Tag Archives: living in mexico

Drama, Drama, Drama

1 May

Adventures can be unexpected and come in all shapes and sizes. But must they include drama? This week I was taking Princesa Luna to the veterinarian in Bacalar. She has a rash and scratches persistently. Luna loves Dr. Joel. He gets eye to eye with her on the exam table and she just wants to lick his face off.

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In the middle of the exam, his assistant came in to tell me that the tire on my Ford 150 was going flat. Oh no! I left Luna on the table and ran out to the truck in a panic, to hear a telling hisssssss.

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My name-sake. Tire Mechanic and Car Wash Alex

I knew if I didn’t get to the llantera (tire shop) fast, I’d be tasked with changing a truck tire. I have changed many tires over the years. I can do it, I’d just rather not. Returning to the vet’s office, I was in a tailspin. He looked me softly in the eye and said, “tranquilo” (be calm), that he would keep Luna and I should go take care of the tire.

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I flew for the nearest tire shop several blocks away and was glad to see an empty bay. Eric greeted me and set out to expertly change my tire.

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The Waiting Room

I believe it didn’t take ten minutes to produce the nail that was the culprit, patch the tire and put it back on the truck. The cost? About $3.50 US and about five years off my life.

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Service With A Smile

Going into fear and drama over some perceived problem is a bad habit of mine. I would have been inconvenienced by a flat tire but it wouldn’t have been the end of the world. And certainly not worth giving up my peace and happiness. Life in Mexico is much less stressful than in the US. But as the old saying goes, “wherever you go, there you are.” So what drama have you participated in lately? Remember, “tranquilo“.

DOS TORTAS

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It’s Noisy In The Jungle

17 Apr

Living forty feet from beautiful Laguna Bacalar, thirty minutes from the southern-most border of Mexico and Belize has its disadvantages, not many, but one in particular. It’s noisy, with screechy birds, and the neighbors.

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Neighbors To The South

Sound travels without buffer over the water. We can hear the conversation on a boat out on the lake from quite a far distance. Strange voices make the dogs go ballistic, barking and being the guard dogs that they think they are. The music from the neighbors can also seem like it’s in our bedroom. Thank God for earplugs.

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Princesa Luna, Intrepid Guard Dog with a Big Voice

It doesn’t help that we live in a concrete bunker and sound bounces and echoes throughout the house. It’s beautiful but a bunker. Rugs help, but not much.

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The Hammock – My Favorite Spot

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Large Windows and Doors for Air-Circulation (no air conditioning)

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The View From the Laguna

For three days this week we’ve been listening to the roar of chainsaws. They seemed close, but it’s hard to approximate with just sound. Yesterday we were in a near panic. Who is tearing up the jungle to pave paradise and put up a parking lot?

I finally walked to the end of our dock with my binoculars. To my surprise and relief there were guys making repairs to the dock that belongs to our neighbor two lots south of us. Such relief.

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Checking Out the New Dock With Neighbor and Fellow Kayaker Teresa

The inconvenience of birds, a party to which we were not invited, barking dogs and the rare sound of chainsaws is not unique to living in Mexico. We bump into each other as humans in so many ways. For the most part, I’m just fine with it. Thank God for earplugs. DOS TORTAS

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A Tiny House in Mexico

13 Mar

We have had two days with spotty electricity. There have been blown fuses, and well it’s a long boring story. So instead, I’ll share pictures of Lisa’s mother’s house. 

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A casita on the property.

When we decided to move to Mexico, Lisa and I discussed bringing her mother to live with us.  We brought her to Bacalar on vacation in February 2014 to see if it would be something she would consider. (See blog archives). She was all in!

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Lovely patio with fountain and stairs to the roof

Little did she know that it would take two years to move into her little house.

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About three hundred square feet, she has one bedroom and a spacious porch.

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Lots of niches for her collections

Bathtubs are not common in Mexico, but Alice wanted a small tub.

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Custom Made by Our Builder David

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Mexican tile bathroom

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Talavera sink

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A small kitchen

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The view from her bedroom

Being close by, Alice feels safe and has us to visit. She has been having fun fixing up her little house and planting a garden. We are going kayaking next week if the wind stays calm. She is having a blast.

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Path to our house and the laguna

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Reader Updates

6 Mar

For the last few months we have blogged about the standoff with neighbors, the house construction, and my fall. So what the heck’s going on? Time to spill the beans. 

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Roof Porch

Our lovely roof porch is ready for furniture, plants, comfy cushions, a ceiling fan and lighting. I try not to be in a hurry and allow a space to speak to me. The accessories will show up, along with my kitchen stools, all in good time.

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Kitchen Cabinets

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Bedroom Artwork

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New Dresser Drawers

All woodwork is custom made from locally harvested hardwood cedar.  We have bathroom, living room and studio shelves left. The carpintero is a master. He moves at his own pace and complains weekly about the difficulty of the work. The bathroom shelves will be curved. This week he scratched his head while taking measurements and said, “pero sí se puede“, but yes, it can be done. He then preens when I tell him that he is just the man for the challenge.

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“Goat”Fence

Ah, the neighbors…we put up what is known as a goat fence on the lower level of the property to allow Luna to be outside off leash and unable to escape. Apparently the neighbors thought is was some sort of claim to their property and tore it down. The municipality will not override the federal marker in the laguna without going through channels, even though we have tons of supporting evidence that it is in the wrong place. Channels take time. I went over to explain to the workers next door that the fence is for the dog only. We’ll see what happens.

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The Goddess Kwan Yin

My hip is vastly improved since my fall six weeks ago. I am without pain and I’ve returned to my usual exercise routine of stretching, going to the gym and daily swimming. Lisa’s mom has moved into her own house and things are quiet. Time to finish unpacking and settle in. Life is good. DOS TORTAS

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Falling For Life in Mexico – Literally

24 Jan

Multitasking actually means not fully paying attention to ANYTHING. So this week when I simultaneously stepped over a two foot high curb while looking for oncoming traffic, it’s not surprising that I caught my toe and went down on hip and elbow. 

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All sunrise shots taken from the porch this week.

I have fallen three times since moving to Mexico two and a half years ago. Leading an active, adventurous life involves risk.

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The first time I fell was a perfect storm of bald bicycle tires, gravel, a hill and a curve. The doctor diagnosed a fracture of the femur and put me in a soft cast for six weeks. We never saw evidence on an x-ray so who knows.

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The second fall was during a hike in San Miguel de Allende while visiting my friend Nancy last summer. While crossing a muddy creek, I slipped and went down hard on my knee. Again we had a trip to the ER, x-rays, swelling and additions to our collection of ace bandages.

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These hikers were way better prepared than I with boots and walking poles.

Thank God for the loving support of my wife, MIL and friends in Bacalar. The loan of a walker helps me to stay off the ankle and our stairs will keep me housebound for a week or so.

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This sweet little ride has seen better days.

I am also grateful for the extensive exercise we do, yoga, calisthenics and recently added strength training. It could have been so much worse. Living an adventurous life is worth preparing for.

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Traveling Tortas

13 Dec

Crossing the border at Agua Prieta, across from Douglas, Arizona was the easiest crossing into Mexico from the U.S. we have made yet. The Tortas have been on an epic journey to California to attend the birth of our grandson and bringing Lisa’s mom Alice to live with us in Bacalar. The guards took one look at my white hair and packed truck and said, move along. Gracias a Dios. The ability to speak Spanish always helps. 

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Sunset south of Phoenix, AZ.

Immigration did not make us offload our truck which would have been a major inconvenience.

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Packed to overflowing with “just one more thing”

There have been long days driving and we are so ready to be home in Bacalar. The odometer noted  five thousand miles driven, a few days ago. We’ve been gone almost six weeks.

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Looking south near Bisbee AZ

The mountains of Chihuahua have been beautiful. We have seen lots of Mexican terrain, but none of the culture, museums or people. Lisa and her mom have head colds. We have been pedal to the metal, hotel to hotel and getting lost following outdated maps. We’ll be home to our little house on Laguna Bacalar in a few days. Until next week, stay warm. Peace from DOS TORTAS.

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Mass Shootings or Farmer’s Markets

6 Dec

Bloggers living in Mexico notice with increased interest when scarey stuff happens in the USA. By comparison, Mexico is looking good. 

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Myself, I try to avoid the news. It’s hard to do I admit. Whether online or on TV there’s such a pull to understand the non-understandable. I refuse to be afraid.

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So instead, I will present another aspect of California that hasn’t made the news lately. The Tortas visited two really nice farmer’s markets on our recent trip to California. I always head to the ethnic food vendors. Mediterranean was especially good at both Windsor and Bakersfield markets.

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Olives, dates, tabouli, hummus and pitta bread are all impossible to find in our little corner of Mexico.

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Of course, every Mexican village has the most wonderful mercado. They are filled with hundreds of items you don’t get in the US, fresh coconut water, tree ripened bananas, and plants and pottery that are really, really cheap.

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US-style farmer’s markets are catching on in Mexico where there are large foreign populations. I attended one in Merida and they were selling bread! Mmmmmm. Fortunately or unfortunately one will never appear in Bacalar. We live in a part of Mexico with a very small foreign community. Which is just the way we planned it.

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Green juice vendor in Bacalar.

So if you’re looking to move to Mexico, don’t come because you’re afraid of the US. You’ll bring your fear with you and be equally unhappy here. Just my opinion.

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One Handed Blogging

29 Nov

Holding our new grandson is the sweetest experience.  Our grandmotherly duty starts around 7:30 am with the handoff of Max, allowing the new parents some much needed sleep. 

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Grandma Lisa starting off her day.

Ask any retiree in Mexico what the hardest part about being away from the U.S. is and missing the grands is at the top of the list.

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The Texas grands Sophia and Hunter.

The Tortas will be braving the chill of Northern California for another week before heading south.

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The best places to take a nap, in Grandma’s arms.

The next best thing to being in two places at once is Skype or FaceTime. I remember being a kid and hearing that someday we’d be able to see who we were talking to on the phone. “Yeah right!” You don’t have to be living on beautiful Laguna Bacalar in southern Mexico to be watching your grandkids grow up electronically. What a miraculous time we live in.

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Eleven month old Sophia with Uncle Cullen.

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A Car Chase in Bacalar Taxista #29

15 Mar

Taxis are an essential to life in Bacalar and Mexico in general. You can travel from one end of Bacalar to the other for about two dollars. When considering the cost of insurance, gas and maintenance on a car, you can’t beat it. That is why, when our friends from Austin, Roberta and her sister Mary where visiting a few weeks ago, we thought nothing of hailing a cab to head to breakfast and the best view in town, Hotel Laguna Bacalar.

The food is good and the view is no extra charge.

The food is good and the view is no extra charge.

Looking south toward Chetumal.

Looking south toward Chetumal.

Upon our return to town and exiting the taxi, I knew within minutes that my cell phone was missing. I returned immediately to the taxi stand and told my woe to the taxistas. Note to self and all of you – always note the number of the taxi you ride in.

Roberta and Mary visit Bacalar.

Roberta and Mary visit Bacalar.

The remainder of the day was spent backtracking, getting the phone turned off and trying not to spoil our guests’ final day in Bacalar. We made no further progress on finding the phone and left two days later ourselves, for our trip to Austin.

Teaching Grandma Lisa how it's done (target shooting)

Teaching Grandma Lisa how it’s done (target shooting)

Halfway through our vacation, we got a message from our good friend and neighbor that his velador Carlos (property manager) knew who had our phone! Carlos used to drive a taxi. And as stories go in a small town, his wife’s cousin saw a taxista with a phone that wasn’t his. Given an opportunity, the cousin looked in the phone and saw Carlos’s phone number and that of our friend.

Now before you get all hopeful, as we did, this story doesn’t have a happy ending. Upon our return, we went to the central office to report taxista #29. The manager said that he would look into it. The fun started when two days later, we spied #29 and Lisa decided to give chase . Now you cannot really have much of a car chase in Bacalar and when the taxi pulled over, we blocked his exit and got out of the truck. He had stopped for the manager who was also looking for him. And then another supervisor showed up. There were neighbors standing in their doorways craning their necks to see what was going on with the crazy gringas. I wish I had thought to take pictures.

A car chase in Bacalar would require avoiding hitting the goats.

A car chase in Bacalar would require avoiding hitting the goats.

It came down to “he said – she said” and #29 vehemently denied everything. Without someone willing to testify, we had no proof. Upon further conversation with Carlos, we decided to drop the issue. #29 is a known bully and he knew who had accused him. We were not concerned for ourselves, but the young cousin who would be asked to testify. Our only hope is that the management knows and #29 will be more careful in the future.

This morning's sunrise.

This morning’s sunrise.

So we’re off this week to buy another phone. As many great stories as we’ve heard about people going out of their way to return lost items, I suppose there will always be a #29 who will show up, an unfortunate fact of life anywhere.
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Eating Organic in Mexico – An Adventure of a Different Kind

22 Feb

The Tortas are on vacation. Please enjoy a previous post.

A large part of moving to Mexico for me was driven by the memory of roaming local mercados brimming with fresh fruits and vegetables. In 1975, as a college student in Mexico, I gorged on whatever was in season, especially relishing avocados and tropical fruits not found in my native New Jersey.

As with everything inthe world, times have changed, and in 2014, asking a merchant in the Bacalar market where their produce is from often results in a blank stare. For this reason, I have thought often of the organic farmer’s market left behind in Austin, Texas. I willingly paid higher prices, which included the privilege of meeting the farmers who grew and brought their culinary wonders to my neighborhood.

On Saturday, the Tortas were excited to take a road-trip to a local organic farm that we’d heard about. After driving 40 km or about 25 miles, we came to what’s otherwise known as Kilometro Cinco (five).

An easy-to-miss wooden roadside stand fronts an amazing farm owned and operated by a husband-wife team. All work is done manually. There is no roto tiller pulled behind a tractor. The rich earth in this soil poor area is the result of twenty years of composted chicken manure. It is obvious that these folks work hard, love what they do and have a green thumb that I can only dream of. We followed them to their fields and were in awe of the crops that were harvested before our eyes. It doesn’t get any fresher than this. There was eggplant, cabbage, kohlrabi, two kinds of espinaca (spinach), red and green lettuce, arugula, chard, bok choy, basil, Serrano peppers, dandelions and probably more that I’m forgetting. It was a Spanish lesson as well. I will have green smoothies for days. Kilometro Cinco is a treasure and well worth the trip. Our huge basket of veggies, farm eggs and oranges cost about $10US. I’m in heaven and no longer dreaming of farmer’s markets.

Rows of lettuce and peppers.

Rows of lettuce and peppers.

Growing in the jungle.

Growing in the jungle.

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Harvesting as we go.

Harvesting as we go.

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