the adventures of dos tortas

A Simple Life In The Tropics? Mmmm

It’s been relatively quiet in the jungles of southern Mexico this week. Lisa and her mom were both sick, cough, sore throat and other symptoms I won’t share. I don’t know if it’s my genes or what, but I seldom get sick. On the whole we do pretty well. We try to take turns with our maladies.

While walking the dogs one day this week I discovered an enormous pile of garbage dumped on the highway near the turnoff to our property. I learned that a double tractor trailer flipped in the early morning hours leaving its load behind. What an eyesore! I will talk to our neighbors and see what if anything can be done. The pile is mostly bottles and concrete. Mexico is large enough to hide its trash. How inconsiderate to leave it out in the open! Perhaps they can incorporate it into the Mayan Train somehow.

The sign in the corner belongs to the new hotel across from us. I can’t imagine they’ll allow this mess to stay here.

Next there was water leaking on the floor of our garage. Finding a reliable plumber has been a challenge. The Mayan Train and resulting hotel construction has sucked up skilled laborers. I spent days getting no responses or asking “do you know anyone else?” I’ve found that who you know and who THEY know can sometimes get you the help you need.

Pump from our rain collection system was hauled off for maintenance.

We continue to learn things about living in a tropical environment, even after ten years. For example, any system that we have installed must have regular maintenance duh!, ie electrical, septic, cistern, and basically anything with a pump. Water is hard and calcium clogs the lines. Everything rusts and molds. We plan on installing a water softening system this year which will also require maintenance. Solar is somewhere down the road.

Our house is not airtight. No air conditioning. We wake to birdsong and the rustling of palm trees and the laguna lapping the shore. It’s a trade off but we love our “glamping” lifestyle.

I suppose that’s it for another week in the jungle. Y’all come back now ya hear.

DOS TORTAS

Tags: expat living in Mexico, Inspiration, Laguna Bacalar, retire mexico, unexpected

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No New Year Resolutions Here

30 Dec

There was a time when I attempted to make New Year’s resolutions. What could be more inviting than a clean slate, and a chance to start new? I’m pretty disciplined and used the wall calendar to note progress. But let’s face it, if it were something that I really wanted to do, I’d already be doing it!

I then found something that worked much better for me. The process not only encouraged gratitude but pride and confidence. And it’s easy!

2023 was a colorful year to say the least.

In a journal or on a simple piece of paper, write 2023. Now over the next few days write down all that you accomplished this past year. Nothing is too small or seemingly inconsequential. Just write it down.

When that is completed, Write on another sheet, 2024. Now note all the things you’d like to accomplish in the upcoming year. Nothing is too fanciful. You can write personal or work accomplishments, trips, or any task you’d like to tackle. Put them all down with little thought or mental argument.

Put the journal away someplace where you’ll find it next year. It could be in with your Christmas decorations or at the back of your daily calendar. There is no need to come up with a game plan, strategy or any additional tactics, of course unless you want to. While it may sound a bit woo-woo, you have planted seeds and set an intention with absolutely no pressure. Voila!

My personal experience has always amazed me. When I review the previous year, I am amazed to find how many of the things on the list I have accomplished. I rarely remember what I even wrote down!

I find it helpful to take stock of my life in a positive no-pressure way. The lists also become a walk down memory lane and are a fun history. Let me know if you give it a try and we’ll check back next year to see how it went.

Wait for it.

DOS TORTAS

Tags: 2024 goal setting, gratitude, Inspiration, Laguna Bacalar, retire mexico

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Staying Present

23 Dec

I grew up with four brothers. We were not a “touchy feely” family and scattered to the four winds as soon as we reached adulthood. My oldest brother, almost nine years my senior, left home at seventeen to join the military. We spent very little time together after that.

My first Christmas, held by my big brother. 1952

Ken was the black sheep. He was often the brunt of family jokes. During his recent visit to Bacalar I learned quite a lot about him. I’ve always known that he was extremely intelligent. He is painfully smart, we’re talking a human walking encyclopedia smart. And I got a glimpse of how difficult that sort of brain has made his life.

Before our youngest brother was born. Circa 1956

Lisa and I took turns hanging out with him. She had far more patience. I did my best to practice being present and not letting our familial relationship get in the way.

It was clear that Ken was very glad to be spending time with me. It felt nice to have him see my life. We showed him around our little corner of the globe, ate good food (made by us and at local eateries) and went through photos and movies. We talked family history and shared memories. It was good.

I admit that I was nervous about him coming to visit. Not all my childhood memories of growing up with four brothers are good ones. None of us had a perfect childhood and adult sibling relationships can be complicated. He is eighty years old and I’m sorry it’s taken us this long.

DOS TORTAS

Tags: adult sibling relationships, Inspiration, Laguna Bacalar, retire mexico

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Be Careful What You Ask For

17 Dec

Bacalar is beautiful. Our house is a work of art. For ten years we have invited friends and family and shown pictures to entice them to visit. Our motivation has been as much to share this place as it is to see people. Very few have taken us up on the invitation. Maybe one visitor per year for the last ten years. We have been the ones to do the traveling, to Texas, California and Florida.

In October Lisa’s aunt came for two months. Aunt Linda stays with Alice and is no trouble. She is however another person for dinner and the shopping is non stop. The sisters are a duo, heads together, talking old times. They’re like a pair of magpies.

Sisters Linda and Alice and Lisa at the beach in Mahahual.

I dropped Linda at the airport for her return to California and picked up our friends Dan and Lisa. We had a fun-filled two weeks. We dropped them back at the airport and picked up my brother. In the middle of my brother’s visit was Lisa’s 60th birthday.

A small gathering of good friends was a delight.

We have been tour guides, chefs, chauffeurs and entertainers. Nothing makes you appreciate routine like non-stop activity.

Don’t get me wrong, we have enjoyed every minute. No complaints. Next time however I think we will work on the timing. You’re all welcome to visit, just not at the same time.

DOS TORTAS

Tags: guests, Inspiration, Laguna Bacalar, lesbians living in mexico, retire mexico

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Feminine Spirit Guadalupe

10 Dec

December 12 is the feast of the Virgin of Guadalupe. She is such an important Mexican icon, that she gets a bank holiday. For me, she is the feminine expression of God. I was raised Catholic and walked away from that dogma in high school. Somehow I have found a way back.

This work of art has a predominant place in our house and in our hearts.

As I have aged, I have found my way to a less intellectual God and more to a heartfelt appreciation for creation. Guadalupe is my sister, friend and mother. Her presence adorns my house in every room.

A gift from my sister-in-law who died of Covid. We had this niche created for her when we built our house.

I am reminded of her holiday by the presence of the Guadalupanas (pilgrims) along the highway. They mostly ride bicycles adorned with her image and the red, white and green of the Mexican flag. They ride in clusters with matching shirts, often in sandals. Sometimes there is a support vehicle, sometimes not. I’m not sure of their destination, perhaps Tulum which is two hours by automobile.

I wonder what the pilgrims’ stories are. Is their motivation a petition or gratitude for a prayer answered? The site of her original apparition is outside of Mexico City. We visited in 2017. Twenty million visit annually with nine million around December 12, her feast day.

Both the new basilica on the right and the older on the left. Mexico City in the background. Lisa and I are standing on the site of the original apparition.

DOS TORTAS

This week is the anniversary of my dear Aunt Irene’s death. She was 100 and devout Catholic. Guadalupe surely welcomed her with open arms.

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We Have Guests!

3 Dec

The year was 2019. You remember 2019, back before the word Covid ever crossed our lips or took up real estate in our brains. Lisa and I went on an epic trip, Miami to Los Angeles through the Panama Canal. While breakfasting on the back deck of the Azamara cruise ship we met Dan and Lisa. Breakfast turned into friendship and we’ve kept in touch ever since.

On the cruise, Dan and Lisa looked at pictures of Bacalar and oood and aaahd appropriately and declared that they would come visit. Given our past experience with guests, we gave each other “the look” and wink, wink and said, sure, we’d love to have you.

Staying in Playa del Carmen on our way to Bacalar.

Four years later, they’re here and I can’t believe it. We have a week of show and tell planned. There’s a boat tour of the laguna tomorrow, pyramids, the pirate fort and of course mercados and downtown. For now they’re content with sitting on the roof and taking in the view.

Can you tell we’re excited!

DOS TORTAS

Tags: Inspiration, Laguna Bacalar, retire mexico, travel adventures

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Magical Valladolid MX

25 Nov

We first visited Valladolid in 2014. Time sure does fly. This week I wanted a little getaway and made the four hour drive. Valladolid is in the heart of the Yucatán and was the center of Mayan resistance during the mid 1800’s. These wirey small people fought off the federal government, Spanish, US and pirates with machetes. I gotta give them props.

I love Villadolid’s zocalo (town square), regal cathedral and stately convent. There is a busy mercado, several cenotes (natural pools) and world class pyramids of Ek Balam and Chichen Itza.

Franciscan Convent of San Bernardino, a favorite place for locals.

Having been to Valladolid several times, I wasn’t there to join the throngs of tourists but to wander the streets, eat good food and sketch.

Maybe the best veggie burger ever! #yerbabuena

French toast, vegan tacos, capuchino and waffles. All yummy.

I also visited the Casa de Los Venados, House of the Deer. The private 18,000 square foot home/museum of the US art collectors and philanthropists John and Dorianne Venator. This was my third visit. There aren’t sufficient words to describe the gift that the Venators have given to Mexico and the world. There are over 3,000 folk art pieces owned by private citizens.

My first attempt at a slide show!

After three days I was ready to come home to Bacalar. As we head into the holidays, take time to appreciate the beauty that surrounds and the people you love. I appreciate the comments left by readers. Thank you for hanging with me and sharing this bumpy ride called life.

DOS TORTAS

Tags: casa de los venados, Inspiration, Laguna Bacalar, retire mexico, Valladolid

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Do I Really Want Friends?

19 Nov

Last week we celebrated the Hindu festival of Diwali around a communal table with people we had just met. I tell myself and whoever will listen that I want more people in my life ie friends. Most of the legacy people that we met in Bacalar when we arrived ten years ago, have aged out, sold their homes and moved on. The community that we thought we were moving into, disintegrated like crumbling Mayan pyramids.

I sat at dinner last Saturday between two men. They each sat with their body turned away from me talking to the person on the opposite side. This behavior is something that I’m used to. I find that I am invisible to most men. As an old woman (71), men rarely give me the time of day. As a lesbian too, I do not flirt or dress to please. I’ve given up that game a long time ago.

And then something surprising happened. Terry, to my left, began to engage with me. The man HE had been talking to was flirting with the women at the other end of the table. That left me. We talked, Mayan Train, health, family and diet. He did some mansplaining about things that I was quite knowledgeable about, so I listened.

Jey our chef extraordinaire. Me second on the right.

The evening was enjoyable, although I learned something about myself. I really don’t do well in crowds, even small ones. I disengage or talk to one person at a time. In the past, I’ve made the decision to get to know someone by really going after them, a brunch date or an invitation to our house. And like anything else, sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn’t. I’m about 25% success rate.

Covid allowed me to be a hermit and my friendship muscles have atrophied. I have a gym acquaintance who owns a restaurant in Bacalar and who is willing to host a monthly expat gathering. I’m going to get the word out on social media. We will start in the new year. For me the personal stretch of those underutilized friendship muscles will be to show up and engage. And just maybe I will find a new friend.

DOS TORTAS

Tags: friendship, Inspiration, Laguna Bacalar, retire mexico, US Expats in Mexico

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The Celebration Of Light

11 Nov

Thanks to Bacalar local and chef extraordinaire Jey Mazumder, Lisa and I had an opportunity to celebrate the Hindu festival of Diwali and partake of an Indian feast among new friends.

A fun time was had by all.

“What is Diwali, the Festival of Lights, and how is it celebrated in India and the diaspora? Diwali is the most important festival of the year in India — and for Hindus in particular. It is celebrated across faiths by more than a billion people in the world’s most populous nation and the diaspora.” Google

Diwali is celebrated differently around the world. It usually lasts a few days and involves house cleaning, lighting candles, and the Goddess of wealth, Lakshmi. In Bacalar we celebrated by eating.

The vista for our evening.

It had been raining all day and we appreciated the break to feast and dodge mosquitoes. Happy Diwali to all.

DOS TORTAS

Tags: Diwali, indianfood, Laguna Bacalar, retire mexico, Spice of India Bacalar

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Going Batty In Bacalar

5 Nov

Austin, Texas USA is the home of the largest urban bat colony in the world. I’m not sure how anyone knows. Maybe the count wings and divide by two?

I have witnessed this phenomenon many times and it is truly spectacular.

When I lived in Austin in the 1970’s the free-tailed bats that migrated from Mexico in the spring to have their babies, were thought to be pests. Then someone said, “we could make money!” and they became a tourist attraction and the subject of festivals, swag and even a hockey team.

Yes, there’s a hockey team in Austin, Texas.

Bats eat three times their weight a night in mosquitoes and agricultural pests. They are also great pollinators and an essential part of the ecosystem. My dad loved bats and I was raised with a healthy respect. My mother on the other hand was over the top terrified of them .

While living in Austin we put up a bat house to invite occupancy. I never saw signs of any tenants. However, here in Bacalar, we have residents in the palapa directly outside our front door. You’d think I’d be thrilled. Mmmm not so much.

The bats forage at night and sleep all day. They also poop down the side of our house and on the pathway below. I tried some clever discouragement but they laughed in my face.

Wind chimes and things glittery. No deterrent.

I don’t want them to leave, just live somewhere else. They seem quite intent on staying however and I think we’re going to have to make peace with it. Kind of like the rest of life don’t you think?

DOS TORTAS