Some Things Just Don’t Translate

10 Apr

When I went to school in the 1970’s in Cholula MX, I lived with a rather poor family who rented rooms to students. One day I came home for lunch and to my dismay, found the teething toddler gnawing happily on a boiled chicken foot.

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If you go to the mercado to purchase a whole chicken, the bag usually includes the feet and sometimes the head. While that is a significant ewww for me, the dogs have no problem with it.

There are two words in Spanish for feet. Pie (pee ay) is for human feet and pata (pah tah) means animal feet or the feet of a chair. Once my friends George and Sandy went all over the market asking for “pie de pollo (chicken). People thought they were a bit loco.

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There is a new restaurant in Bacalar that we’ve been dying to try, Pata de Perro, Foot of the Dog. They opened a lovely second story patio overlooking the town square. I had hoped to try their food before writing the blog, but that didn’t happen. Reports are promising.

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I do my best to eat a plant-based diet, but chicken is the primary food in this neck of the woods. Most people raise and slaughter their own chickens and occasional pigs as well. They have to be healthier running around the yard than the poor caged creatures eaten in the states.

We eat mostly at home since the availability of vegetables in restaurants is not much different in Mexico than in the U.S. It is fun trying new restaurants. I will feature them from time to time. Have a great week. DOS TORTAS

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A Tootle To Merida

3 Apr

Living in the U.S. gives one a certain perspective on automotive travel. It probably has as much to do with traffic, ability to find parking and one’s genetic makeup of hating or liking to drive.

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One of the Pitfalls of Driving in Any Country

While living in Mexico is not so different, it really is. For one thing, bus travel is far more convenient, comfortable and cost effective. Five hours on a bus allows you to catch up on your reading and possibly make a new friend. We took a tootle this week and visited Merida, a four hour drive by auto, just down the street and an ungodly distance by my old life perspective.

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Sunrise Outside Our Room in Merida

We stayed in our favorite Airbnb, visited Lisa’s surgeon and SHOPPED. I can go to the dark side when visiting a big city like Merida. Shopping is very limited where we live in Bacalar, Mexico’s southern frontier. Although, when Home Depot opened in Chetumal, thirty minutes away, the old timers pointed out how easy we had it building our house now, as opposed to “way back when”.

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Finally Found the Illusive Costco!

We got quite lost driving in Merida and spent way too much time in traffic. Remember, when asking directions in Mexico, make sure the person you ask knows how to drive. The little man in the taco stand can not likely give directions, unless he pulls out his iPhone and Google maps.

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We Didn’t Overdose Too Badly

After Costco we drove to Progresso, on the Gulf, just for the heck of it. Lunch on the beach proved entertaining; watching people and seagulls.

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Lisa Checks Out the Seafood Menu

For the week after Easter, things were pretty quiet in this little beach town.

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A Favorite Way To Beat the Heat in Merida

We were both glad to get home. There was a lovely birthday party next door on Friday evening for our neighbor Teresa. Happy seventieth Darling. A relaxing end to a very busy week. DOS TORTAS

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A Funeral For Myself

27 Mar

I learned how to knit at age six or seven. My mother learned from her mother and on up the line of Irish women who’s lives depended, in one way or another on mastering the skill.

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I Love Making Baby Socks

Over the years I have perfected my skills, spent hours making socks, scarves, hats and more hats. Knitting needles have been an extension of my hands and a serious part of my identity.

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Baby Hunter Wearing One of Grandma’s Hats

When packing my “stash” to accompany me to Mexico, I couldn’t image finding the soft wools and alpaca yarns that I cherished. As it was, I gave away bags and bags of yarn at the garage sales that were our weekend activities as we prepared for our move to Bacalar.

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A Fraction of My Yarn Collection

It has taken us two and a half years to build and inhabit our house in the tropical climate along the shore of Laguna Bacalar. During that time, my boxes of yarn and needles have been tucked away in storage only to be opened this week.

As I fondly handled my soft, delicate yarns and needles, I burst into tears. I am no longer THAT person. I do not need to de-stress with the meditative clicking of needles after a long day at a boring government job. My attire no longer includes a differently knotted scarf every day worn in an air conditioned office. I can barely stand to wear a scarf in this climate, even on the coolest day.

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Our Front Entrance in Bacalar MX

I was not prepared for how this whole experience, retiring, moving and now living in Mexico would change me. I’m not saying that I’ll never knit again. That would be silly.

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Hibiscus Blooming in the Yard, After a Brief Shower

How do you define yourself? What if you lost a particular interest or capacity? Giving up my identity as a knitter came as an unexpected shock. I wonder what other surprises life has for me. The tears lasted a few minutes and the funeral took place in my head. I am so grateful for my life. Here’s to the new me that is changing every day. DOS TORTAS

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Aqua-Terra Firma-Cuisine

20 Mar

Visitors think that three to five days is about right for a trip to Laguna Bacalar Mexico. Of course USers never have adequate vacation, so they exhaust themselves trying to relax and do it all. There is a British couple and their three children renting next door for two months. Now that’s a vacation!

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AQUA
Topping a to-do list is all things water. Swimming is obvious, but kayaking, boating (motor and sail), stand-up paddle and wind surfing are readily available. There is also a must visit to Cenote Azul, a unique swimming experience.

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Cenote Azul also provides a cuisine destination.

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Sunrise Kayaking

TERRA FIRMA

If water sports are not your favorite, maybe land activities such as climbing pyramids (with monkey viewing) bird watching, visiting a museum in a genuine pirate fort or a walking tour of small town Mexico will interest you.

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Howler monkeys rocked the jungle when we visited Dzibanche

CUISINE

Let us not forget activities of the culinary sort.

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Chema, owner extraordinaire of La Playita, eat-drink-swim, best of Bacalar

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Eating at Hotel Laguna, best view in town.

The most important activity by far is not an activity at all, it’s spending serious time DOING NOTHING. Whether it’s kicking back on our roof, sunning on the dock or taking a nap in the hammock, a trip to Bacalar must include time to listen to the quiet and enjoy the breeze.

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Luna knows the fine art of siesta

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Up on the roof

So you see, a visit to Bacalar can not possibly fit into 3-5 days. And this isn’t ALL of it. Please share the blog with friends on Facebook and as always, your comments are appreciated. DOS TORTAS

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A Tiny House in Mexico

13 Mar

We have had two days with spotty electricity. There have been blown fuses, and well it’s a long boring story. So instead, I’ll share pictures of Lisa’s mother’s house. 

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A casita on the property.

When we decided to move to Mexico, Lisa and I discussed bringing her mother to live with us.  We brought her to Bacalar on vacation in February 2014 to see if it would be something she would consider. (See blog archives). She was all in!

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Lovely patio with fountain and stairs to the roof

Little did she know that it would take two years to move into her little house.

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About three hundred square feet, she has one bedroom and a spacious porch.

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Lots of niches for her collections

Bathtubs are not common in Mexico, but Alice wanted a small tub.

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Custom Made by Our Builder David

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Mexican tile bathroom

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Talavera sink

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A small kitchen

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The view from her bedroom

Being close by, Alice feels safe and has us to visit. She has been having fun fixing up her little house and planting a garden. We are going kayaking next week if the wind stays calm. She is having a blast.

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Path to our house and the laguna

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Reader Updates

6 Mar

For the last few months we have blogged about the standoff with neighbors, the house construction, and my fall. So what the heck’s going on? Time to spill the beans. 

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Roof Porch

Our lovely roof porch is ready for furniture, plants, comfy cushions, a ceiling fan and lighting. I try not to be in a hurry and allow a space to speak to me. The accessories will show up, along with my kitchen stools, all in good time.

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Kitchen Cabinets

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Bedroom Artwork

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New Dresser Drawers

All woodwork is custom made from locally harvested hardwood cedar.  We have bathroom, living room and studio shelves left. The carpintero is a master. He moves at his own pace and complains weekly about the difficulty of the work. The bathroom shelves will be curved. This week he scratched his head while taking measurements and said, “pero sí se puede“, but yes, it can be done. He then preens when I tell him that he is just the man for the challenge.

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“Goat”Fence

Ah, the neighbors…we put up what is known as a goat fence on the lower level of the property to allow Luna to be outside off leash and unable to escape. Apparently the neighbors thought is was some sort of claim to their property and tore it down. The municipality will not override the federal marker in the laguna without going through channels, even though we have tons of supporting evidence that it is in the wrong place. Channels take time. I went over to explain to the workers next door that the fence is for the dog only. We’ll see what happens.

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The Goddess Kwan Yin

My hip is vastly improved since my fall six weeks ago. I am without pain and I’ve returned to my usual exercise routine of stretching, going to the gym and daily swimming. Lisa’s mom has moved into her own house and things are quiet. Time to finish unpacking and settle in. Life is good. DOS TORTAS

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The Best Day Ever

28 Feb

This week included the fun celebration of my birthday. I love turning 64 and all the learning opportunities that come with it. We had guests visiting from Austin and it was delightful to see their eyes sparkle as they took in our home and our laguna. Photos can’t compare with direct experience.

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Alex and Isa taking selfies at Restaurant La Playita

The fall I took a month ago limited the activities available to us for the day. I decided against visiting the prison in Chetumal where prisoners make and sell hammocks and other artesanias. Too much walking. I’ve also wanted to take my mother-in-law to Mahahual on the Caribbean. There’s a lovely malecón/boardwalk, and we pass an organic farm on the way home. Again, too much walking. So with our friend David driving, we went to visit the Mennonite community west of Bacalar.

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David took us to visit a family that he had worked with previously. The dad is an ace mechanic. We got to take some pictures with the family. They gave us homemade cheese and rolls. The Mennonites speak high German and enough Spanish to bring their wares to market.

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Cow’s milk cheese and homemade rolls made a tasty lunch.

Life is simple and that includes transportation.

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Horse-pulled buggies with blond, blue eyed children checking us out.

The afternoon wrapped up back at home with a birthday cake among friends.

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Mocha tres leches mmmmm.

It was such a sweet day. And truth be told. Everyday is the best day of my life.

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Papa Francisco’s Visit To Mexico

21 Feb

This week, I was able to watch Mexican TV while visiting a friend and avoiding the fumes of sealing our concrete floors. Most channels were devoted to coverage of the Pope’s visit to Mexico. I was raised Catholic and have mixed feelings about The Church, but this day I was in awe of this Pope and his message. 

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The crowds gathered in Chiapas.

The mass celebrated in the mountainous region of Chiapas was devoted to the indígenas of Mexico. Most people don’t know that there are a million people in the state of Chiapas alone who’s first language is not Spanish. They are the poorest and the proudest. They came in droves and dressed in their best. As the cameras scanned the crowd, it was fun to see simple people recognize themselves on the huge TV screens set up for optimal viewing.

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Forgive my photos of a TV.

Parts of the celebration were in Tzotzil and Tzelta. A line of men and women in native garb took turns addressing the Pope. I was hoping for someone to go off script, but it didn’t happen.

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The women’s voices were given equal time.

The Pope asked for forgiveness for the decimation of native populations by the Church, government and European invaders.

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The Pope’s message spoken to common people.

While many attacked the Pope’s message as nothing but empty words, I was most impressed by his asking for help with climate change. People who live simple lives, close to the land have a lot to teach the rest of us. If we will only listen.

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It’s been a week of laying low and continued rest. The Pope’s message gave me hope, which is in short supply these days while observing the US political shenanigans. Maybe Hilary and Bernie could run together. Now wouldn’t that be an interesting possibility. Please post comments below. DOS TORTAS

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Liar Liar

14 Feb

When thinking about writing this week, absolutely nothing came to mind. Nada, zilch, zero. I tried, pondered, came across some options and dismissed them. Basically I’m lying and I’m trying to keep it hidden. Pants on fire and all that.

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Hanging out with Luna.

I am still recovering from a fall. I wrote about it in a blog two weeks ago and failed to share that it was more than a sprained ankle.

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I have hardly been out of the house.

I returned to the doctor with groin pain and an x-ray revealed a compressed pubic bone. The doctor prescribed six weeks of rest, reposo. I’m not good at reposo.

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Landscaping along the Laguna.

So when I went to write this week’s blog entry, I had no pithy story or philosophical awareness to share. The truth is, I’m embarrassed. I guess I think you won’t hang with me if I’m not entertaining or profound. Super woman I am not. No sympathy please. My body is healing. I’m trying not to take the pain personal and instead be grateful. Hope you have a great week. Mine will be, because I said so!

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Let’s Workout!

7 Feb

When Dos Tortas scouted Laguna Bacalar in southern Mexico as a possible retirement location, we boated on the lake, sampled the cuisine and met members of the expat community. We cruised the streets, shopped in the mercado, and attended a cultural event, all in an effort to imagine ourselves living in this quaint little town. What we didn’t do was visit the gym. 

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The Gold’s Gym of Bacalar

Prior to moving to Mexico from Austin, Texas, I had a gym membership and worked out regularly. We had a large yoga studio within walking distance and dozens of hike and bike trails.

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A bit antiquated but surprisingly adequate.

When we moved to Mexico, we brought our own gym, kettle bells, exercise ball, bicycles, yoga videos, kayaks and more. All were adequate until Lisa had back surgery and her doctor prescribed workouts on a stationary bike. Mmmmmm.

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Lisa and her mom scoping out the equipment.

While the attendance of three older women is looked at with curiosity by the youthful attendees, everyone is respectful, especially when it’s clear that we mean business. Cost? 250 pesos a month, less than $15 for unlimited visits.

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Living an adventurous life means making daily choices to do the things we need to stay strong and healthy. We like to mix it up, so our funky gym is absolutely perfect. What do you do for exercise? DOS TORTAS

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