On my recent travels to California from our home in Bacalar Mexico, I had a layover in Mexico City. It’s been many years since I visited one of the world’s largest cities. I stayed in a small hostel near the airport having an early morning flight the following day. I had done my research on what to do nearby with an afternoon in this city known for museums, mercados and amistad (friendship). The Frieda Kalo Museum was a taxi drive away, so off I went on a Torta adventure.
I was surprised to see so many people had the same idea on a gray, cool, weekday afternoon. After a thirty minute wait, listening to all the different languages spoken around me, I entered the great blue wall that housed the artist’s compound.
Waiting in line.
Large paper mâché figures welcomed all guests.
Welcome from overhead.
I was immediately transfixed by the large garden at the center. Her presence was there. I could imagine her sitting peacefully with the plants, fountains and sky.
Garden paths.
Entrance to the house and private antiquities collection.
Walking through the house I was struck by her work. I believe that she was one of the most self-assured women in history. She put herself out there in photography and paint and really didn’t seem to care what others thought of her work. After a debilitating accident in her youth, her art was an expression of both pain and her unique view of life.
I was transfixed by her use of color.
As I walked through the house, I could feel the presence of many historical figures that had once graced the dinner table.
A colorful stove to prepare the meals.
Fragrant aromas of traditional dishes filled my imagination.
Seeing her art studio brought tears to my eyes.
Painting from pain.
The small bedroom with mirror affixed to the ceiling allowed her to paint self-portraits lying on her back.
Her funeral urn was at the foot of the bed.
The sky opened as I was preparing to leave the museum. A cold rain did not stop me and I set off to visit the mercado of Coyoacán. To be continued…DOS TORTAS
the adventures of dos tortas 
This was una torta adventure since I was not there.
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Miss you my Torta.
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I simply love your mind, and ability and this blog!
Teresa
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I am loving this mind more as I age. Didn’t used to appreciate it. Frieda inspires.
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That is my favorite museum in the world (of what I have seen to date). Whenever we go to Mexico we go there (including on layover in-between planes). It is a spiritual place.
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You are so right. It was much more than a sterile museum.
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So jealous you got to see this, it is one of my Mexico goals. So very inspiring, to see her home, gardens and studio.
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I’m so glad I made the effort to get there. It was late and I was afraid it would close. I would definitely go back. Rain made it difficult to see the rest.
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Thanks for the
tour, Alex, you’ve certainly whet our appetite to visit Frieda the first chance we have. Cheers!
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There are buses to Mexico City from PV. What an adventure Bruce and Mary!
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Oh, what a wonderful layover! Mexico City is such a fabulous place, and if I get there again, I’ll definitely visit Frida.
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I would love to spend some time visiting the museums of Mexico City. There are so many.
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Oh Alex, I can feel what you felt there at the museum – the colors, the history, the courage, strength, pain and amazing creative expression – and of course the smells of the colorful kitchen! I am getting more excited about my idea to go to Puebla in a month or so from seeing this! Going to look into what I need to do to get my passport. You need one now to go to Mexico, right? Last time I was there, I was fourteen and you didn’t need one.
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Yes, must have a passport. You can easily spend the weekend in DF from Puebla.
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I luv Freida! What a cool museum. Have a great trip
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You figured out how to post! Am enjoying Northern Cali. It certainly is a different life in the U.S.. Nice for a visit. I miss home.
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