complete without a Mayan spa treatment. After soaking in a sulphur warm spring, we covered ourselves in clay. The boat ride to the next stop allowed the clay to dry.

Our skin was baby soft afterward . lol

A working lighthouse adds to the village charm.

Another night in Rio Lagartos then off toward Valladolid. My challenge to you this week is to go on your own meander. Even if it’s on your lunch hour. Take a different path, open your eyes, report back, preferably with pictures DOS TORTAS

Tags: Adventure in Mexico, rio lagartos

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So You’d Like To Buy Some Furniture?

5 Apr

Semana Santa in Bacalar reminds me of spring break on South Padre Island, only on a much smaller scale. Hotels are overflowing, music is loud, there are long waits in restaurants that opened just last week to take advantage of the occasion. After today we will revert back to a sleepy little town, much like Brigadoon disappearing into the mist.

On Wednesday, our builder David took us to the little town of Limones to visit the workshop of Luis, furniture maker extraordinaire.

Luis shows us a window frame that he has made for a school. The wood is so beautiful.

We looked at different types of wood, mahogany, hard cedar and others who’s names don’t translate into English. The grains were amazing showing a variety of color hidden in a log.

A rich red-purple vein that ould be polished and stained for a table or bench.

A rich red-purple vein that could be polished and stained for a table or bench.

This local cedar had wonderful hues of pink and purple.

Next we visited the sawmill to see the source of this lovely wood. Logging is rigorously monitored in Mexico. I was not willing to purchase wood that had been stripped from the jungle to provide us a front door.

Logs are sliced into boards that dry in the sun.

Using a huge bandsaw boards are cut and stacked to dry.

Having worked in the furniture making industry, Lisa was in heaven, even having a conversation with Luis that neither of them really understood.

Beautiful boards shipped all over the world.

Anyone want a table shaped like Texas?

I bet they could sell this for a fortune.

For every tree cut, a hundred are planted.

Back in Limones we stopped at a furniture store. It’s good to know our options. No decisions to make yet but soon.

Look at the different wood in this table.

For the patio perhaps with olorful cushions.

For the patio perhaps with colorful cushions.

We are off this week for a road trip around the Yucatan looking for old doors to repurpose. We hope to visit a few churches, cenotes and maybe an island or two. Until next week. DOS TORTAS

Tags: bacalar mexico, sawmill, Semana Santa

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Exploring Bacalar On Foot

29 Mar

My favorite way to explore any place is by walking. It’s a chance to savor the sights, sounds and smells. Bacalar is quite compact, so it is an easy distance to meander, allowing whim to lead. Last night’s tormenta left streets washed away and electrical wires down. The trees and flowers weren’t complaining however and everything looked green and bright, the way it does after a good drenching.

Bogavilla of all colors are blooming year round.

It’s also banana season in southern Mexico with large bunches hanging in every yard.

This bunch came down in the heavy downpour.

This bunch fell down in the heavy downpour.

Along my walk, I admired this beautiful stone wall that was recently completed. It is amazing to me that a wall is built on property where there is no house! In some instances, I’ve seen narrow doors in a thick wall in front of an empty lot that will make future construction almost impossible. I’ve yet to figure it out.

Onward toward the mercado. There is a large Mennonite community around Bacalar. They are known for their cheese production and handmade furniture. These lovely chairs were for sale at about $25US each. This robust gentleman had to show me how well the chairs were made by wiggling his behind in the seat, which made everyone laugh. The Mennonite man even smiled, I think.

The mercado was busy. There are a lot of out-of-state vehicles in town as we lead up to Semana Santa, Holy Week and Easter, which swells Bacalar to capacity and then some. All hotels and hostels will be full to overflowing.

The Mayan women have their patio eggs and backyard veggies.

My next stop is the juice bar. It’s new and they offer a mean green drink, a bit sweet put perfect refreshment after a walk.

$1.50 for a half liter.

I was pleased to see early corn available. The guy said it was grown local, a peso an ear (.07). I bought five and he threw in a freebie. The corn turned out to be quite sweet. Mexico banned GMO corn, so the ears are small. Together with the black beans left from dinner and the tomatoes and cilantro from the mercado, I made a great fresh corn and black bean salad for lunch. Yum.

I couldn’t resist a shot of these lovely watermelons. It would have been a bit difficult to carry and besides I had one home on the counter.

Another Mennonite family.

I had a conversation with a Mennonite woman selling tomatoes and peppers. She spoke English having lived in Belize and complained that she found Spanish difficult to learn. She told me that she has eleven children and her mother had sixteen, all still living. She was fascinated that I only had three children. I wished that I had more time to stay and talk to her. Hopefully I’ll see her again.

I learned that going for a walk with no destination or plan can turn a grumpy morning into an awesome day. The ingredients for lunch were a bonus. It’s easy here with a smile and a hug to connect. I bet it would work where you live too. Let us know. DOS TORTAS

Tags: going for a walk, Laguna Bacalar, mennonites, Mexican mercado

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Permission to Build – Let the Games Begin

22 Mar

“Everything will be all right in the end… if it’s not all right then it’s not yet the end.”

I guess you can tell that we re-watched the Best Exotic Marigold Hotel this week. I just love that movie. It makes me laugh. We saw it first on the big screen the summer before we pulled out of the driveway hauling our worldly possessions to retire in Mexico. Life sure has been an adventure since then, although not always the one we expected.

This week, after five months of waiting, we got the approval for our home construction project from the state of Quitana Roo. Cue music – happy dance!

David, our builder and Lisa out checking out the placement of the house.

We put a contract on a half acre of lake-front property when we first visited Bacalar, Quitana Roo, a half hour from the Belize-Mexico border, in December 2013. It was a bold move and we returned to Austin to sell our house, retire from our jobs, sell everything and return the following September to begin life in small-town southern Mexico. We never expected to be renting for two years before moving into our own home. We had a lot to learn about how things are done in Mexico.

Our wobbly dock will be replaced eventually. This will be the view from our porch.

We hired a biologist a year ago to submit a three-ring, three-inch environmental impact study to the state oversight agency. Building in an environmentally sensitive area required jumping through many more hoops than we were aware. We turned in the report in October 2014 and got our permission to move forward on Thursday of this week.

The view south from our rickety dock.

Our next steps will be to submit structural plans to the Municipio de Bacalar. Municipalities have oversight over all new construction. We will continue transferring funds to our Mexican bank, open an account with a local construction materials company, who will make weekly deliveries to the property, and work on the interior design. We meet next week with a woodworker to begin making the doors.

A built-in cabinet that we will have incorporated into the house design.

A built-in cabinet that we have incorporated into the house design.

I love the idea of niches and built-in cabinets. In a small house it is especially important to optimize the use of all available space. We’ve extended the size of the porch and my studio to allow room for a bed and guests.

We want a similar roof-top patio for star gazing, curling up with a book or entertaining friends.

We’re finally starting to feel excited. Today we go to the property to check out progress on the well and septic system. It’s been one big lesson on how to be happy while life unfolds in its own way.

I love this stonework that is in the home of a neighbor.

This is the time we get to fulfill an unspoken dream, a beautiful home. I’ve never been one to focus on beauty. Our home has always been basic, functional and comfortable. Now is the time to create beauty, something until this time, I’d never really considered. Stay with us, this is when it gets fun. I hope.

DOS TORTA

Tags: bacalar mexico, building a house in Mexico, retire mexico

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A Car Chase in Bacalar Taxista #29

15 Mar

Taxis are an essential to life in Bacalar and Mexico in general. You can travel from one end of Bacalar to the other for about two dollars. When considering the cost of insurance, gas and maintenance on a car, you can’t beat it. That is why, when our friends from Austin, Roberta and her sister Mary where visiting a few weeks ago, we thought nothing of hailing a cab to head to breakfast and the best view in town, Hotel Laguna Bacalar.

The food is good and the view is no extra charge.

Looking south toward Chetumal.

Upon our return to town and exiting the taxi, I knew within minutes that my cell phone was missing. I returned immediately to the taxi stand and told my woe to the taxistas. Note to self and all of you – always note the number of the taxi you ride in.

Roberta and Mary visit Bacalar.

The remainder of the day was spent backtracking, getting the phone turned off and trying not to spoil our guests’ final day in Bacalar. We made no further progress on finding the phone and left two days later ourselves, for our trip to Austin.

Teaching Grandma Lisa how it’s done (target shooting)

Halfway through our vacation, we got a message from our good friend and neighbor that his velador Carlos (property manager) knew who had our phone! Carlos used to drive a taxi. And as stories go in a small town, his wife’s cousin saw a taxista with a phone that wasn’t his. Given an opportunity, the cousin looked in the phone and saw Carlos’s phone number and that of our friend.

Now before you get all hopeful, as we did, this story doesn’t have a happy ending. Upon our return, we went to the central office to report taxista #29. The manager said that he would look into it. The fun started when two days later, we spied #29 and Lisa decided to give chase . Now you cannot really have much of a car chase in Bacalar and when the taxi pulled over, we blocked his exit and got out of the truck. He had stopped for the manager who was also looking for him. And then another supervisor showed up. There were neighbors standing in their doorways craning their necks to see what was going on with the crazy gringas. I wish I had thought to take pictures.

A car chase in Bacalar would require avoiding hitting the goats.

It came down to “he said – she said” and #29 vehemently denied everything. Without someone willing to testify, we had no proof. Upon further conversation with Carlos, we decided to drop the issue. #29 is a known bully and he knew who had accused him. We were not concerned for ourselves, but the young cousin who would be asked to testify. Our only hope is that the management knows and #29 will be more careful in the future.

This morning’s sunrise.

So we’re off this week to buy another phone. As many great stories as we’ve heard about people going out of their way to return lost items, I suppose there will always be a #29 who will show up, an unfortunate fact of life anywhere.

Tags: Adventure in Mexico, Bacalar MX, living in mexico, vacation safety

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Life Returning to Normal – Whatever That Means

8 Mar

The Tortas have returned to Bacalar after two weeks in cold, drizzle and fog. We loved visiting with friends and family, but we didn’t get the usual lovely Austin early spring. The day after we left, the city was shut down with freezing temperatures and ice. Whew!

Travel is tiring no matter how well the trip goes. Even the young adults sitting behind us on the plane chanting “Cancun, Cancun!” didn’t put a damper on our mood. Earplugs helped.

The sunset leaving Tulum heading home to Bacalar.

Returning to our paradise means kicking our house construction into high gear. We have met with our architect and a three week deadline is ticking to complete the structural plans. It was fun to talk sky lights, niches and ceiling fan placement. We will walk the property on Tuesday with our builder to discuss house placement tweaks to optimize the view and air flow. While it seems that it has taken an inordinately long time to build this house, blessings can come in disguise. We are finally clear on what we want and the universe is getting onboard.

A built-in cabinet that we will incorporate into the house design.

A huge blessing is the current dollar to peso exchange rate. As we prepare to transfer money to our Mexican bank account, the dollar is the strongest it’s been in 22 years. It means that our cost to build will be less than when we arrived in 2013. Another blessing being showered on The Tortas.

Sunday morning sunrise over Laguna Bacalar.

We are happy to be settling back into our routine of exercise, meditation and our daily to-do list…make a dentist appointment, schedule maintenance on the truck, clean out the refrigerator, etc. It’s a simple life and extremely satisfying.

Tags: Adventure in Mexico, Amazing sunrise, expat living in Mexico, Laguna Bacalar

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The Artist Next Door

1 Feb

“Art has so many sides, so many possibilities.” These wise words posted by one of our blog followers inspired me to continue sharing the artistry that is Bacalar. Christmas Eve we met our neighbors Abraham and Isabel. Abraham is a stone and wood sculptor with his work currently on display at a local resort. We spent a fun day recently oooing and ahhhing and generally being inspired by Abraham’s work.

Abraham Illescas

The pieces are viewed best by walking round to experience all sides. Clearly this is not the perfect venue. The stone makes you want to caress the coolness, smooth and rough. Abraham “finds” stones, or maybe they find him and works to release the beauty within.

Abraham is working on an installation for the Modern Art Museum in Mexico City in a few months. At the same time, all pieces are for sale, a common struggle of all full-time artists.

Wouldn't this piece look wonderful in your garden?

Wouldn’t this beauty look wonderful in your garden?

This is my favorite piece, carved from a stone found holding open a door in a small Yucatan hotel. Maybe its forever home is my yet-to-be built house, displayed with the perfect lighting in my living room .

Abraham and Isabel sat with us at dinner last weekend. They wave when they see me out on my bike. It has been really fun getting to know them and continuing to open my eyes to the artistry in Bacalar.

Tags: Laguna Bacalar, Life in the Yucatan, living in mexico, retire mexico

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Categories Mexican Modern Art, Southern mexico, Uncategorized

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the adventures of dos tortas

The Magical City of Izamal

The Mayan City of Angels – Ek Balám

The Yucatan Meander Continues

The Amazing Meander

So You’d Like To Buy Some Furniture?

Exploring Bacalar On Foot

Permission to Build – Let the Games Begin

A Car Chase in Bacalar Taxista #29

Life Returning to Normal – Whatever That Means

The Artist Next Door

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