Archive | November, 2025

Hallelujah And Amen

30 Nov

In much of the world, a wedding is quite predictable, the dress, the rings, the cake. When we were invited to the wedding of our Mayan housekeeper Lucero, we jumped at the chance. She is from a postage stamp sized village thirty minutes from Bacalar. It was our fourth wedding in twelve years and they have run the gambit from top shelf to backyard.

Lucero’s dress was stunning and she looked very nervous, like most brides.

This wedding was on a whole different level. Ninety-some percent of Mexico is Christian with most of that Catholic. But not in this area. There are a lot of Mennonites, Jehovah’s Witnesses, Seventh Day Adventists and Pentecostals. We had never been to a Pentecostal wedding.

The first of three preachers.

The wedding started at 6pm on a Thursday. We put on our one “fancy” outfit and prayed that the thunder we heard would not spoil the occasion. The festivities started on time which was no small miracle in Mexico. It was all quite unexpected from there.

The children were adorable and looked at the strangers inquisitively.

The wedding involved standing for most of two plus hours, arms raised, and singing, amen-ing, and hallelujah-ing. Three different preachers tag-teamed to inspire, admonish, and harangue in Spanish. It would have been ok except the volume produced by half a dozen large speakers emitted a sound heard by God themself. I stuffed tissue in my ears but it did not help. We left early.

By the time we left, the seats were filled in. I think the whole town was in attendance.

I hated to leave. It meant so much to Luceto that we would come, and four old white women in a sea of about 200 brown faces did not go unnoticed. The family tried to feed us before we left but our tolerance for bleeding ears was spent.

Lots of sleepy little faces.

There are times that I admire the devotion, enthusiasm, and conviction of religion. My personal spiritual beliefs are quieter and more internal. I am grateful that everyone gets to find their own place, even if it’s not quiet or peaceful but right for them.

DOS TORTAS

Mexico Travel Continues – Palenque 2025

23 Nov

The archeological site of Palenque is one of the most magnificent in Mexico. The Mayan astronomers built towers to observe and record the night sky in 400 AD or thereabouts. I can’t imagine what the night sky must have been like then.

From my visit in 1974
A time before you paid a fee to enter, before parking lots, tour guides and gift shops.

Lisa and I visited Palenque again in 2015 when we brought her mom to live with us in Bacalar.

Waterfalls near the pyramids.

This time, we did not climb the pyramids, but stumbled upon one of the highlights of our two-week trip, Aluxes Ecopark.

As always, YouTube shows off the animals way better than all my photographs.

https://youtu.be/GrygNuuPW9U?si=HEcA__dwbv4S_-vh

The park breeds and releases guacamayas (red tailed macaws), helping to protect and grow their population.

Maybe it was the day we were there, but this out of the way animal reserve provided us with the relaxing day we were looking for. Shaded walking paths and benches allowed us to commune with nature as best as we could.

Plus I got to hug some huge trees.

DOS TORTAS

The Queens Of Hot Chocolate

16 Nov

The Tortas have taken on the challenge of finding the best chocolate in San Cristobal de las Casas. It’s a tough job but someone has to do it. The mountainous state of Chiapas, Mexico is known for its coffee and chocolate. The weather has turned chilly and rainy for us jungle girls. What better excuse than to drink our weight in chocolate!

Coffee for Lisa and chocolate for me.
Dangerously across the street from our hotel.
Lisa on the pedestrian walkway.
View from dinner our first night.
Love the colonial architecture.
Gazebo waiting for Christmas decorations.
Not too sweet with notes of cinnamon.

While we loved San Cristobal, you can see how the narrow streets clogged with traffic and the stone sidewalks worn smooth from pedestrian’s feet have changed the city. Most visitors were Mexican, but we heard a lot of German spoken.

Mexico has so many beautiful towns, and we are eager to visit them all, at least as many as we can. They are called Magical Cities, and San Cristobal was indeed.

DOS TORTAS

Traveling By The Seat Of Our Pants

9 Nov

With only a few days notice, Lisa and I packed up her mother and aunt and headed out for the five hour drive to Merida, at the tip of the Yucatán peninsula. We knew that the city put on a IG worthy Day of the Dead celebration and wanted to join in. We were not disappointed.

Waiting for the parade of the spirits.
Souls leaving the cemetery to visit their families.
The annual visit of the dead.
A Mayan ceremony of blessing before the parade.

The following day, we saw the parade of the Catrinas. Catrina goes back to the French colonization of Mexico and a reporter making fun of how skinny the French women were. They were portrayed as skeletons and are now integral to the Day of the Dead celebration.

Large puppets are a relatively new and fun addition .
The costumes were amazing.

A good time was had by all. Alice and her sister returned to Bacalar by bus, and Lisa and I continued on to Campeche. It was a bucket list check off for us. A lovely full moon followed us to this colonial Gulf Coast city.

Gate to Old Town.
Our splurge hotel in a renovated hacienda.

We are actually getting quite good at dropping everything and taking off. It’s a different way of traveling, no plans, just throw everything in a suitcase and go. We’re managing to fit a lot into two weeks. There is definitely more to come.

DOS TORTAS

My rendition of the roof-top pool.

No One Would Believe This Week

1 Nov

A few days ago, I shared on FB a video of the Mexican voladores or ceremonial “flyers.” I reminisced of the first time I saw this mesmerizing performance in the mountains of Puebla in central Mexico. It is traditionally performed to bring the rain or ask the gods for anything the village needs. Today, it is tourist entertainment all over Mexico. Pass the hat.

https://share.google/yUG70EmZ9PveNGVHV

Going to Cuetzala, where the tradition originated, was an adventure in itself. Hours on a chicken bus climbing through high, coffee-producing mountains where the locals drank instant Nescafe.

Coffee drying on the roof circa 1973

University students were invited by the local priest to teach English to children in exchange for a cot and a hot.

Lovely old cemetery.
Traditional garb outside the cathedral. People did NOT like their pictures taken.
The Sunday market with locals mixing with outsiders.

One day our little friend group walked to a nearby waterfall. The instructions were to follow “that” path. 👈

Off on an adventure.
We could hear it before we could see it.
Off came the clothes. If there’s water, I’m in it.

My brother read my FB post after I expressed a long-held desire to return to Cuetzala and commented

“You have the time.
You have the means.
Lisa would be up for it.
Go!”

It is so easy to look at someone else’s life and make assumptions. I admit our life looks pretty sweet. I had to laugh at his cavalier instructions as this week was exceptionally insane.

We got solar hooked up, yeah! (After a week of people tromping about).

A tree fell on electrical wires leaving my MIL without electricity for five days. She hadn’t yet been added to our solar system.

Our son in Austin fell and broke  his collarbone.

He is being cared for by family. Trip to Austin averted.

Stella got into it with a neighbor dog and had to go to the vet.

Poor baby. She likely instigated the encounter.
She refuses to say what happened but there were a lot of bloody pawprints.

We were leaving on Thursday to visit Merida for Day of the Dead (DOTD) when our house sitter was picked up by immigration (another story entirely).

Car insurance – we had to renew for one car and discovered we had lapsed for the other. It was a stressful ordeal of multiple phone calls over several days in Spanish even though they say someone speaks English. 

It is not easy to pick up and go, something we didn’t foresee when moving here. No complaints, it just is what it is.

We will get away from hearth and home and DOGS and hopefully get  some great DOTD photos. Until then.

DOS TORTAS

Emilie Vardaman

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