The Many Faces of Laguna Bacalar

19 Oct

The fall brings the rainy season to Bacalar. The wind picks up and the palm-frond palapas begin to rustle. The room gets dark as the clouds block the sun. Time to close the persianas (slatted windows).

The Laguna transforms minute-to-minute with the changing weather.

Monday Morning

Monday Morning

Just as the sun pops above the horizon.

Just as the sun pops above the horizon Tuesday.

Some mornings a pink hue lights up the bedroom and sends me running with camera in hand, to capture another amazing sunrise.

Big sky.

Big sky.

Other days the lake is gray and hauntingly beautiful.

Thick fog.

Thick fog.

Sun sparkling through the clouds.

Sun sparkling through the clouds.

Last night we were able to witness one of those evenings that continue to mesmerize with each passing minute. Cameras were clicking all around us as children threw rocks in the water and were oblivious to the changing beauty of the sky.

 

Perfect for panoramic shots.

Perfect for panoramic shots.

I don’t think I will ever tire of watching and recording the Bacalar sky. You can now follow us on Instagram at dos_tortas. This week we get our first visitors from Austin. We’re excited to be able to show off our town and beautiful Laguna Bacalar.

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Healing Treatment Mayan Style

12 Oct

Moving to Bacalar, Mexico has meant that I haven’t had the resources of the healing community found in my hometown of Austin, Texas, or so I thought.

Let me back up. I have had a series of health challenges that have snowballed due to the use of antibiotics to treat a recurrent urinary track infection. From there, I began having red raised welts all over my body that came and went. Next was the abdominal pain that kept me awake at night. There is nothing more maddening than symptoms that come and go and can’t be pinned down. I have been to four doctors and had numerous tests, blood, urinalysis, CAT scan, ultrasound, even a colonoscopy. Nada, nothing, zilch, nary a polop was discovered. I’ve also had lots of prescriptions, more antibiotics, steroids, creams, and intestinal drugs. We won’t even talk about the expense.

It’s so easy to blame health problems on living in Mexico. After all I was never sick in the US. Ha, I was too busy to be sick and I refuse to fall into that rabbit hole.

This week Lisa made an appointment with our friend and health practitioner Irlein. She and her husband Marcos moved to Laguna Bacalar about this time last year. Irlein has trained for years with a Mayan healer to learn traditional herbs, massage and ancient healing treatments. The experience was amazing.

Soaking in a hot herbal bath.

Soaking in a hot herbal bath.

The day-long process began with lots of preguntas about my symptoms, my self-assessment, what I’ve tried etc. We moved on to a limpia, cleansing with herbs, smoke and chanting. I soaked for hours in a hot herbal bath and periodically jumped in the laguna. Irlein scrubbed my body with course sea salt. The time was spent listening to my inner wisdom, to the messages on the wind and from the laguna. The sense of peace I experienced was deep and profound.

Massage room with a view.

Massage room with a view.

When I was finished soaking Irlein gave me a relaxing massage. The day was filled with love and connection, silence and prayer. A voice told me that I try too hard. It’s time to let life unfold and not push it. Hmmmm.

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So how am I feeling three days later? Natural healing is not like taking a pill. The body takes time to right itself. The rash has disappeared ninety-five percent. My stomach is lots better. I am also on my second week of a juice fast, but that’s another blog. I am happy to find a natural healer in Bacalar. Sometimes it takes a village to think outside the medical box. Thank you Irlein for moving to Bacalar.

Sunrise of the week.

Sunrise of the week on Laguna Bacalar.

Think Global Shop Local

5 Oct

In the mid-1970’s when I lived and traveled in Mexico; there were no grocery stores. Large open-air mercados showed up predictably, one or two days a week and were the norm. We took our woven bags and baskets to bring home purchases. Bulk items such as frijoles were wrapped in newspaper. Plastic bags were non-existent.

Saturday Farmer's Market in Chetumal

Saturday Farmer’s Market in Chetumal

Coconuts in season. Open with a machete.

Coconuts in season. Open with a machete.

Then there were little corner stores where one could exchange an empty bottle and buy a coke. There were a few non-perishables sold and kerosene for the hot water heater.
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Today there are large grocery stores much as we have in the States. Some are familiar such as Walmart and Sam’s Club. Others are Mexican – Chedraui and Soriana.

The little corner stores are still the backbone of Mexico. When I first arrived a year ago, I saw abarrotes and didn’t know what it meant. Pulling out my handy pocket dictionery, I found “groceries”.

A busy little store.

A busy little store.

There are also mini-supers, tiendas and bodegas. Some are small enough to be operated out of a living room. The role that they play for low income people is invaluable. Where else can you buy one aspirin or one roll of toilet paper? Occasionaly there are eggs on the counter or tortillas warm in an insulated container. Mostly the tiendas are full of chips, candy, soda, alcohol and other processed foods.

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Like the U.S., Mexico has its problems with obesity and diabetes, and the shelves of five liter bottles of coke abound.

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This store expanded to include fruit, clothes and plants.

This store expanded to include fruit, clothes and plants.

Every block has its little store. They function as a social center where gossip is exchanged and neighborhood news reported. The other day we bought thirty sheets of copy paper and ten paper clips. Bacalar is truly a world apart, even for Mexico.

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Sunrise of the Week.

Sunrise of the Week.

Never Ever Pray For Patience

28 Sep

Last night there was a scorpion in our bed. Not sure how it got there, but its beso stung for about ten minutes and then I was back to sleep. Never a dull moment.

One of Mexico's most famous couples, Freda Kalo & Diego Rivera

One of Mexico’s most famous couples, Freda Kalo & Diego Rivera

The process of retiring, moving, and building a house in Mexico is not for the faint-hearted. It is an endless learning opportunity. The lessons we continue to learn are the result of expectations and privilege as persons born and raised in the United States.  Straddling two cultures and two languages is a daily tightrope. Some days it’s endlessly fun and fascinating, other days, not so much.

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The daily and sometimes hourly challenge is to remind ourselves NOT to blame our difficulties on Mexico. We chose to come here. I don’t think that reading a dozen e-books on how to build a house in Mexico would have helped. Laws change with each turnover in government and our experience in Bacalar will be very different from the next person’s.

At the same time, we are determined to hang in here and see it through. It is so beautiful. It’s a peaceful happy life, even with the occasional scorpion.

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Off On A Torta Adventure

21 Sep

On Friday we took a bus for our Torta adventure to Merida. After five and a half hour ride through pineapple fields and small towns we arrived for our stay. If you look at a map of Mexico, Merida is the capital of the state of Yucatan. It’s situated at the tip of the peninsula.

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We were offered the use of a lovely home that is within walking distance of the zocalo, central square. We’ve been exploring churches, the artisan market and a lovely museum.

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On Sunday the roads around the center are closed to motor vehicles. The bicycles are out on mass.

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There is a large artists market and walkers in their Sunday best.

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We will definitely be back. What a lovely colonial town. We’re off in a few days to explore more of the Yucatan on our way back to Bacalar.

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Celebrating Our Twenty Year Relationship

16 Sep

When I was about fourteen, I read The Diary Of A Young Girl by Anne Frank and I began to journal. Since that time, the last thing I do at night is make an entry. When we left Austin for Mexico, I shipped a large box of journals to my daughter with instructions not to read them until I was dead. Unfortunately my writing skills did not bloom until late in life and the journals are primarily filled with angst and complaining. I think she will be quite bored.

Bacalar sunrise.

Bacalar sunrise.

In May 2013 while roaming a bookstore in Austin, I found a small 3x5ish journal called The Happiness Project One-Sentence Journal, A Five-Year Record. Each page is divided into five entries under the same date. It is a manageable way to record my life history. It also gives me perspective. It’s fun to see where we were this time last year.

Super moon.

Super moon.

Each page also has a quote about happiness.

March 3 – Happiness is essentially a state of going somewhere wholeheartedly, one-directionally, without regret or reservation. W. H. Sheldon

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September 16 One of the best ways to make yourself happy is to make other people happy. One of the best ways to make other people happy is to be happy yourself.

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After twenty years I am still learning how to love, accept and be grateful. I am loved. What more could I ask for?

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You Can Never Have Too Much Inspiration

7 Sep

After the bulb went off over my head about two years ago and I began researching places to retire, I wasn’t 100% sold on México. Lisa and I had made travel an important part of our life. Every trip, Thailand, Turkey, Belize, even the lesbian capital of the world, Provincetown, MA evoked the question, “could we live here?” I guess it was clear that Texas wasn’t our final destination.

Saying adiós to family before leaving Austin.

Saying adiós to family before leaving Austin.

During the research period, a movie came out, with Judi Dench, Maggie Smith, and Dev Patel called, The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel (for the elderly and beautiful). It isn’t often that a movie has almost all it’s main characters in their sixties and seventies. It also made me laugh out loud.

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A group of aging Brits moves to India to seek an affordable retirement. They discover, that the hotel they are moving into has been photo shopped on the internet by its young and optimistic owner,  played by Dev Patel (Slum Dog Millionaire). His enthusiasm for the future invokes trust (also the fact that they all bought one-way tickets); drama and mayhem ensues.

The south end of Laguna Bacalar.

The south end of Laguna Bacalar.

Besides the joy I experienced watching these characters make choices that transform their lives, there are wonderful inspirational dichos, sayings, that are really the take-away message.

The measure of success is how we cope with disappointment. Disappointment is all about living in the past and wishing things had been different. It took me a long time to figure out that it’s a distraction which keeps me from learning and making different choices now.

There's always a storm somewhere.

There’s always a storm somewhere.

The person who risks nothing, does nothing, has nothing. I have learned along the way the pitfalls of choosing a life based on safety. It is costly and tastes like cardboard. I love to read inspirational stories of people who step out and grow wings.

Harvesting from our property

Harvesting from our property

All we know about the future is that it will be different. But perhaps what we fear is that it will be the same. So we must celebrate the changes. I can never be reminded too often to celebrate the change in this aging body. I am more relaxed and peaceful and that’s big for me. I still exercise but it’s by choice and because it makes me healthier and happier.

Lisa, her mom and me visiting the pyramids of Palenque.

Lisa, her mom and me visiting the pyramids of Palenque.

I am a big believer in filling my life with inspiration. At the same time, I strive to find inspiration in all things. If you haven’t seen The Amazing Marigold Hotel, add it to your list of things that inspire, no matter how old you are.

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And my favorite quote…Everything will be all right in the end and if it’s not, then trust me, it’s not yet the end. 

It’s All About Communication and Therein Lies The Problem

31 Aug

I have always thought I was a good communicator, which of course is the problem. Anytime we’re good at something, it makes it harder to learn.

I have made presentations and conducted training in a room filled with hundreds of people, once with standing room only. My expertise was men and family planning, the needs of young fathers, and the role of routine HIV testing in a reproductive health setting. Maybe if I had a PowerPoint presentation I could communicate better, LOL.

Sunrise near our property.

Sunrise near our property.

The trouble is, I don’t usually know there’s a problem until it hits me upside the head. Have you ever had a conversation with someone, a co-worker, spouse or one of your kids and felt like you were each speaking a different language? It’s like that here, because we ARE! Even someone who has a reasonable command of English, doesn’t really. It’s the same with my Spanish. It’s about so much more than words.

We’re trying to build a house. We are unfamiliar with the procedures in Mexico. As foreigners, the bank holds title to our property, even though it’s paid for. We must give the bank power of attorney to sign all kinds of documents to get permission to build. It’s the way things are done. This week I felt like I was living in that old Abbott and Costello routine, “Who’s On First”. It helps to have a sense of humor, but frustrating when the house we thought we’d be living in by now, hasn’t started construction. Not by a long shot.

While I realize this sounds like complaining and breaking the “no complaining in paradise” rule, I hope it isn’t. I love where I live. The process may be moving along at a snail’s pace but it’s moving. This week I sat on our soon to be neighbor’s patio and looked at where our house will stand. I looked at the lake and listened to the birds and could visualize living right here. I could FEEL it.

The view from our dock.

The view from our dock.

Folks ask often how the house is coming along and I have avoided discussing it. The answer is slowly, very slowly, often due to a failure to communicate.

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No Regrets – A Year Later

24 Aug

This week marks one year since we backed out of our driveway in Austin, Texas for a new life in southern Mexico. We pulled a cargo trailer loaded with all our worldly possessions. There were two kayaks, two bicycles, a rug, couch and lots of tools and yarn that we couldn’t live without, or knew we couldn’t replace.

Off we go!

Off we go!

We had gathered information, visited Bacalar, retired from our jobs, burned our bridges, and took a flying leap. For you who have been following us from the beginning, you know that we were so excited. We were off on Lisa and Alex’s big adventure.

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Looking back over the last year, I would say unequivocally that I wouldn’t change a thing. We have had so much fun. For you who are considering your own adventure of any sort, I have a thought.

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Has it been perfect? Not by a long shot. Have we had doubts, fears and disappointments? You betcha. Have we made mistakes? Tons of them.

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A friend who I hadn’t seen in awhile and who knows me well commented on how peaceful and calm I have become. It’s true. We have a word here – tranquilo. (tran key low). It’s the only way to live.

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It’s Kind Of Like Camping Only Better – My Dad Would Have Been So Proud

17 Aug

Five children, a dog, occasionally my grandmother and a cousin or two joined our childhood camping vacations. It was partly economical but also for the love of being outdoors. My father grew up as a Boy Scout and loved all things merit badge. I learned to build and cook on a campfire, make a sling for a broken arm and identify constellations.  His rule was to leave the campsite cleaner than you found it. My father’s admonitions live in my heart to this day.

Being my father’s daughter has served me well for living in Bacalar in the southern Yucatan. It’s a lot like camping, only better. The windows to our home are persianas which do not seal out the world.

Our alarm clock.

Our alarm clock.

We hear birds squawking, dogs barking, the roosters greeting the sunrise and an occasional goat braying. It’s not all at the same time, usually.

We choose not to use air conditioning even in the heat and humidity of the summer. We cope as do most people here by keeping activity to a minimum during the heat of the day, jumping in the lake in the afternoon and if necessary, taking a shower before bed. The night seems to cool down just enough and we are up with the sunrise.

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 With the windows always open, you can feel the shift in the wind which indicates a possible shower rolling in.

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 My dad would have loved Bacalar. This past week was twenty-eight years since his death. I still see his gait in my son, and his stewardship of the earth in myself and my children. I hope my children and grandchildren will someday share stories of their crazy grandmothers who lived in the jungle in Mexico with their windows open.

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Emilie Vardaman

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