Who knew a week of watercolor painting could be so exhausting? Was it fun? Hell yes! Did I learn a lot? Most definitely. But probably the biggest gift was a chance to immerse myself in a group of w…
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A Story Like The Wind
5 Feb
When our children were young, I read them bedtime stories. Little Women, The Indian in the Cupboard. I love to read aloud. Maybe it’s because my dad did too. He read the Sunday comics with a different voice for each character. He should have been a voiceover actor.
My dad like to read, travel and he liked parades.
For twenty-three years we have continued with the bedtime reading ritual. I read aloud, Lisa listens. I wish I had kept track of all the books we’ve read.
The Hobbit, The Lord of the Rings Series, the Harry Potter books, the seven Chronicles of Narnia, the Eragon series by Christopher Paolini (I highly recommend them although we’ve never read the fourth book.) and two of my favorites, A Story Like the Wind and it’s sequel, A Far Off Place by Laurens Van Der Post to name a few.
If I had to pick my favorite book of all time, it would be The Far Pavilions by M.M. Kaye. I think I’ve personally read it three times. And many, many more in twenty-three years. Why did I not write them down? I don’t think I imagined I’d be reading for so long.
Presently we’re reading the No. 1 Ladies Detective Agency series by Alexander McCall Smith.
Not all books lend themselves to being read aloud. Choosing from the adolescent section is a good bet. We’ve slogged through many books that should have been retired early on. We’ve also shied away from anything that might prevent pleasant dreams.
This week I will be in Merida for Art Rendezvous, so no reading before bed. We’ve tried reading over the phone, but it’s not the same.
So you might try reading someone a bedtime story, a child, elderly person or your spouse. It is the absolutely sweetest experience. And who knows, it could create a lifelong habit.
DOS TORTAS
Relax and Hug A Tree
29 Jan
The commitment of a weekly blog brings on a certain amount of pressure. While there’s no one with a gun to my head, I feel an internal pull to produce. It’s also been a habit I’ve established for over four years. So here goes…
The pyramids of Dzibanché selfie with US visitor Harper, Lisa, her mom Alice and me.
Nope, I’ve got nothing this week. I’ve been happy and the weather’s been beautiful. Absolutely nothing interesting bubbled up this week in my middle-of-the-night musings, what do I blog about?
Giant palms. Note the human in bottom right corner.
Given the state of the U.S., it’s almost embarrassing to be filled with joy and gratitude for each day as it presents itself.
Majesty growing on a pyramid.
So I’ve decided to share the recent photos of amazing trees we saw while visiting local Mayan ruins Kohnunlich with our friend and visitor, Harper. I admit it was her astute eye that grabbed my interest.
Trees have stories to tell if we take time to listen. These certainly are beautiful. I love the way their roots adapt to barriers. No fuss, just go around and in some cases, go through.
So if you’re feeling afraid, hopeless or disconnected, or happy and grateful, go hug a tree. They ask nothing of us, except maybe that we don’t destroy the planet.
DOS TORTAS
There’s Nothing We Can Do? I Don’t Think So
22 Jan
The book Sisterhood Is Powerful was my first exposure to feminism. I don’t remember much about the book other than it changed my entire perspective on life. My initial response was anger and then a sigh of relief as the world began to make sense. I wasn’t crazy.
On inauguration day I thought I could skate through pretending it wasn’t happening. Living in Mexico, it is way easier to ignore a lot of the craziness going on in the US. I didn’t take into consideration that the whole world is watching, literally. At my doctor’s appointment on Friday, the waiting room television was tuned to live coverage of the events in Washington. It was like viewing a car accident, horrifying, yet I was unable to look away. The rest of the day was downhill from there.
During the week I had stumbled across a website listing women’s marches scheduled around the world. I was shocked and thrilled to find a walk planned for Saturday morning in Chetumal, a thirty minute drive from our house.
It always starts with a small group of likeminded souls.
I scrambled to get the word out. I badly wanted to feel a part of the the US activities. IMO January 21 turned into a giant “yagya”, a sacred and auspicious ceremony being performed by massive numbers of people all over the planet. It was surely a tipping point. Bacalar had a showing of six women out of twelve! Woohoo.
Our youngest participant.
Getting to know each other over a post walk breakfast.
I don’t see Bacalar as a seat of resistance but I will do what I can to support and assist in any way possible. The most important thing that I saw the march accomplish was to dispel fear. When we are not afraid, we can do anything. Sisterhood really is powerful.
DOS TORTAS
Can You “Plan” Adventure? But Of Course
15 Jan
We have been in our little house along the coast of beautiful Laguna Bacalar in the tropics of Southern Mexico for a little more than a year. The walls have been settling around us. Our gardens are bursting with color from a long rainy season. Life is good.
Waking every morning to an amazing sunrise.
We left our life in Austin, Texas and made this extraordinary move in 2013 with certain pre-conceived ideas that were completely subconscious. Traveling and living in a foreign country is a great way to hold up a mirror to one’s assumptions. Here are some things that surprised us about our new life.
Orchid like flowers blooming in the jungle.
A stone cross found in Valladolid, Yucatán.
It’s not as easy to take off for the weekend and travel as we had imagined.
This may be a no-brainer for you but dogs are a lot of work. When we adopted Luna, our first dog ever, she was a throw away street puppy. We didn’t really think through all the ways she would impact our lives. Everyone told us, you HAVE to have a dog. Of course we adore her, but like every other relationship, there are inconveniences.
A sad little puppy who needed a home.
Lisa and Luna enjoying tour of the lake.
Leaving our house unattended for more than a day or two is not a good idea. There is crime of opportunity, much like in the US or anywhere else in the world. An empty house is a big opportunity. Since we have chosen not to live with bars on the windows, having a house sitter is the way to go. Finding the right someone takes time. Travel is less spontaneous than we had hoped. Another inconvenience.
The front of the house.
We have also turned into the proverbial home bodies. The view from the porch is to die for. We can swim and kayak in our back “yard”. The food (my cooking) is the best and our bed is supremely comfy.
So the “Adventures” of Dos Tortas has been looking more like the laid-back, staid life of Dos Tortas. We are not complaining.
As of today, I am happy to report there are adventures in the planning. Can you “plan” adventures? Stay tuned. We’ll try to step it up a bit.
DOS TORTAS
My Fixation On Guadalupe
8 Jan
Apparently I have at least one image of The Virgin of Guadalupe in every room in the house. I did not do it intentionally. As a matter of fact, I did not even realize how much she graced our home until our recent guest pointed it out. How on earth did that happen?!
A gift from my sister-in-law, at home in the living room in her own niche.
A bit of herstory, I was raised Catholic and about age 16 turned my back on it all and refused to even go to church. My mother was crushed.
An original watercolor by my friend Cat hangs in my studio.
For most of the years that followed, I refused to think much about religion. In the 80’s I developed an interest in women’s spirituality. Books such as The Mists of Avalon, The Holy Book of Women’s Mysteries, The Spiral Dance, charged women with seeking the holy feminine. Goddesses from around the globe, Brigid (Celtic), Artemis (Greek), Diana (Roman), Kali (Hindu) and many more replaced the dominant concept of God the Father. I loved the idea of God the Mother and irreverent as I am, resonated supremely with Guadalupe and her vulvar shape.
Stock photo.
Slowly and over time, my life filled with Guadalupes.
Pantry wall hanging by Alison Schockner, San Antonio fiber artist and dear friend.
Every house needs at least one refrigerator magnet.
Bathroom window.
One of the my most cherished spaces is the groto that greets visitors at the top of our stairs. It was built by our contractor David Gowen-Smith. My mother gave me the statue.
If you think that I have become a bit over the top loca, you could be right. Before you decide, watch the Netflix documentary “Marias-Faith In Womanhood”. It is difficult to describe the connection I have with Guadalupe, but I am clearly not alone.
This large wooden relief from Yucatán has a prominent place on our patio.
As I seek more spirituality in my life, consciously or unconsciously, Guadalupe plays an important role, front and center. My mother would be so pleased.
DOS TORTAS
Feliz Año Nuevo Torta Style
1 Jan
We weren’t big celebrators of Christmas and New Year’s before we immigrated to Mexico. Holiday gatherings had included fewer gifts, less decorations and more food, friends, and family. In fact, Mexico was a needed escape from thle frenzy, traffic and non-stop Christmas music. Can I get an amen?!
We spent today, New Year’s Day with friends on a great boat ride. We had so much fun that we didn’t take many pictures. Muchas gracias to our amiga Harper for sharing hers.
Friends Barbara and Jean who wanted a boat ride.
Lisa wishing everyone a Happy New Year.
Luna gets in on the fun.
Wishing you all peace in 2017 from our house to yours. Remember to have fun and learn stuff. DOS TORTAS
Encounter Of The Amazing Kind
25 Dec
When moving to Bacalar, Mexico in 2013, our heads were filled with pyramids, mercados, artesanías, cenotes (crystalline natural wells) and colonial churches. We forgot that sometimes the best part of travel is the people you meet along the way.
Last week during our birthday getaway to the small Costa Maya town of Puerto Morelos (Mexican Expat Life) we were reminded of that other, wonderful aspect of living in Mexico.
As we enjoyed our rooftop birthday meal before heading out to a special treat, Cirque du Soleil, we were lovingly attended to by the manager of the restaurant La Sirena. As Lisa and I finished dinner and were hurrying to catch our taxi, we made the most amazing discovery.
Last year Lisa had a visit from her long lost friend, Michelle. Off they went to Valladolid to celebrate Michelle’s birthday and experience a taste of Mexico. Along the way, they met a bedraggled traveler who volunteered to carry their luggage from the bus to the hotel. A lovely lunch followed, their treat, as this young man had clearly not had a square meal in awhile.
Ian, from Ireland, with his lovely brogue had asked at the time how he could repay their kindness. Lisa told him to pay it forward. There is always someone who needs help now and then.
Imagine our delight in meeting up again with Ian in Puerto Morelos. Catching up the next day, we discovered “the rest of the story”. He had met the girl of his dreams, married and now has a six-month old daughter, who’s pictures he lovingly shared. He was as thrilled to connect again with Lisa, as she was with him. Isn’t life a hoot? Happy holidays to all from…
DOS TORTAS
Mexican Expat Life
18 Dec
Sometimes adventure is not WHAT you visit, pyramids, churches, mercados, etc. but WHO you meet along the way. Join the TORTAS as we venture out from our home in Bacalar along the Costa Maya to explore parts unknown (at least to us).
To celebrate a Torta birthday this week, we visited the pueblo of Puerto Morelos nestled between Cancun and Playa del Carmen. Little did we know that this cozy fishing village is an exploding tourist town and expatriate destination.
Guatemalan boys walking the beach looking for tourist pesos.
Something lacking in the far reaches of southern Mexico that we call home, is an English language bookstore. What a surprise to find Alma Libre Bookstore.
Rob and Joanne Birce
Not only are Rob and Joanne long time residents of this sleepy little town, Rob went to school with our friend and fellow Bacalar resident, Mitch! We were immediately family and Joanne told us all the best places to eat in Puerto Morelos.
Visit their website for all things Puerto Morelos.
At Joanne’s recommendation we dined at La Sirena and met the owner Anthony Chalas from my home state of New Jersey. Greek food in Mexico, yum!
Great artwork for a photo op.
Caribbean sea turtle mural.
On our two day tour of Puerto Morelos, we got to visit the local mercado and meet Ann Trépanier, French Canadian and artist extraordinaire.
Making art from recycled plastic. My kinda gal!
Ann makes “fabric” from heating together layered plastic bags. She is passionate about the environment and the changes she sees in her precious little town due to unregulated tourism.
I wish I’d bought all her bags. Contact her at welovepuertomorelos@yahoo.com
There was one more astonishing encounter with a restaurant manager, but that is a story for another day. Travel in Mexico is full of opportunities. Do venture out of the all-inclusive hotel compounds. Not only will you meet lovely Mexican people and fellow fearless travelers but expats from around the world who live, love and fight to protect Mexico’s resources. Do tell them “hello” from
DOS TORTAS
Researching Your Escape To Mexico
11 Dec
There are many online resources available for folks considering the move to Mexico. One of the best is Mexperience. Their blog, newsletter and ebooks provide a broad source of information when exploring a budget, housing and immigration requirements.
Sunrise from our porch on Laguna Bacalar in southern Mexico.
Finding Your Place in Mexico
by Matthew Harrup Pathway
It requires a good deal of courage to emigrate and start a new life in a foreign country, and moving to Mexico is no exception.
The things you need to live well, to live comfortably, and to live simply are here. They probably aren’t in the shapes and forms that you are used to seeing; and how they manifest themselves might be different and, at first, alien to what you are accustomed. This journey of discovery is one that you’ll have to undertake consciously if you are going to transform your life situation and create a distinct lifestyle for yourself in Mexico.
Full adoption of any foreign country requires compromise, acceptance, and understanding. Moving to Mexico will oblige you to change habits, surrender whims, accept life for what it is—not what you wish it or demand it to be. In return, Mexico could gift new dimensions to your life, for example, by encouraging you to see beyond your current horizon, and connecting you to friends of the kind you never thought possible.
You will witness the kindnesses and wickedness of human nature as Mexico’s well-documented contrasts present themselves regularly. It will frustrate you, it will annoy you; sometimes Mexico will tease you and play with you for no apparent reason. Mexico can also fill you with an energy and joy that will remain in you always. It’s this impulsive tapestry that creates the almost mystical allure which has brought foreigners to live here, and live out their lives here, for better and for worse, for centuries. And when—perhaps more accurately, if—you can find peace with all that Mexico is and all that Mexico is not, you will begin to find your place in these lands. If you don’t (or discover that you can’t) adapt and tread that testing path to adoption, Mexico will surely break your endeavors, and send you back whence you came.
You might choose a big city, or a colonial town, or perhaps you’ll find a small place to live beside the ocean. You might even take to establishing your own eco home in Mexico. The diversity here offers ample choices in respect of physical locations.
Whichever you choose, your true place, when you find it in Mexico, will be founded in the spaces which you will come to adore but which you cannot easily define, and in the feelings you hold about Mexico which are not easily articulated.
It has been said that Mexico deposits a certain dust on visitors’ shoes that will cause them to return: for good, or never again. The allegory fits well with the contrasts, but it would be foolhardy to encapsulate that thing—that indefinable attendance which attracts and repels so many to these complex and absorbing lands—in such black-and-white terms.
For those who choose to return to Mexico and make a home—and for those who came and have not left—it matters not how many other foreigners are living here. To adopt Mexico, you’ll need to turn up with an open mind, with courage and with tenacity, and be prepared to craft your own story here, on Mexico’s terms.
If what you’ve seen about Mexico on your TV screen scares and keeps you away, your perceptions have been hijacked before you allowed yourself an opportunity to better understand these lands, and see what others here see: a country in transition, a country which is, by and large, less violent than those places where stones are so readily thrown from glass houses.
Finding your place in Mexico necessarily requires due course. There are no shortcuts, no tricks or cheats to download, no App to give you instant answers. It doesn’t matter how rich or how poor you may be. And you can never understand how irrelevant all those things, and more besides, are to become in your life as Mexico simultaneously encourages and obliges you to find your peace amid its many facets.
If you come to truly know Mexico, as its closest friends who are foreign-born to its lands do, it will most likely be through a baptism of fire that will test your character, your mettle and your heart; through a journey of preparation and discovery that brings you to being in Mexico and the knowing within that here is where your life belongs.
DOS TORTAS
the adventures of dos tortas 
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