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We Plan God Laughs

4 Oct

We planned one back surgery and ended up with two! After days of severe pain and numbness, following spinal fusion, the doctor reopened the surgical site to clean out the wound and remove the spacer he had inserted five days prior.

We stayed in the hospital a few more days. Any plans of returning to Bacalar over the weekend were shot to hell. While Lisa was in surgery, I got a clear-sky hospital view of the lunar eclipse.

Forgive my goofy photo. It's what happens with no sleep and high stress.

Forgive my goofy photo. It’s what happens with no sleep and high stress.

We had so much unexpected support during our eleven days in Merida. Our Airbnb hosts visited the hospital with flowers and food. Our friends Gabriel and Monica left a family reunion to be with us in the hospital. The love was overwhelming. The owner of a little hotel we’d stayed at showed at the hospital and took me to dinner. I can’t even describe what it was like to be so cared for.

Now here’s the kicker. I’m sick. I came down with a mosquito born illness called chikengunya. The main symptom at the moment is fatigue. It’s taken me hours to write this blog. So I will post a few exterior house photos and call it quits.

DOS TORTAS

Our lovely entrance. I looking for a bench.

Our lovely entrance. I’m looking for the perfect bench.

The path around the front.

The path around the front.

North side with our little stand of bamboo.

North side with our little stand of bamboo.

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When You Come Through A Storm

27 Sep

imageWith Lisa’s surgery this week….please enjoy puppy pictures. Our Luna is having the time of her little life back in Bacalar. I’m afraid she will find us boring upon our return. The Tortas will be back next weekend. Our Internet is up and running in our new house after all!!

She likes the BIG dogs. Our friend Olga's dog, Monte Carlo.

I  like the BIG dogs. My friend Olga’s dog, Monte Carlo.

I was very tiny when the Tortas adopted me

At first I was too weak to climb the stairs, but not now!

At first I was too weak to climb the stairs, but not now!

We share.

Bonita is my new friend. We share.

Sleeping on me the bed, busted!

Sleeping on the bed, busted!

With my girl Bonita. We're all ears.

We’re all ears.

Thanks Alex and Austin for the great pictures and taking such good care of our girl.

Starting A Whole New Chapter

20 Sep

Arriving at the doctors office, I found the place packed. Doctors in Mexico have evening and Saturday hours as a norm. My doctor’s wife is also a doctor and they have alternating schedules to share care of their young children. I think that’s pretty cool.

It didn’t take me long to realize that the crowd was due to the fact that no one goes to the doctor alone in Mexico. The office next to Dr Rosaldo is that of an OB/GYN. A young woman and her husband came out and half the room stood up. Grandparents, et. al. were there for the news, “it’s a girl”. The family also seemed to know everyone in the room. Heads nodded and congratulations were expressed. The woman sitting next to me quietly leaned over and shared that the couple had an eleven year old daughter and were hoping for a boy. I thought I detected a less than enthusiastic response.

Our daughter moved into her third trimester. She is expecting a boy. Myself I never wanted to know ahead of time. It felt like spoiling Christmas morning to me.

From a few months ago. Aren't they lovely?

From a few months ago. Aren’t they lovely?

This week we head to Merida for Lisa’s back surgery. It’s a long story going back to a military airborne accident. There’s a time when life turns into pain management and you know you’re ready for more extreme measures. Now is that time.

After my swim across the Laguna. My cheerleader.

After my swim across the Laguna. My cheerleader of twenty-one years, Lisa.

When we return to Bacalar for physical therapy and recovery, it will be to our new home. Yesterday, with the help of our project manager, David, we moved the trailer that accompanied us on our sojourn two years ago.

Anyone need to buy a trailer?

Anyone need to buy a trailer?

Within minutes our workers had offloaded our couch, artwork and many other things we hadn’t seen since Texas. ¡Qué emoción! to see the empty trailer.

Thank you David!

Thank you David!

David and I spent the afternoon unpacking. Part of Lisa’s therapy will be to organize and create order, a task she excels at and loves.

The pantry fills.

The pantry fills.

We have the promise of several weeks of meal delivery which will help immensely. I haven’t seen my “kitchen” in two years (dishes, pots and pans).

The stairway to heaven finished.

The stairway to heaven finished.

Send your prayers and good thoughts. I will do my best to post on FACEBOOK. We are starting a whole new chapter in a new home. DOS TORTAS

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Meet The Newest Torta – Luna

13 Sep

EVERYONE in Bacalar had told us “you need to get a dog”. We smiled and nodded and voiced some minor objections. We have never owned a dog (together) in the twenty one years of our relationship. Our busy lives and raising kids didn’t leave a lot of room. So how the heck do we now have three dogs???

Left in a bag on the street covered in ticks and fleas.

Left in a bag on the street covered in ticks and fleas.

Bacalar is a small town. Dogs can be seen running the streets, skeletal, covered in mange and injured. It is too big a problem for us bleeding heart expats to do much about. But it can make a difference to one dog, or three.

Dogs eat garbage, protect the home on a short chain and are dismissed as having much of a life at all. I’ve blogged on the topic previously.

A trip to the vet. Everything checked out.

A trip to the vet. Everything checked out.

Luna came into our lives when our friends heard whimpering in the middle of the night and found her. She was in bad shape unable to lift her head to eat. After some tender mercies she rallied and was soon showing her sweet disposition. We were smitten with puppy love at first meeting.

She definitely prefers a full body siesta.

She definitely prefers a full body siesta.

Life is full of puppy training videos, chew toys and hourly trips to “go potty”. She is about eight weeks old. Sleep when the baby sleeps does not only apply to humans.

Luna loves belly rubs.

Luna loves belly rubs.

We are now moms to a lively, intelligent, teething, and most welcome little critter. Oh, and the other two? Cielo and Sol have moved into our house before we did. Mexican street dogs are very loyal. Give them a regular meal and a head pat and they’re yours forever. A good reason we’re going to fence the yard.DOS TORTAS

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Oh My God I Live With Dos Tortas

6 Sep

Olga – “Remember the time you did that juice fast and you wanted me to do it with you?? Hahaha!”
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Living with Olga has been a blessing. When we suddenly lost our previous living arrangement, she stepped in to offer us a place to stay. We didn’t know each other well, but with the connection of a mutual friend, we gave it a go.

Olga, far left at our wedding reception in Bacalar.

Olga, far left at our wedding reception in Bacalar.

Olga is an accomplished businesswoman in Bacalar. She owns a thriving laundromat along the Costera. Her campground/hostel Jardin de Venus (Venus’s Garden) is always teaming with backpackers from around the world.

Lisa is definitely the glue. She is way more fun and entertaining than I am. A huge perk for us has been speaking Spanish at home. Our speaking and ability to hear has definitely improved.

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Lisa and Olga.

Lisa – Olga’s been a great source of information and connection for us, from living in Bacalar to building our house. Small town Mexico is so much about who you know, and with knowing Olga, we’re in!

Olga – You both are very respectful of privacy and considerate of my space. We will always be friends and it’s nice to have people I trust.

Thank you Olga. We rented a room and made a friend. DOS TORTAS

The stub wall in our guest bath. We brought the glass blocks from Austin and were determined they were to go somewhere.

The stub wall in our guest bath. We brought the glass blocks from Austin and were determined they were to go somewhere.

Shelves the the bodega (pantry).

Shelves the the bodega (pantry).

Large screens finished on the porch.

Large screens finished on the porch.

The doors and windows will be installed this week. Another step closer.
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What You Really Need is a Sense of Humor

30 Aug

The heck with fearlessness! Forget optimism. Without a sense of humor you will never make it as a foreigner living in Mexico. 

With permission from my friend Carla who does Facebook stand-up.

“My bottle of over-the-counter drugs contained pills in two different colors.
*Scenario one – Darn, we’re out of transparent gel caps. I’ll just use those brown ones until the new boxes come in.
*Scenario two – Hey, this bottle is only three/quarters full. That won’t do. Let’s see, there are some extras over here. Antibiotics? Ok can’t hurt, I’ll use them.

Two months later, I think it was scenario one”

Hahaha. Seriously this could happen to you!

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As I see it, my choices are:

Leave

Live here and be miserable and complain incessantly, or

Get a sense of humor.

I choose the latter although many folks choose door number two and of course some people leave.

Laugh at death!

This week I went to retrieve the final approval to build LIsa’s mother’s house. A mistake on the part of our former builder, plus a regime change in the government agency equalled additional time and more $$$. We had received notice that the paperwork was ready so off I went to SEMARNAT, the agency that regulates waterfront construction.

Sitting behind her computer, the officer began typing. She stared at the screen intently, typed a little more and stared some more. I waited, and waited, took some deep breaths, and stayed calm. Gringos are notorious for being impatient. Finally I asked in my friendliest voice if there was a problem? She shrugged her shoulders and declared the network “slow”. It does no good to be frustrated with the lack of communication. “In a minute” could mean a half hour (if you’re lucky).

Mañana doesn’t mean tomorrow. It means just not today.

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As the move-in date comes and goes for our new home, we keep busy and know the universe has its own timeline. Our house is full of workers laying tile, painting the floor, building a stone entry, sanding concrete counters, installing appliances, lights, ceiling fans and more. Our bulldog project manager David meets tomorrow with the key players needed to get electricity installed!! The meeting took four months to arrange. Send prayers.

Tile placement for the stairway to heaven.

Tile placement for the stairway to heaven.

This is a pivotal week. The push is on to finish the interior so that we can begin moving. In the meantime, no taking ourselves too seriously. If it’s not fun, it’s not worth doing. DOS TORTAS
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Life Is Hard – It’s Harder If You’re Stupid

23 Aug

August 2013 we left Austin, Texas for retirement in Mexico. After more than a year of research and planning, visiting and asking questions, we thought we knew something of what we were getting into. Jajaja – that’s laughing in Spanish.

Two years later we are still not living in our own home. Dismantling our expectations has been a daily practice. We are however within spitting distance of completing construction, but my patience is wearing thin. Lisa on the other hand is calm, cool and collected. A real role reversal for us! She is keeping me sane, saner? sanish? Here is a house progress report.

The palm frond overhangs protect from sun and rain. They will be completed is week.

The palm frond overhangs protect from sun and rain. They will be completed this week.

Creating the mold for a poured concrete bathroom sink.

Creating a rebar mold for a poured concrete bathroom sink.

A lip creates an area for potted plants to create a

A lip creates an area for potted plants to create a “jungle” in our shower. Note the light from skylights.

Yesterday we sat in the corner of our porch enjoying the breeze. We've come so far.

Yesterday we sat in the corner of our porch enjoying the breeze. We’ve come so far.

Tile on the roof adds another layer of insulation.

Tile on the roof adds another layer of insulation from the heat.

The appliances have been purchased. The windows will be installed this week. As rooms are finished we can begin to move items from our present location. We are so close. My present anxiety is clearly stupid. There is no hurry. I am believing the lie that my happiness is dependent on where I live. I could be happy if only…. It’s a good thing I have Lisa who chooses to be happy no matter what. We make a good team.

DOS TORTAS

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The One Quality Most Needed to Live in Mexico

16 Aug

When life is so much about being safe, how do I process someone taking a risk, sticking their neck out and saving my bacon?

When we left for the good life in Mexico, everything went…paperless…bill paying, most communications, and all banking. We dotted our i’s and crossed our t’s. We even closed on the sale of our house in Austin from Mexico. It’s easy to feel confident and capable, even a little smug about our ability to live electronically in two worlds, that is until something goes wrong.

Pulling out of our drive in Austin two years ago with everything we own.

Pulling out of our drive in Austin two years ago with everything we own.

Last week I called the investment company where I have been squirreling away money for years. We had been planning to draw funds from the account for the final leg of our house construction. Apparently I had not set up banking information with them as to where to transfer money when I needed a withdrawl. Darn.

Sometimes it's like this, an angel riding shotgun with death in the backseat.

Sometimes it’s like this, an angel riding shotgun with disaster in the backseat.

I discovered that setting up the transfer would take much paperwork, a bank guarantee and a thirty day waiting period. But, but, I live in Mexico!! I’m building a house, I need the money NOW! On top of it all, the conversations were being conducted via Skype which dropped calls repeatedly requiring much redialing.

My dear wife and fellow Torta. What a ride it's been. (The god of corn with cacao pods.)

My dear wife and fellow Torta. What a ride it’s been. (The god of corn with cacao pods.)

I began with the person who answered the phone. After explaining what I wanted, was transferred to their boss, and eventually to THE boss, working my way up the chain of command trying not to sound victimy and whiney. (Not too good with that.) Each step I attempted to convince the person that apologies for putting me on hold were unnecessary. Explaining the rules were mostly unnecessary. I was looking for a loophole.

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I understand that the procedures are in place to protect ME from a slick impersonator wiping out our savings. Requiring a bank guarantee of signature is actual insurance stating that I am me and my signature is mine. To transfer money without that written guarantee meant someone sticking their neck out and probably getting fired if I were a really really good scam artist. And that someone was head boss Maurice. In my book, the man is an angel. He gave me a list of all the documents he would need to make the transfer and provide the loophole. He made no guarantees. I even threw in a few receipts he didn’t ask for just in case. I wish I could have included a dozen roses.

Orchids blooming near an ancient pyramid.

Orchids blooming near an ancient pyramid.

I travelled this week to the U.S. Consulate in Cancun to get a copy of my passport notarized and sent an envelope of documents off via Fedex. Fingers crossed and gods invoked.

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Yesterday the package arrived in New York. I won’t know for a few days if Maurice is convinced and the money is transferred. Our only option at this point is to stay calm and keep building. The one quality most needed to retire in Mexico?….fearlessness. And optimism doesn’t hurt. DOS TORTAS

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A Not So Fun Ending To A Fun Vacation.

9 Aug

“Hiking?!! Why would you do that?!” was my friend Bella’s response to my swollen purple knee. Ha, she doesn’t know me very well. But that was Tuesday, so let me back up….

My last Sunday in San Miguel de Allende presented a cool clear morning and I was eager to soak it up before returning to the humidity that is Bacalar. Retired expats plan lots of activities in San Miguel and my host Nancy invited me to join in the Sunday morning hiking group. I, unlike Bella am always up for a hike, so off we went.

Serious hikers.

Serious hikers gathered at the gas station.

I guessed from the hiking boots and walking sticks that the group meant business. Never one to backdown, I didn’t ask questions as to the level of difficulty, type of trail etc. I also didn’t take into consideration the amount of rain we’d been having or my inadequate footwear. Little did I know the price I would pay.

Heading west.

Heading west.

Everyone spread out as the leaders kept a brisk pace.

Gentle incline.

Gentle incline.

While this wasn’t a technical hike, San Miguel sits over 6,000 feet. Being a sea-level dweller, I found myself expending some effort to keep up.

Mountain mist and muddy terrain.

Mountain mist and muddy terrain.

Picking and choosing my steps through the runoff, I actually stepped out of my shoe at one point as the mud grabbed hold and refused to let me go. And then finally…the top and a lovely view of San Miguel and the scrubby terrain.
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Lunch break.

Lunch break.

The return trip was much quicker (downhill usually is). I listened in on the conversations. Some folks were full-timers and others like many retirees who love to travel, merely call San Miguel home-base. The main grumble was the traffic and parking. As attachment to individual transportation shows no sign of letting up, I am not surprised. However to their credit, the group encourages car-pooling and pays drivers for rides and gas.

And down we went.

And down we went.

A winding muddy trail.

A winding muddy trail.

We were ten minutes from the cars and I was ready to be done, perhaps too ready. The final obstacle was a swollen creek. All it took was one wobbly rock and down I went. I hit my knee hard, but saved the iPad, which of course is the most important thing!
imageBy Monday I was in considerable pain, bruised and swollen and wondering how I would travel back to Mexico City and catch the flight home to Bacalar. More information was needed so off we went to the emergency room. Less than an hour and a hundred dollars later I was X-rayed and learned that nothing was broken, thank God. For my ride to the airport on Wednesday, I took a shuttle from door to gate which was a big help. Two weeks later I am still healing and doing the dance, so to speak, between rest, pain meds, and walking. The house completion is moving at lightning speed. Let the packing begin! DOS TORTAS
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The Sistine Chapel of the Americas – Atotonilco

2 Aug

During my recent visit to San Miguel, I used my host’s weekly tennis match, to amble down the road to the chapel of Atontonilco, aka the Sistine Chapel of the Americas. The village’s annual celebration had taken place the weekend prior and the fragrance of fresh cut flowers still filled the air. The church dates back to the mid-1700’s and was built after Father Luis Felipe Alfaro stopped to rest under a mesquite tree and had a dream. Jesus wearing a crown of thorns instructed him to build the church, and the rest is history. Buses of penitents visit daily.

Main Alter

Main Alter

A side nave dedicated to the Virgin of the Rosary was built in 1766.

Note the Gold Leaf

Note the Gold Leaf

We had previously visited this church in February 2014 when the Tortas passed through San Miguel. A side chapel (1759-1776) was closed for renovation at the time. This visit, I gladly paid my $15 pesos, about a dollar and passed through the gate to see the new area.

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The Crucifixion of Jesus

I didn’t know where to look first. Every inch of the hall was covered in colorful frescos and life-like statues. It took a few minutes to realize that I was seeing the Way Of The Cross, a depiction of the crucifixion of Jesus. Having been raised Catholic, I knew by heart the images of Good Friday and could almost smell the incense and hear the prayers.

Jesus Dies On the Cross

Jesus Dies On the Cross

For non-Catholics, the imagery can be a bit creepy. People in Mexico who are deeply religious resonate with the suffering. Jesus died for their sins. It’s personal.

Jesus' Body Is Removed From The Cross

Jesus’ Body Is Removed From The Cross

I had the church to myself to wander and was in awe of its beauty and attention to detail. Centuries of faith and devotion were palpable. It is easy to understand how Father Miguel Hidalgo could visit the church on September 16, 1810, and be so inspired that he took the alter banner of the Virgin of Guadalupe and led Mexico’s fight for independence. While few gringos visit Atotonilco, it is well worth the taxi ride from San Miguel. DOS TORTAS image

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