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Papa Francisco’s Visit To Mexico

21 Feb

This week, I was able to watch Mexican TV while visiting a friend and avoiding the fumes of sealing our concrete floors. Most channels were devoted to coverage of the Pope’s visit to Mexico. I was raised Catholic and have mixed feelings about The Church, but this day I was in awe of this Pope and his message. 

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The crowds gathered in Chiapas.

The mass celebrated in the mountainous region of Chiapas was devoted to the indígenas of Mexico. Most people don’t know that there are a million people in the state of Chiapas alone who’s first language is not Spanish. They are the poorest and the proudest. They came in droves and dressed in their best. As the cameras scanned the crowd, it was fun to see simple people recognize themselves on the huge TV screens set up for optimal viewing.

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Forgive my photos of a TV.

Parts of the celebration were in Tzotzil and Tzelta. A line of men and women in native garb took turns addressing the Pope. I was hoping for someone to go off script, but it didn’t happen.

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The women’s voices were given equal time.

The Pope asked for forgiveness for the decimation of native populations by the Church, government and European invaders.

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The Pope’s message spoken to common people.

While many attacked the Pope’s message as nothing but empty words, I was most impressed by his asking for help with climate change. People who live simple lives, close to the land have a lot to teach the rest of us. If we will only listen.

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It’s been a week of laying low and continued rest. The Pope’s message gave me hope, which is in short supply these days while observing the US political shenanigans. Maybe Hilary and Bernie could run together. Now wouldn’t that be an interesting possibility. Please post comments below. DOS TORTAS

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Liar Liar

14 Feb

When thinking about writing this week, absolutely nothing came to mind. Nada, zilch, zero. I tried, pondered, came across some options and dismissed them. Basically I’m lying and I’m trying to keep it hidden. Pants on fire and all that.

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Hanging out with Luna.

I am still recovering from a fall. I wrote about it in a blog two weeks ago and failed to share that it was more than a sprained ankle.

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I have hardly been out of the house.

I returned to the doctor with groin pain and an x-ray revealed a compressed pubic bone. The doctor prescribed six weeks of rest, reposo. I’m not good at reposo.

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Landscaping along the Laguna.

So when I went to write this week’s blog entry, I had no pithy story or philosophical awareness to share. The truth is, I’m embarrassed. I guess I think you won’t hang with me if I’m not entertaining or profound. Super woman I am not. No sympathy please. My body is healing. I’m trying not to take the pain personal and instead be grateful. Hope you have a great week. Mine will be, because I said so!

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Let’s Workout!

7 Feb

When Dos Tortas scouted Laguna Bacalar in southern Mexico as a possible retirement location, we boated on the lake, sampled the cuisine and met members of the expat community. We cruised the streets, shopped in the mercado, and attended a cultural event, all in an effort to imagine ourselves living in this quaint little town. What we didn’t do was visit the gym. 

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The Gold’s Gym of Bacalar

Prior to moving to Mexico from Austin, Texas, I had a gym membership and worked out regularly. We had a large yoga studio within walking distance and dozens of hike and bike trails.

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A bit antiquated but surprisingly adequate.

When we moved to Mexico, we brought our own gym, kettle bells, exercise ball, bicycles, yoga videos, kayaks and more. All were adequate until Lisa had back surgery and her doctor prescribed workouts on a stationary bike. Mmmmmm.

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Lisa and her mom scoping out the equipment.

While the attendance of three older women is looked at with curiosity by the youthful attendees, everyone is respectful, especially when it’s clear that we mean business. Cost? 250 pesos a month, less than $15 for unlimited visits.

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Living an adventurous life means making daily choices to do the things we need to stay strong and healthy. We like to mix it up, so our funky gym is absolutely perfect. What do you do for exercise? DOS TORTAS

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Vochol, Herbie the Love Bug’s Mexican cousin

31 Jan

Some days it doesn’t pay to get out of bed, and this has been one of those WEEKS. Please enjoy a visiting blogger. This VW and museum are on my bucket list.

Source: Vochol, Herbie the Love Bug’s Mexican cousin

Falling For Life in Mexico – Literally

24 Jan

Multitasking actually means not fully paying attention to ANYTHING. So this week when I simultaneously stepped over a two foot high curb while looking for oncoming traffic, it’s not surprising that I caught my toe and went down on hip and elbow. 

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All sunrise shots taken from the porch this week.

I have fallen three times since moving to Mexico two and a half years ago. Leading an active, adventurous life involves risk.

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The first time I fell was a perfect storm of bald bicycle tires, gravel, a hill and a curve. The doctor diagnosed a fracture of the femur and put me in a soft cast for six weeks. We never saw evidence on an x-ray so who knows.

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The second fall was during a hike in San Miguel de Allende while visiting my friend Nancy last summer. While crossing a muddy creek, I slipped and went down hard on my knee. Again we had a trip to the ER, x-rays, swelling and additions to our collection of ace bandages.

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These hikers were way better prepared than I with boots and walking poles.

Thank God for the loving support of my wife, MIL and friends in Bacalar. The loan of a walker helps me to stay off the ankle and our stairs will keep me housebound for a week or so.

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This sweet little ride has seen better days.

I am also grateful for the extensive exercise we do, yoga, calisthenics and recently added strength training. It could have been so much worse. Living an adventurous life is worth preparing for.

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Living in Mexico – Settling In

17 Jan

It is the dream of many to retire to a tropical climate in Mexico. After years of saving, research, and selling off our home and possessions in Austin, Texas, Dos Tortas came to be. Our blog tells the story of living on lovely Laguna Bacalar, the second largest lake in Mexico, for two and a half years in preparation for construction. Welcome/bienvenidos to our home….

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Stages of construction.

We purchased the lakefront property in 2012. It was a rough sloping lot with potential, close enough to the town o Bacalar to ride our bikes to the mercado.

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25 meters x 100 meters (.62 acres)

There were many hoops to jump through in order to build in an environmentally sensitive area. An impact study was not in our thoughts as we signed a purchase contract.

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We’re hanging pictures!

Dreams of our crystal blue lake, swimming “out back”, kayaking, and boating danced in our heads. We could see the end result but did not explore adequately the process to get there. But that is behind us as we settle into our new home. In Mexico!

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Our new “couch” was installed on Friday.

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The fountain near the outdoor bathroom is trickling down the rock face.

There are interior details that have yet to be completed. A rooftop patio is on the drawing board. We have enough projects and gardening to keep us busy for a long time. Stay tuned.

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The Adventures of Princesa Luna

10 Jan

It was scary taking our beloved pup Luna to get spayed in a clinic near our home in Mexico. Clearly her body was getting ready to go into heat, so time was of the essence.  Attracting machos for miles in all directions is not our idea of a good time. 

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Cost $300 pesos ($17US)

Our contractor’s wife Nini helps to organize sterilization clinics in Chetumal, thirty minutes from our home. All the work is done by volunteers. The vet drives five hours from Cancun to work for the weekend.

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A little black kitty on the table.

After we arrived and met Dr. Fernando, our fears vanished. Everyone was so kind and gentle with the frightened, hungry animals. The clinics was set up in a private carport. They had clearly done this before.

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Volunteers keep puppies calm.

There were six dogs and a slew of cats waiting their turn. We got the call to come get Luna after two and a half hours. She was groggy but ready to come home.

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Dr. Fernando and his lovely assistant Pili.

Also  for a few dollars, vets tattoo a number in a dog’s ear and create an identification record. Chips don’t work here, as no one can afford the equipment to read them.

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Luna is #47. We now have papers to prove she is ours.

Luna is home and resting with her new pal Mona. Luna’s been asking for a kitty, but for now she gets to play with the neighbor’s cat and her new little stuffed friend. Her eyes are clearer and she is resting comfortably, as are her two mommas.

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Princesa Luna and Mona.

If you wish to read more on sterilization clinics and the street dogs of Bacalar, check out the Perros of Bacalar. We also will take donations for food and support of future clinics if you care to donate, contact me. Have a great week. As always, your comments are appreciated. We also have Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest pages if you care to see more of our lovely Laguna. Search theadventuresofdostortas. DOS TORTAS

 

OMG Driving In Mexico

3 Jan

There wasn’t time to grab the camera as a doble remolque (18-wheeled cab pulling two trailers) passed us on a double yellow line as we both crested a hill! Much like in Japan where buses have the right of way and pull out from the curb without warning…a big ass truck in Mexico can do almost anything.

Most articles about driving in Mexico start with, don’t drive at night. Given the conditions of the roads, we heartily agree. Here are additional considerations.

  • Signage may be nonexistent and if you’re watching for a turn, SLOW down. There is little warning that your turn is coming up.
  • The same goes with road construction (and it is everywhere). The guy waving a flag may give you ten feet of warning to avoid a ten foot drop.
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Luckily it is fairly easy to turn around.

  • Speed limits are a suggestion which makes for a relaxed trip. In three years we’ve seen one cop with radar.
  • It’s always best to drive with a partner if possible. A second pair of eyes notices the man gathering wood along a road with absolutely no shoulder.
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It took us awhile to understand that using rocks to slow traffic is common. This sign says not to leave them in the road. Good idea.

  • A wide shoulder on a two lane road is used to facilitate passing. Pull to the right to let a vehicle pass you OR to allow a car coming at you to pass oncoming traffic. Flashing headlights may provide some warning. Do however watch for pedestrians, bicycles, motos or goats ambling on the shoulder.
  • A vehicle with its left turn signal on is telling you it’s clear to pass. If you want to make a left hand turn, pull to the right shoulder and wait for all lanes to clear. At the same time, if you see a car using turning signals for anything, they’re probably a foreigner.
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A peloton with motorcycle support. A rare sight.

  • Stick to the toll roads if you can afford them. At the same time, they may be as torn up as the libramiento. It’s a flip of the coin.

We are blessed in Bacalar. The road from Cancun to Chetumal may be the best maintained road in Mexico AND it’s free. Hoping your holidays were tranquilo and your new year is full of love. DOS TORTAS

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Standoff With The Neighbors – How It’s Done In Mexico

27 Dec

The politics of land acquisition has a long and bloody history in Mexico. At least no blood was shed yesterday at the property line between us and our neighbors to the south. The policia were called and lots of IPhone video taken. We had our own telenovela (soap opera) going on.

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Local police who’s job it is to keep the peace and prevent bloodshed.

The property line along the Laguna has been drawn and redrawn many times over the years. There are landmarks (stone walls, buildings and fence posts) that have been in place for a long time and provide demarcation where records are sketchy. We have a clear title to our property. When getting permission to build on our lot, a topographer came out with a satellite gizmo and marked our coordinates.  Technology meets history.

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The neighbors take matter into their own hands.

We had met with the property owners more than once and had a handshake agreement as to where the property lines were. When the adult children got involved all communication ceased. Phone calls went unreturned. It was on our plate to resolve the boundaries upon return from NOTB (north of the border). They are claiming another few feet of lake front property. Seriously?!!

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Bringing in some muscle, the palaperos (palapa builders) provide “support”.

We called our builder David who’s command of Spanish is much better than ours, and who had been meeting with government officials to try and get clear markers. He showed up for a showdown. When more talks failed, he called in his gumbas to see that the fence building ceased. But it was Lisa pulling up posts that had both sides laughing. Don’t mess with the Tortas!

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David (right) police (left) neighbors in the middle.

The policia commanded cease and desist on the fence and set an appointment for 11 am Monday morning. I sure hope we can settle things peacefully and move on. The last thing we want is problems with our neighbors.

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Home, la Gripa and Electrical Outage

20 Dec

La gripa is a catch-all phrase used in Mexico for colds and flu. It may or may not include fever and/or the usual symptoms. Mine isn’t serious, no fever, but enough to not feel much like blogging. Also we had a big rain storm last night which took out the electricity until minutes ago. Say no more. 

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The beautiful sky and plains of Chihuahua.

Ours was a whirlwind trip from southern Mexico to Northern California and back. Extenuating circumstances prevented visiting friends and sightseeing. Mostly it was gas, pee, eat, sleep, drive, repeat and not necessarily in that order.

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An early start from Puebla into the mountain pass of the volcano Orizaba.

Once through the mountains of central Mexico, the temperature changed quickly and we were pulling out the shorts. Almost there.

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Rain shower heading out way.

Home sweet home Bacalar. We are recovering from a strenuous trip and bouts of gripa. Lots of fluids, garlic soup and rest. We’re glad to see our puppy who doubled in size while we were gone.

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Sitting on the dock. Lots of cuddles and fish watching with Luna.

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The reason for the trip, Max is one month old.

Happy holidays to you and yours from DOS TORTAS

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Emilie Vardaman

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